Cel codes p0410 p1411

Hi guys, im new to this forum, i bought my 2000 c2 6spd about two months ago. I just got my ecu tuned by evoms, which included among other things the turn off of the secondary air injection sistem, after i deleted it and ran for about 100miles i got a p0410 and p1411 bank 1 and 2 below limit, I talked to evoms and Todd assured me that he turned it off, Please help, thanks

Pulled into the gas station this afternoon to fill up. Upon filling the car refused to start but cranked fine. Having just done intercoolers I thought perhaps I'd popped a hose off. I pulled the electrical connector off the MAF and tugged the intercooler hoses which all felt secure. Turned the key and it fired right up, I figured the MAF might also be dead. Drove the car home, shut it off, plugged in the MAF and it started fine! Puzzled I shut it off and tried again, no start. I pulled the MAF connector again and it refused to start. Rolled it up to the garage and tried again, fired right up. WTF?! I haven't got a laptop with Durametric handy but am going to work on it, what should I be looking for other than codes? Does the ECU track fuel pressure? I've got a spare MAF but after it not starting with the existing one unplugged I'm not sure that's the issue. Reading John's issues with his pump has me wondering if my pump has decided to take a hike too. Summary: cranks but doesn't start intermittently MAF plugged or unplugged. Hasn't ever set a CEL in the past.

One thing you can check, and it's fairly easy, is the fuel pump lines in the tank, otherwise known as the "Octopus". I seem to recall some people having issues with the stock fuel pump hoses "splitting" in the tank. The factory hoses "split", and leak in the tank, losing pressure and volume. Just pop the cover off and take a look inside. Better to take it out and inspect it anyway. Even if you have to pop it out, not too bad.

First pic of first post. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html

Naturally I have returned home and the car starts as if nothing has happened, MAF plugged in or not. I can hear the pump priming with a slight touch of groan that seems to come from someplace other than under the plastic cover. There's some hot glue on the retaining ring that's been cut so I think someone has been in there at least once - not me. Hard to troubleshoot this if it refuses to act up and knowing my luck it will fail again in bumper to bumper on a two lane road I have to take Pulling the assembly out for inspection seems wise to me, I'm going to hold off on swapping in the MAF for now. Irish also told me to check the battery cables and that seems a prudent thing to do but not tonight! Car has been rock solid so this is annoying when it's so close to getting the fuel system seriously upgraded with SRM parts and pumps. Appreciate the response!

have you checked the fuses? it looks like fuel to me. if the car cranks, and wont start, spark/fuel. you may have some shortage.

Quotes source post: 4396729

Quote: If the MAF has a failure mode that will prevent the engine from starting I've never come across it in all the posts. 'course, there is always a first time. But what I have gathered is while a bad MAF may cause the the engine to run poorly it won't cause the engine to not run at all. My WAG is there are two possible explanations. The first is an intermittent fuel supply problem. The pump and hoses are probably fine. The fuel pump relay could be marginal. You can throw a new relay at the behavior if you want. Wouldn't hurt to check the electrical lines at the fuel pump to make sure all are secure in their connections and all the connections are ok. The other possible explanation is the crankshaft position sensor is acting up. If this acts up and generates no signal the ECU will not know the position of the pistons and will not trigger fuel or spark. The engine cranks just fine but it won't so much as try to fire and run. Based on my second hand experience neither the relay or the crankshaft position sensor will register any OBD2 fault codes. I'm not sure there are any other codes, proprietary codes that you might get with the Durametric.

One thing to consider is the check valve on fuel line that keeps pressure in place. As the cars again this part tends to fail. When cold, car will start but once full warmed, if left alone for some time (to allow fuel to drain in the tank) All you get is crank but no start. Next time crank for a good 10 sec. Stop, try again and if it starts then, you found your problem. Just a thought though, and good luck

Didn't dare drive it today for fear it would die in bad traffic so no news. Good thing too, got rear ended and shoved into another car coming home today in my daily. Dodged a bullet! I'll tinker with this more when I get home, it's not a fuse though. Could be a check valve although I keyed the pump to prime and cranked a good bit. Next time it refuses I'll be listening to the pump for sure!

my first thought/instinct mirrors ttboost. fuel pump heading south. had similar symptoms then, zip. i'd eliminate the maf for now as even causal.

Fired up fine tonight, my spidey sense says it will have issues when warm. IF I get up early enough I might drive it to work and see. Otherwise it'll be the weekend before I can do much I think. If it's the pump I just need it to make it to NJ in a few weeks lol

try to warm the car all the way, go around the block....do not turn it off, let it reach full temp. let it idle for 5min more, shut the car down wait 1 min , turn it back on, see if its starts. maybe coolant temp sensor?

pump doesn't give "much" warning. maybe one or two false start/stalls then gives up the ghost. if it's a split line then perhaps even less or wont start at all.

