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YOUR RESEARCHMy 944 Cabriolet
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Reported cause · Original poster
The MAP problem was due to being housed in the Motronic enclosure and Peep using a new hose which has a slightly larger iD, I opened it up and replaced it with some old vac hose i had lying around
Leading evidence: 'due' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'due' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust rear torsion bars ride adjustment' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Clean welded corroded sections, machined, new valve guides and seals
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Head is back from the re-conditioners, Cleaned, welded corroded sections, machined, new valve guides and seals,
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Speaker baseplate with captive nuts were fixed to the rear quarter trim panels to achieve better mid bass, I also disconnected the rear tweeters
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have Wednesday off work, so I got the car up on ramps, removed the exhaust and welded in a bung for the O2 sensor (required for the VEMS), refitted exhaust, fitted new AC drier, and line from compressor to condensor, Had to remove sheared off bolt remains in AC compressor,
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Although Peeps wiring adapters are well made and function perfectly well, I couldn't help myself and fitted the new connectors directly onto the old loom
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Suggestion · Original poster
Quick update, VEMS is progressing well, a few issues, oscillating when accelerating from low RPM and exhaust popping on decel between 2000 and 1000 RPM, I think due to injectors coming back on in time for idle, funny how it didn't do it with Motronic and I didn't notice it until the other day, I have also noticed the exhaust note is deeper, I have checked (quickly) for leaks, none that I can find, maybe a baffle has come loose, but there are no rattles,
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Suggestion
Yes, you are probably right Peter...luckily my brother's friend is a tuner and I will probably end up doing a couple of dyno runs with him to give it a final check over.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Peeps harnesses are good, I gave a tug on the wires and one came loose, best to check, the TPS sensor was wired back to front (or the program was configured wrong) I solved by repostioning the pins but can be programmed in the config file,
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Suggestion · Original poster
3rd and final run was a mixture of traffic and mechanical problems which culminating on my engine letting go in a ploom of smoke/steam , with both coolant and oil pissing out, after getting a lift back to the pits on the back of a tilt tray I was left to come to terms with how the day was going pear shaped, another racer (Phillip and his son Edan) came to see the aftermath, Phillip kindly rang his mechanic (Bill , Quakers hill)and gave up his appointment so I could get my car transported directly to Bill, Bill set to work that evening on it and sent a text through later that cylinders 2 &3 were full of coolant, Head gasket failure was suspected, that diagnosis was right as it turned out to
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due
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
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Reported fixes
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Reported cause · Original poster
The MAP problem was due to being housed in the Motronic enclosure and Peep using a new hose which has a slightly larger iD, I opened it up and replaced it with some old vac hose i had lying around
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Suspected cause · Original poster
3rd and final run was a mixture of traffic and mechanical problems which culminating on my engine letting go in a ploom of smoke/steam , with both coolant and oil pissing out, after getting a lift back to the pits on the back of a tilt tray I was left to come to terms with how the day was going pear shaped, another racer (Phillip and his son Edan) came to see the aftermath, Phillip kindly rang his mechanic (Bill , Quakers hill)and gave up his appointment so I could get my car transported directly to Bill, Bill set to work that evening on it and sent a text through later that cylinders 2 &3 were full of coolant, Head gasket failure was suspected, that diagnosis was right as it turned out to be the original head gasket and after 25+ years had corroded quite badly (as can be seen in the photo), a corse of action was drawn up which included, new belts, rollers, water pump, front seals, ther
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
