Hi all! I’m going to purchase an 07 CS this week but am worried about scraping entering and exiting my garage. I’m in Philadelphia so my driveway is basically a double sidewalk with a crazy steep angle. My current 08 r32 makes it in by inches below and on each side. I think stock, the 987 is 1.3 inches lower. The CS is a longer car, but it has a shorter wheel base. Here is a picture of what I’m working with. The last picture was me trying to simulate an inch and a quarter lower on my current car. It would just barely hit every time. I basically have to do a 3 point turn on the incline every time. It usually gets on 3 wheels. The street just fits a card width down it with parking in the other side. It’s a whole thing… would I be better or worse off turning the bottom curve into a straight ramp? Or would it make it worse? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Great pictures, but immediately reminds me how different my day-to-day experience is in more ways than I might consider.
My garage is almost a ¼mile from the county road out front. So it would be highly unlikely anyone else's vehicle would be anywhere near my entrance/exit of the barn. (garage to city folk)
What IS in common is that I too have a pretty steep incline to get into the building. And long too. But scraping isn't the issue but rather momentum is. If I were to stop on the incline I would have to backup and try again, for lack of traction.
(gravel)
I don't think you will have a problem as long as your new
Porsche
is oem height. But pictures sometimes don't do inclines justice.
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I installed a Toth front splitter and now I have issues too… I have a narrow street like yours (lake road) and I have to drive out on 6ft boards extending straight out…that won’t work for you tho… when I come home it’s at an angle one wheel up and then slight turn so the other can climb…. If I were you I’d just lay boards on the driveway to raise up your car … the problem, the distance from the front end to the front of the wheel is pretty long…. Thoughts?
like he said ^ if it’s oem height then you should be okay.. but again it’s that distance from the front to the front of the tire, you need to get something to raise the tire before the bumper gets to the high point… I vote long boards laying flat
OP most of what touches the occasional driveway up under there is sacrificial plastic. It wouldn’t be too difficult to replace and refresh if req’d say for resale. Hard to tell from pictures but man is that a tight drive!
Get with your local concrete company and get the apron and steel access hatch redone to a gentler slope....
My drive apron is more shallow than you show in the pics and my 987 will scrape on occasion. Especially if I have a passenger when pulling in. It is the soft rubber air deflectors that rub the concrete.
There were appropriate homes for sale with such poorly designed driveways I rejected them immediately. Even so I have to back out very slowly, thanks cul-de-sac. Anyhow, I have seen various products like these, I'm not sure how well they work, this one looks labor intensive, I've seen products ready to go but they would work better if the driveway was skirted by a concrete company specifically to accept the manufactured contours of a gutter., mine would already accept that variant, again this looks like a PIA but maybe workable in your case?
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https://curbramp.us/shop-driveway-ramps/
The first snow plow (he's in Philly) that went through would curl that up and toss it on the sidewalk. I was thinking perhaps backing it in.. but that might actually be worse. His situation is made even more difficult by the street being sloped uphill (as we're facing it..) meaning a complex equation to figure out. I think I'd be trying it with some model 987's and some blocks of wood to model the driveway to see what might work best. The 987 overhang is less in the rear, but that might just mean the nose would be scraping along the street as the rear climbed up the ramp.
I think I'd keep the motorcycle in that garage and look for another garage space for rent in the neighborhood..
That's an easy one, no driving in salt and sliding texters, galvanized or not salt is the enemy of every car, no plowing considerations. Nothing like a winter beater with good heat and at minimum front wheel drive.
Thanks for all the suggestions! I agree the most practical way at this point is to make a deal where I can take the car home for the day and make sure it works. My other idea is to level the slope using plywood and see if that works on its own. Then I could repave. I’m not an engineer and agree the math would be a lot to figure out!! It also looks like I might be headed toward a 996. The wife has made a pretty good argument about back seats (dogs and kids soon). It’s a pretty far cry from the motorcycles I’m replacing, so I can deal with some compromise! I love the character of the 996, but will lose the precision and feel of the 987. Happy either way though! Lol as long as I don’t have to street park either…
