Prioritize my track mods

What order would you rank the following mods for improving the track worthiness of my stock Cayman, no S, no PASM . Moving to RA1s Camber adjustments Coilover suspension LSD Brake pads Brake rotors Exhaust X51 swap I am inclined to do nothing to increase power before i have done everything else. Any issues with the Quaiffe in a 5 speed? Is that a stupid question? I searched and could find no other post from myself on this topic. Thanks.

No data, just my opinion (and I do not have much experience): 1 - Camber adjustment 2 - Coilover Suspension 3 - RA1s (aggravates the camber problem if done first) 4 - LSD 5 - Brake Pads (move up if budget limited) 6 - X51 7 - Exhaust 8 - Brake Rotors

Agree. This would be my order.

If you're going 3.8L X51 then you won't use the Quaiffe but a different LSD .

5 speed and 6 speed are different so the Quaife doesn't work in the 5 speed unless they've made one specifically for it is my understanding from a few folks. My order would be: 1) Driver skill training 2) More driver skill training 3) Yet still more driver skill training Then start worrying about mods. I also think the order of the mods depends on what you are trying to achieve and where your car (if anywhere) is falling short on the track today.

1 Brake pads 2 LSD 3 Moving to RA1s 4 Coilover suspension 5 Camber adjustments Then its up to you Exhaust Brake rotors X51 swap

1 - Camber adjustment 2 - Coilover Suspension 3 - Brake Pads 4- RA1s 5 - LSD 6 - Exhaust 7 - X51 8 - Brake Rotors

1. Brake pads AND fluid: immediately (pagid 19 or 29) 2. Moving to RA1s, you are in SF, bring the car to tcdesignfab.com, i dont think there's anyone around here that can set the car up better than he can. and he can give you enough camber to run RA1 with stock suspension. he has weird trick/magic. i dont let anyone else touch my alignment. 3 Camber adjustments and coil over should be done together. by themselves, you are wasting money. 4 LSD : way down the list 5 Exhaust : way down the list, mod 1-4 will make you faster than this mod by a long shot never: Brake rotors: your rotors have way more stopping power than you need. never: X51 swap: just buy a new car, it's cheaper that way. unless you do GTR, but then that's 100k+

I vote pads, rubber, suspension, and lsd .

I'm with will. You need pads and rubber for regular track use, otherwise you will be changing stock pads every month and destroying your expensive PS2's. Tyres are also worth the most in lap times.

once you are on Ra1s, and have sufficient camber, and or coilovers you are gonna need a better seat. whether GT3, or any good shell, it will make the car more fun and easier to driver if you aren't jammed up against the door panel, and hanging on the steering wheel for dearlife. remeber you get a lot of feedback through the seat of your pants, and the better & tighter "connection" the more you know what the car is doing.

exactly how i would have prioritized, with minor differences: 1. cooked brakes and you are done for, regardless of all your other mods. so this is numero uno. but, I would add steel brake hoses. 2. tires decide how late (or deep into the corner) you can brake and how much g force you can take. but, i would buy another set of wheels and go full slicks instead of semi slicks. 3. these totally transform the car! i opted not to have pasm so i could have predictable rebound and damping settings with a set of moton coilovers. 4. lsd - neutral on this. only because i can`t find a trust worthy installer to do it in my part of the world, yet. 5. exhaust - given my cra.p driving skills, the exhaust system upgrade is an absolute waste of moolah. don`t see it improving my time. won`t touch this till i swap engines. i assume you mean not upgrading to 380mm rotors. absolutely - stock rotor heat dissipation rate is enough especially with top racing pads. but, keep a spare set of rotors. in my case, the stoptech rotors cracked after about 10 track days (of 3.5 hours each) or 1,500 track km. not where i come from. a barebone c2s with x51 costs about sgd463,000 or usd305,000. fvd 3.8l with x51 is only about euro24,000 - crumbs compared to upgrading from 987c to 997s

Lots of seat time should be at the top of the list above anything else as the car is quite capable in stock form for a novice. Then it would go: 1) Brake pads and RBF600 fluid (Pagid yellow RS29, RS19) 2) A good alignment (you'll need more negative camber in the front) 3) RA1's or other 4) Keep doing those DE's!! 5) Suspension (coils sucj as H&R or a coil over system) 6) More pads!! 7) A fruity exhats if ya want....an LSD if you think you need it....

OK, K-Mod. Aside from your cupholders, what have you NOT modified? I guess you figured you have nothing left to learn as a driver? The instructors that have riden with me recently claim I am getting damn near the absolute potential of the car in stock trim. All say I am ready for at least better tires /camber. My goal is to improve the potential of the car so I can go around the track more quickly and SAFELY. Right now I am carrying levels of speed through some turns that puts me out there at 10/10ths on my current setup. Thanks for all of your advice. Good stuff.

Physical mods: Camber, pads, and RA/1s - hands down.

Well...I have the Pagid Oranges...from you! My last three days out have not left me with time to swap in the pads, though. I am back at Thunderhill next Friday and I am going to put them in this weekend to be ready. I will be running on my 18 inch "track wheels" for the first time. They came with a new set of PS2s, so it looks like I will be running them down (4th set) before I look for RA1s. So I will only be changing one variable at a time.

Right on - for me the journey and feeling the differences is half the fun, so take it one change at a time. I mention alignment because: 1) Factory alignments are unusually crappy - many times quite a bit off spec. 2) Factory alignments are also very conservative with too much positive camber up front whcih equals high degree of understeer and high tire wear rates up front. Oh and pads........had a Cayman S customer with 800 miles on his croc......wore the soft stock pads completely out in 350 miles of a 2 day track event.

i assume you mean not upgrading to 380mm rotors. absolutely - stock rotor heat dissipation rate is enough especially with top racing pads. but, keep a spare set of rotors. in my case, the stoptech rotors cracked after about 10 track days (of 3.5 hours each) or 1,500 track km. __________________ no need to upgrade calipers or rotor size. keep spares, hahahaha, i bought 12 sets of front 9 set of rear rotors at one time. yes, i eat them for breakfast.

When the stock 'holey rotors' wear out - DEFINITELY replace then with slotted rotors. Holes breed cracks and their time has long passed..........when was the last time you saw a top race series use cast hole rotors? Slotted or 'chevroned' patterned rotors are the way to go at replacement time!

i know. you use them as coasters for your oversized beer mugs :cheers: it takes only about 4 days to have them shipped to singapore from my new jersey supplier, so i just keep 3 sets -track, street, spare- at any one time. i never use cross-drilled rotors for track ever. so the ones on my cs will be my first set. will junk them once i see the 1st sign of hair-line cracks. let`s see how tough they are. the agonizing wait.. dec 07 ....actually, i should be adding one more item to my compulsory mod list - an oil catch tank. probably one from cusco, apexi or hks. don`t want no smokin gayman$

where did you guys find solid, or slotted rotors for cay? i looked very hard for those.

I'd be interested in that, too. I've not seen anyone making those rotors.

Try The Racer's Group -- slotted is a better option than 'holey rotors' when replacement time comes