102 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Porsche Forum Australia: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
The voltage drop problem came back, so this time I fixed it by drilling into the connection (and copper wire inside the connector) and soldering it up
Hi all,
first off, I'm not quick at typing but will try and update regularly, I'm going to figure out the photos soon,
My father bought an 89 944 cab (110,000 miles) in 1997 for £11,000, I actually dropped him off to pick it up, over the years he used it regularly to and from work, a 200mile round trip, in around 2002 he had to fit a replacement engine, he sourced a (supposedly) 40,000 mile good engine, that engine lasted until 2014 when too much piston slap developed, that's when it got its present power plant, now my dad is a fastidious owner, always serviced, milage cataloged, bills etc, what killed two engines then, I believe it was the 5w-40 fad of the 90's and naughties, she now runs Penrite HPR30,
On my numerous trips to the UK we regularly track day at Brands hatch being our favourite, (Paddock hill bend is worth the entry fee alone,) When we moved there for a 2 1/2 year period from 2012 to 2015 I used the car as my daily driver for a year, it was then that my dad gifted me the car as we were getting his long term (20+ years) TR4 project finished,
Scoot forward to Oct 2016, when she arrived in Aus, after a short while I realised AC is a must, which brings me to what this thread is about,
I thought I'd catalogue what I'm doing and how I'm doing it,
AC is complex, major bits, Dash out HVAC blower box change (thanks to Russ, who was great in dealing with a dodgy courior) , Alternator bracket (thanks Timm) and condenser, HVAC control, Condenser ( fabricate Parallel flow) Pipe and hoses, there are so many little bits which need to be done to be right, Like the alternator cooling cowl which needs to be changed,
A few months ago I sold my66 Beetle, for $12,500, so I went on a spending spree, Including
Full service with belts, pump etc (as needed)
VEMS with Coil on plug, Bluetooth all set up and plug and play,
17" cup II wheels, Federal semi slick sticky rubber
Bilstein B6 with Bilstein rear coil over kit, 145 lb springs,
Bilstein B6 strut inserts with H&R lowered progressive springs, 3/4" aluminium coil lift
Becker Indianapolis radio with Bluetooth
Leather seat covers from Lseat
Rear seat covers from Only944
Oh and I'm going to participate in the PCNSW series next year
I'm still waiting for the majority of the stuff, But I am keeping the car on the road throughout this process as I enjoy driving it too much
Getting the power(?) down at Brands Hatch
Dad's Triumph TR4
My old VeeDub
-Cup2 wheels with Federal 595RS-RR, 215/50R17 Front, 235/45R17 Rears
Who says Porsches aren't practical
Nice bit of family history and back story there. Good luck and sounds like you have a bit of a project there...... as always pics make it - try one of the third party photo hosting sites.
Looks great in your profile picture! Look forward to seeing more.
if you are only in Canterbury we will have to meet up at some point and get some Ying Yang shots of the cabs.
looling forward to hearing more about your project too!
Thanks, I'm trying to sort the pics out, Uploaded a load to photobucket, just trying to edit my post with them in
Sounds great, however a bit of a drive as I'm in Canterbury NSW, lol
Haven't received it yet, should be here next week, I'm really looking forward to it, I have a few mods planned, Sequential injecting, type 3 Bosch injectors
Update on yesterday,
I have Wednesday off work, so I got the car up on ramps, removed the exhaust and welded in a bung for the O2 sensor (required for the VEMS), refitted exhaust, fitted new AC drier, and line from compressor to condensor, Had to remove sheared off bolt remains in AC compressor,
Didn't take any photos but now I've got this going I'm going to have to remember to take them as I go along
I ordered 4sq ft of leather when I ordered my seat covers, Here's my first re-cover job
Here's the well worn old cover
Porsche script inlay on lid, Black vinyl on base
Here's the Lseat seat cover, 100% leather, including the side and back panels, colour is not perfect but close enough, looking for a weekend free to fit them,
They're not as yellow as the picture makes out,
Here's the universal fit parallel flow condenser made to fit, getting to grips with ally MIG welding,
Just waiting on the final hose which should be here on Frday, then bypass the pressure switch, make sure the compressor clutch kicks in, then off to AutoFrost's for a pressure test and (hopefully) re-gas
An all time classic in AutoFrosts, it was a privilege to see this up and personal, Only a 959 would top this
Steve,
First time I opened your link -
no
Photos
Scond time opened just the
first
photo
Then decided to register and logged in and then I could see
all
the photos from your
first post
but
none
of the photos from your
second post
.
