13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHC2 brake overhaul
Leading reported evidence
Use stoptech
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Leading evidence: 'Use stoptech' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'tsb' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check traffic behind' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Just make sure that your discs/pads/tyres are in decent condition before you do this and double check for traffic behind!
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Suggestion
You may struggle changing the braided hoses without also replacing the hard pipe into the caliper as they get VERY crusty.
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Suggestion
Ended up fitting the braided lines and also replacing the lines back to the cylinder, new Motul fluid and it feels much much better now.
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Hi All.
I have purchased a few bits for my 996, fast road pads and goodridge stainless hoses. The brakes are still a bit lacking, what discs wouod everyone recommend ? I used StopTech on the boxster. They stop really well but rust very badly
Can i just point out .. the brake servos are well known to have water ingress problems on these cars causeing a harder pedal than normal and a not so efficent servo .
There is a modified servo with brackets for these cars .
Most Porsche garages should be able to say if the pedal is hard and that this might be the fault .
No recall or anything .. its been modified on the linkage .. a bellows type tube to stop water ingress .. been like this for a long time .
Probably a tsb but i dont have it .
When servicing i can often feel the pedal is harder than it should be .. if really bad i report it .
After reading the OP's post its just something i thought of and would be worth getting checked out .
Someone like me only has to drive the car to see if its ok or not .
Edit ..
Parts shown here ..
https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=2605&MAK=3&MDL=25&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0
The pedal always feels dead in my 996 jumping from a modern car.
They were known for it from new, but it's part of the amount of feel you get.
What pads did you go for?
I went textar as OE for all round use. Something like ferodo ds2000 are fab for hard use, but feel dead when cold.
I doubt discs would make a noticeable difference unless you are working the car really hard.
Thanks all, my discs are grooved. I ordered a set of Brembo discs through CP4L on sale today. €255 EUR delivered to Dublin. I have a new set of Stoptech pads ehich I will install along eitj a nee set of braided lines, time will tell. I will post the results when the discs arrive .
Mine also felt terrible coming from a more modern 'sports" saloon. Initially did brake pads and discs and it felt better, but not great.
Ended up fitting the braided lines and also replacing the lines back to the cylinder, new Motul fluid and it feels much much better now.
Bedding in the pads correctly is also essential.
You may struggle changing the braided hoses without also replacing the hard pipe into the caliper as they get VERY crusty. They aren't expensive and its well worthwhile doing - in the process of it myself.
Pads and fluid make the biggest difference, particularly on a road car, but do not expect a night and day change.
Upgraded discs, Giro, and braided lines make a difference on track but are barely/not noticeable on the road.
Updated pads, Pagid RS, only come into their own when hot, but at the sacrifice of feeling very wooden and lacking bite when cold.
As others have said the brakes are what they, however they have good stopping power and you will run out of tire grip before brake bite, they just take a little getting used to when compared to modern over servo'd brakes.
I always thought the brakes were a bit lack lustre, yes they are fine when you get going but I would prefer some more servo assist as from cold they are a bit poo. Had same issue with 993 but worse, went to big reds on that and problem solved, the 996 is just about OK,maybe new fluid and fresh pads will help but that's the least of my problems right now..
Dude cooling is important.
one of the cheapest and easiest mods I done was to put the 997 GT3 front and rear brake ducts. motorsport part and on order from the OPC but the best bit is its £20 for the whole SET including vat!!!
I noticed it on both track and fast road going down a long mountain pass.
997 GT3 front and rear brake ducts part numbers:
997 GT3 Front Ducts - £2.18 each plus vat
997.341.483.92
997.341.484.92.
997 Rears - £6.30 each plus vat
997.331.487.92
997.331.488.92
link to my build and how to put on. will fit on any 996.
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=97326&start=0
hope that helps. just ordered some for the blue baron.
Before upgrading the braking system make sure that the pads are bedded in properly, often with light road use the pads get a glaze on them.
Fast open road with no traffic behind just give at least 3x good 80/90mph to 20/30mph applications of hard braking (make sure that you have warmed your brakes up first to prevent disc warp).
The standard brakes should feel much better afterwards.
Try to add a few hard braking sessions into you regular road driving and it will maintain the new feel, it's a sports car so you should be thrashing it anyway!
Just make sure that your discs/pads/tyres are in decent condition before you do this and double check for traffic behind!
If it doesn't improve then maybe the calliper pods are sticking so it could be maintaining the standard setup before upgrading, my C2 is plenty good enough for road use.
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