Fired it up tonight, cranked and started perfectly! Warmed it, free revved it, running great! Shut it off - no start! Pump appears to prime but perhaps a slight groan at the end which is consistent, need to listen to another car to compare. Waited a bit and primed it multiple times then cranked - fired up! Revved and ran fine. Shut down and had issues starting but got it running, died at idle and refused to start. Betting if I wait it'll fire up again. I expect I'll be trying to get a Durametric on it soon. I also expect I'll be popping open the tank to have a peek. What do I need in the way of gauge and fittings to check fuel pressure at the fuel filter?

when my two pumps failed on 2 separate cars. it would start, idle. no throttle, would die. then work intermittently, but you knew a flatbed was in the immediate future. 2nd one fuel line split. smell of fuel. no idle, nothing. nothing i could help w mechanical as i just had new ones put in and i wasn't standing there as i try to do.

How many miles on the car?

Quotes source post: 4397664

Quote: Durametric probably won't help. I doubt there's any OBD2 error code to be had. 'course, you are welcome to try the Durametric. The symptoms point to either an intermittently bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pump relay. When the fuel pump quit on my Boxster I borrowed the tech's bypass test relay and eliminated the relay in the car. At the shop then the tech connected 12V power directly to the pump to confirm it had power and to confirm the pump didn't run. However, the pump just up and quit. It reads like the pump in your car is well, failing intermittently, after it gets warm. You can test the fuel pressure but you'll probably find it good when the pump runs and non-existent when the pump doesn't run. If you private email me with an email address that will accept a 293KB PDF I'll send you same that details 996 Turbo fuel pressure testing.

Car has over 60K, honestly as seldom as I see the damn odo I'm not sure! It's not a Spring chicken but it's been solid as a rock under my ownership so far and I've had it for years.

In addition to the possible FP, Free maintenance: 1. I would pull out all fuses, clean them up and reinsert. 2. I understand it cranks, but I would also check the clutch switch. No harm in cleaning this up. Or, when it won't catch, try depressing the clutch and try again. Again, free and quick diagnosis.

Auxiliary parts never last. I have replaced my AOS, Alternator and water pump at 60k. In planning on replacing the FP at 70-75k miles. Another free mtce I would do is to add injector cleaner. I have used techron 1 tank-full (sometimes 2) before my oil changes. Again, this is free stuff and not a lot to lose. Lastly, I am assuming your battery is at >90% cranking capacity. Your issue is one of those hard ones to fix --- I hate intermittent car problems.

I have a fuel pressure test gauge coming although I'll be surprised if the fitting doesn't require an adapter - this is the likely component. I may examine the fuel octopus this weekend. This isn't an injector or battery level issue. It's possible I got a bad tank of gas since this occurred just after a fill up but I'm doubting that too. Clutch switch isn't the issue - motor spins over fine and it's not a multi-switch.

I would agree that the likely culprit is FP (see my first/2nd comment). My other recommendations were just quick and almost free checks before more involved procedures. Sorry to have confused you.

died at idle? def fuel problem. maybe you out of gas..

Quotes source post: 4398710

Quote: If I recall correctly, "it starts normally, and sometimes it doesn't". It would have been easier if it died at idle.

Quotes source post: 4398730

Quote: that's one of the peculiarities of our fp's when they are failing. car'll start,, and idle, but any throttle input will cause it to stall out. until it's done for good of course.

When cold it seems to start and run fine! Crank and start back to back over and over no problem. Let it warm up however and it won't restart reliably. It's only died at idle once so far - warmed up. Idles and revs fine when cold, drove it the day before this started and it was fine. Now I don't trust it to go anywhere for fear it'll stall in traffic :-( Really sux because I want more data on the new intercoolers!

Quotes source post: 4398970

Quote: It's your fuel pump. Replace it with a walbro pump.

Can I drop a Walbro right in place of the stock pump without swapping the basket etc.? I'll admit I've not researched the stock fuel system too much since I've got the SRM fuel setup ready to go. However if this is just a pump and it can be swapped easily I'm doing it asap so it'll be reliable getting to Garth Annoying but a cheap fix if that's the case! IMO the symptoms sure match a fuel pump issue...

Quotes source post: 4399085

Quote: Yes it pretty much drops right in

Oh good grief, I thought it was a bit harder than that and that you would need the module! Which Walbro works best, part number anyone? I'm going out to the garage now to pull the octopus to check for damage. Pressure tester just arrived too so if it fits I'll check that first. Figures I had just put a full tank of gas in it too - Grrr! Appreciate the assistance!

Plot thickens! Screwed the OTC 5630 tester onto the valve (it fits!) and keyed the car, no reading. Figuring the stem wasn't pressed down I unscrewed it and pressed the stem down with a screwdriver - nothing. Surely this can't be right, maybe it's finally fully failed? I try starting the car and it fires on the second key. I press valve stem down again and fuel instantly gushes Yah, the pump is toast or maybe a check valve. I'm pulling it in a moment! Glad it's this and not some damn mystery electrical glitch.