Maybe it just takes time for them to be made available - but don't really know.
JUST REFRESHED THE PAGE AN LO AND BEHOLD YOUR PICS RE THE UPHOLSTERY APPEARED. SEEMS IT JUST TAKES A LITTLE TIME AND/OR PERHAPS A PAGE REFRESH
Keep going its nice to see what you're doing with my old car!
Your first recovering attempt looks brill!
Dad
Got home yesterday to very well wrapped up package from the UK
Final piece of the AC jigsaw
with new pressure switch
Always thought this radio would go well with the oval dash of the 944
Came with a few bits and pieces including the original receipt for £700
Looks like I've got a busy weekend
Sitting in a cafe around the corner from AutoFrost AC having a cappuccino and custard tart, it's a hard life!!, so far she has held up to 200psi of nitrogen and is holding a vacuum, Oil and dye has been added and hopefully in an hour or so I'll have AC
UPDATE,
My car now has AC, I'm so chuffed with myself, it's a real big and at times fiddly job, steep learning curve, new skills learnt (Ally welding) sourcing parts from the US, UK, QLD & NSW,
Total cost is under a grand (not including my labour which was 40+ hrs)
I can't recommend AutoFrosts (milperra) highly enough, Michael knows his stuff and was only to happy to help me in my fabrication of pipes/extensions.
I'm feeling very lucky that nothing went wrong, I feel I should buy a lottery ticket, may go in my nice "cold" cab
Look what else was in AutoFrosts
My threaded tube for my Bilstein strut conversion arrived today,
Ground off the top pressings on the struts (spare pair of 968 struts), removed the innards, deburred, the diameter of the threaded tube is perfect
Waiting for my B6 strut inserts to arrive before I cut the top of the strut to the right size and weld in the threaded tube
i was worried that the threaded tubes would be flimsy but they are nice and solid
The hole on the side is from a previous idea which was shelved but came in real handy when removing the shaft as it allowed the pressure out so I could yank up on the shaft (like a reversible hammer action)
Just an update,
Change of plan for the rear suspension, due to Summitracing taking an age (month+) to send my order, I have changed from supplementary rear coil overs to larger torsion bars on their own, this way is
a lot less hassle, cheaper and neater, I've
taken advantage of the sales in the US and paid a little over $300AU for 26mm (189lb/in) TB's delivered
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12-6569-26
, these should go well with the H&R progressive (reportedly 190-230lb/in) front springs
Here's a thread from TIPEC where UK 944 expert, Jon Mitchell (JMGarage) offers some very sensible advice on suspension
http://tipec.net/_forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14769
Stripped the rear seat, removed cover and packaged them up, being sent to LSeat in the US, if you supply the covers they haven't got pattern for, they produce them and you only pay 50%, the only944 vinyl cover is now being commisioned as a loose fitting cover for when the dog rides in the back,
These clips secure the seat cover to the luggage compartment floor, bloody dog fur everywhere, knew we should have got a poodle!!!
They weren't shy in using the glue, yes, that is a puddle of glue at the bottom
Bloody strong glue too
I guess it's official, my interior is Linen (LEINEN)
Underneath the seat base, seat belt anchor bolt hole and thread to keep cover tight (where your butt goes)
Does anyone else see an elephant with no trunk???
Got to love the Germans use of plywood
I too see the elephant image in the leather image Steve, so you're not alone.
Keep up the progress reports, and I hope soon the rear seat will be sorted (and the dog will have some new places to drop fur!)
Thanks for the nice words, I wouldn't call it a restoration, more like "heavy maintenance"
There's been a bit of a delay in the VEMS, Peeps last bluetooth module was faulty, so he's had to order a new batch, should be here soon,
I'm not going to reveal, but I have a power figure which I think is obtainable and will be well worth it, if achieved
Good, I'm glad I'm not seeing things, I think the dog might have to travel in the boot!!!
