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YOUR RESEARCHTop Mounts For Use with H&R Coilovers
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Adjust on the car as claimed
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They're a decent option for the price but cant be adjusted on the car as claimed.
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my arms are simply standard ones with fitted Powerflex adjustable camber bushes.
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So I set them roughly on the arms and then use the top mount slots and top mounts to get them set the same.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'm not after crazy camber, so can I use stock (bone stock, not MO30 stock) top mounts with the H&R coilovers.
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So I set them roughly on the arms and then use the top mount slots and top mounts to get them set the same.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have a lot of financial commitments at the moment and I would love to be able to use cheap stock top mounts for a year to enable me to get the coilovers on, and then upgrade to an adjustable set of pillow ball top mounts later on when I can afford to.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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As far as I know there is no difference between M030 and standard top mounts.
One for the suspension experts outs there:
I recently purchased some second hand H&R coilovers for my 996.1. I currently have MO30 suspension, but it's tired and I'm keen on an adjustable set up for tuning the balance and ride of the car (rather than going lower).
My front top mounts are shot.
My question is this:
I'm not after crazy camber, so can I use stock (bone stock, not MO30 stock) top mounts with the H&R coilovers. Is it just for the camber that GT3 style top mounts are used? I have a lot of financial commitments at the moment and I would love to be able to use cheap stock top mounts for a year to enable me to get the coilovers on, and then upgrade to an adjustable set of pillow ball top mounts later on when I can afford to.
Also, is the difference between the stock top mounts and the MO30 top mounts related to the amount of camber they support, or is there more to them?
Stock is fine and should get you to -1 degree unless you're unlucky as I've known one or two cars that could barely get into the minus on stock parts.
-1 degree is fine for road use anyway.
As far as I know there is no difference between M030 and standard top mounts.
I know when you buy Sachs aftermarket ones they only sell the one type.
I'm busy fitting KWs and am using new Sachs standard items. I have adjustable camber bottom arms though if I need to dial more in.
You'll be looking at £40 each for them. I got lucky and found a pair for £45.
2x Lemforder items here for £60 per pair.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-35450...438628&hash=item3f9c884c1d:g:MRwAAOSwo~la9wcS
I cant comment on the usage of stock Top-mounts with coilovers - but Marky911 has covered that anyway.
But can point you at autodoc for the Sachs stock Top Mounts. Mine were less than £45 for the pair.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/1230071
They take a few days to get here (posted from Germany).
As other have said top mounts arent really used to dial in camber on a 996, you need adjustable/two piece lower control arms to do this.
The top mount fixing holes are slotted which allows you to slide the top of the damper inboard to increase camber, but does so at the expensive of track width.
That said I have heard of some achieving -1.5 using the top mounts.
AFIK all Carrera models run the same top mounts, regardless of M030.
GT3 runs a different monoball top mount, no rubber, that also has a motorsport position, this allows the studs to be moved giving the ability to mount in the maximum outboard position giving track width without compromising the amount of camber that can be dialed in which is done via the LCA.
Standard and M030 use same top mounts - only X74 is different. Quite a few websites, including Design911, confuse X74 with M030 and say the M030 top mounts are different, which they are not.
Hi,
my arms are simply standard ones with fitted Powerflex adjustable camber bushes. They're a decent option for the price but cant be adjusted on the car as claimed. So I set them roughly on the arms and then use the top mount slots and top mounts to get them set the same.
Scroll down this page of my thread for more details.
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=118164&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
The proper solution is of course whole arms, which Craig (also on here) has gone with. He has the Elephant racing arms at about £700 per pair but he now wants less camber than they can give, which seems to be -2 degrees minimum.
He's going to try the arms RPM now offer at about £500 per pair. These are more like factory GT3 items in that you shim them up to get the camber, so can run pretty much zero to -3 or degrees.
Theres no cheap way of doing it, thats for sure.
Evening Mark, hope you're well ?
Not sure why anyone would go Elephant Racing arms, then try the RPMT items. Why not just buy the factory items to start with ? They allow sensible amounts of camber (ie stock) and once shimmed (though they have their limits) allow up to 3-3.5 degrees if the top mounts are reversed. Or are we suggesting that running standard top mounts with Motorsport arms leads to excessive camber ?
Evenin' Henry, all good thanks, likewise, I hope you're well.
The Elephant racing arms appealed more due to their design. They're rose jointed so you just crack the lock nut off and adjust. They are obviously track focussed though (no sh*t Sherlock
) so now the least Craig can get is -2 degrees which he feels is a tad extreme for pure road use.
So yep as you say, standard top mounts with adj. camber arms equals too much camber. Whether that's the case with the GT3 arms I'm not sure?
Im also not sure how much the genuine Porsche GT3 arms are compared to the RPM items but are they fully serviceable for when a ball joint wears out?
That's the main reason for going with the likes of Elephant, RSS or RPM. Big initial outlay but fully rebuildable after that.
Sorry for veering off topic slightly Martin. :thumb:
On the Porsche LCA's the ball joints and centre pucks are not rebuildable, aftermarket solutions exist for the pucks but I am not sure on the BJ's. - I run the Cup items where the chassis end is monoball and as such the bearings are replaceable, GT3 runs rubber where the whole end needs to be replaced.
I can't remember the cost, but it was easy watering!
Setup wise, with cup LCA's, 10mm of shim, GT3 top mounts fully outboard in motorsport orintation, CG gave me -3.1.
Thanks for all the information guys, it's very much appreciated. Thanks in particular to Fastlane for the information on the nature of MO30 top mounts.
What's different about X74 mounts?
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