Bought a new battery today, $110 inc GST (there are perks to my job), fitted with the new battery bracket (from USA Ebay), was waiting for the Lithium battery from SSB to arrive but they are not expected for another 6months, Would be good to lose 10KG from the back end ( no Kim Kardashian jokes please)
Turns over nice and fast now
Just thought I'd post about the stereo I have installed,
As you know the head unit is a Becker Indianapolis pro with bluetooth
Speakers are
Infinity KAPPA 462.11cfp 4 X 6"
These are powered by an old school Hifonics Eagle amp,
http://amp-performance.de/406-Hifonics-Eagle.html
, mounted on a swing down mechanism by the bonnet pull lever,
Under the glove box is a slimline sub box/amp,
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21448_Focal-BUS-20.html
I'm very pleased with the sound quality and volume especially when you consider the limited space and stealth nature of the install.
Speaker baseplate with captive nuts were fixed to the rear quarter trim panels to achieve better mid bass, I also disconnected the rear tweeters
Following on from my previuos post, one of my Billies arrived on Friday,
Note, was pissed off that I didn't get the gland nut spanner as well, $5US extra on the order, but buy it on it's own, there's $50US postage!!!
this is how it sits inside after I ground off the crimped ends, the insert to the right is in the right position and the pencil mark is where I'll cut,
As the insert is not a snug fit after you clean off the paint and nickel plate, so I decided to drill four holes to plug weld to give extra strength,
The Bilstein gland nut screws 6 turns in total, I subtracted 1 1/2 turns off for compression and torquing, once the height is right, scribe a line on insert
By wrapping tape twice around the threads the old cut off section was a snug fit, I was sure that everything was square to weld
Lined up with scribed marks
Four holes for plug weld
Because I ground off the crimps level with the old struts top plate, I know that that end is square
Jubilee clamp to keep everything lined up
Tacked and trial fitted strut insert to make sure everything lines up
Plug welded, plenty of penetration there!!
My TIG is improving, not as good as my MIG work but practice makes perfect
After a clean up, prepped for primer
Both done, some etch primer, ready for paint, Satin Black or Bilstein yellow????
Nice job. I'll be interested to see if you get her to sit level, after all is done. I installed koni yellows and I'm not perfectly level. It wasn't level with the old, original shocks, but its now a little closer. I will need to adjust the rear torsion bars ride adjustment.
Are you going to have any provision for height adjustment in the front with your new set up?
No Height adjustment, Just the H&R springs which lower approx 30mm and polyurethane spring seats which are 19mm thick, So lowered by 10mm,
I wanted to set the suspension once and then leave alone, otherwise I'd for always be changing the settings,
Is yours lower at the front or rear?
If it's only a little bit, you can use the height adjustment eccentric on the springplate (intended for corner balancing) to get your car level...saves messing about with reindexing your torsion bars.
This wouldn't happen to be the package you're waiting for from Estonia?
I'm really interested in hearing about and seeing more photos of your VEMS setup when it arrives.
So it uses the standard crank and cam sensors?
Are you deleting the AFM and replacing with a MAP?
Great thread BTW!
Yep, that's my kit, really excited to get it up and running,
Deleting the AFM and running a vacuum hose to the VEMS ECU
Coil on plug, Bluetooth
future plans include sequential injector firing of (version 3 Bosch) injectors
So that just requires the installation of a 60-2 wheel behind the front crank pulley?
Will you gut your original AFM for the stealth look or just replace it with a straight tube?
Do you have a VEMS dyno expert in mind to do/check your calibration?
Will you do a before and after fitment dyno run to clearly demonstrate gains?
Sorry about the 20 questions, I'm just interested in this sort of stuff!
Thanks
Peter
Sequential injection is something I'd like mainly to stop the horrible tick tick of the batch firing injectors at idle, if it's too complicated, I might give it a miss
I've got both, I gutted a spare AFM and I've got an aluminium tubing which i welded a boss onto for the air temp sensor
VEMS (from Peep) comes with a basic map for whatever model you've got, but it also has the autotune feature, which is a major reason why I went with VEMS instead of Microsquirt, Aurgtronic etc, Maybe a proper dyno session will get more power/drivability,
I did a dyno run last January, which is posted on another thread, I'll go back to the same place
Seems like there are a few aussie guys making the jump to VEMS. I'm very interested to hear how you all progress. I wish there was an aussie dyno tuner for those less inclined to self tune though.
Excellent!
I have complete confidence in you and look forward to your future posts!
I get the impression that Peeps gets it pretty close out of the box but realise that the whole purpose of going standalone is to optimise to one's particular circumstances. No doubt the ecu's "self tune" abilities, peer reviews from the user forum and your own efforts go a long way but I think spending at least some time on a dyno with a trusted tuner is inevitable.
Are you going full sequential, COP and knock control?
Yes, you are probably right Peter...luckily my brother's friend is a tuner and I will probably end up doing a couple of dyno runs with him to give it a final check over. Justin, after we've got mine mine working well, I'd be up for helping you with yours should you take the plunge.
My setup will be a little different to 944s2Cab's due to being 8v turbo. I'll have the same knock control, as I believe that is a function of all VEMS units. I won't go sequential injection though, but will have much larger injectors as I'm planning to be able to go flex fuel e85 later on down the track. COP doesn't really fit on 8v cars, so I'll be going wasted spark with a remote coilpack...I think Peep used a landrover unit for this. I'll also have VEMS providing electronic boost control.
Which battery did you end up going for? I have seen a few posts suggesting different batteries, but I also have a slightly slower turnover than I would like, so would be great to hear what you went with!
Pictures for the sound system upgrade don’t seem to be working but I would love to see more of that too
Amazing job so far ??
Thanks for the heads up, one day I'll get this photo posting right!!
The battery was the larger of the two which will fit our cars, the other one was the SS55, this one was only 1.5kg heavier,
I might take you up on your offer Timm, though it will likely be a fair way down the road.
It will be very interesting to see the gains on your 8v Turbo. Are you intending to do a before/after dyno comparison with the same setup? Are you expecting the driveability to improve substantially with the modern ECU control?
Yep, will definitely be doing before and after dynos. I'm expecting a large drive ability improvement for sure, especially once it's all tuned perfectly to suit my engine. I should also get some significant power gains once I get a better turbo and bigger injectors to support more boost.
Will be good to compare notes with you Steve once you've got yours up and running.
Yeah, Hopefully mine will arrive before Xmas, that'll give me a few days to install, then rear wheel bearing, suspension, brakes etc, looks like I'll be busy
Right, VEMS VEMS VEMS, Where do I start, first off, I've takn no photos to speak of, too busy focused on getting it done,
Got everything fitted within two hours but I'd already spent some time making up the intake with temp. bung, O2 bung in exhaust,
First turn of the key , no go, with Peep by my side via Facebook messages, Peep sent me a different config file, now it starts runs but doesn't idle, after 6 days of a little improvement here, a setback there I was seriously disheartened by it all and was thinking of sending it back (so pleased I didn't), turns out that it wasn't autotuning correctly certain cells due to a setting, once that was sorted, it is now mostly tuned and WOW!!!
A LOT more peppy, as soon as you put your foot down there's power, Id say at least 230hp, I know it's only my butt dyno, so I'm going to book it into a dyno run just as soon as Peep gives the tune the all clear
Just to make it clear,
THIS IS NOT A PLUG N PLAY system- it takes setting up, tunning, and in my case, fault finding, it has been a drama but well worth it
I'll take some photos once I've finished polishing the kitchen floorboards
Great to hear it's up and running. I will be very interested to see the dyno result. Do you have a 'before' dyno by any chance?
Any more observations re the driveability? How is part throttle response etc?
I'm finding myself having to release the throttle because cars/objects are appearing faster than I thought, initial pickup is like night and day, gone is the second or two of sluggishness, to be replaced with near instantaneious surge in power, makes me want to go out now and go for a spin, if it stays where it is, I'll be happy but I think there are improvements to be had, finner tunning and a rolling road tune will optimize the potential of the system,
The kit which Peep sent over is not without issues (loose vacuum hose inside DME, due to new type of hose fitted), loom adapter issue, but having Peep on hand with his expertise has been invaluable,
Very encouraging!
Cab,
Did you go full stealth by fitting a gutted out AFM or are using a tube bypass?
Was the difficulty with the MAP port vacuum hose in the ECU housing come from reusing the old Motronic case or was it just one of those shit happens things?
How did you find Peep's harness building skills?
Keep up the good work!
I've gone non-stealth, what with coil on plugs really giving the game away,
The MAP problem was due to being housed in the Motronic enclosure and Peep using a new hose which has a slightly larger iD, I opened it up and replaced it with some old vac hose i had lying around
Peeps harnesses are good, I gave a tug on the wires and one came loose, best to check, the TPS sensor was wired back to front (or the program was configured wrong) I solved by repostioning the pins but can be programmed in the config file,
Good thing is Peep is on hand most of the time and responds pretty much always within an hour or so
I was a bit dssapointed as in my naivity I thought I'd install, turn key and drive, it isn't and even without my problems there is steep learning curve
How much time do you think you've invested in the conversion so far?
As long as the improved throttle response makes you forget those few hours of frustration pretty quickly!
I suspect about 15 hours of steep learning curve, I was thinking along the way that it's good that I'm an Electrical Engineer otherwise I'd be F**KED
Yes the performance makes it worthwhile, I've still got to wire up and program the AC idle setting
According to this screenshot at WOT 6K rpm injector duty cycle of 96%
Question for people who know, Does this mean I need bigger injectors? (I think I do)
Would be an indication of increase in power if I've maxed out the stock injectors!!!!
A couple of photos
Air temp sensor (supplied with VEMS kit from Peep)
AFM bypass pipe, (keep natural or paint black?)
not much to see here!!!
Got to paint the covers in their original silver colour
Cam gear cover made from an old dizzy
Added small relay to convert 12v to Ground for AC idle up input, ordered an "on delay" relay to delay the compressor kicking in for a second so the idle has a chance to ramp before compressor load starts, this relay will go between the AC clutch and (stock) wiring connector
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-TIMER-SWITCH-TIME-RELAY-1-TO-150-SEC-KIT-12V-20A-Delay-ON-CAR-DAYLIGHTS/271066143155?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Relay secured (later I glued it on as well)
Your photos aren't working again.
If that injector duty is accurate, and you're not running too rich, then yes you should get bigger ones. Definitely an indicator of a power increase though! Did you happen to do a 'before' dyno?
After I install my VEMS I can give you my rebuilt stock 951 injectors for cheap if you like. They flow a bit more than the S2 injectors. Peep says he's gonna post mine off this week. How long did your postage take?
Postage is a long time compared with USA UK etc. about 3 weeks
I was going to upgrade to a Version III Bosch injector, gives a better atomised pattern instead of the standard stream with Bosch Version II, although some schools of thought say you get more power from liquid petrol entering the combustion chamber as there is more room for air?!?!?
Might take you up on the offer of your injectors though
What injectors are you looking at? if you look at all the online calculators, the 944 injectors are way too small for the HP they deliver
Ah ok, I guess I can wait another 3 weeks
That's an interesting theory...I'd have thought better atomisation is the way to go.
I'm getting these ones:
https://www.brisbanefuelinjection.com.au/products/raceworks-1300cc-length
They fit the stock fuel rail and injector harness...waayyy overkill for my current set up though, but should be future proof for 20ish psi on e85 later on down the track.
Cab,
Does the 96% number ring true?
Since you haven't turboed it or increased the peak revs and only removed the restriction of the AFM surely the duty cycle could only change by a couple of percent over stock?
Could it be that the injector parameters (or fuel pressure) that are entered into the tune are incorrect? It's hard to imagine that Porsche would install injectors with so little headroom.
Do you know the Bosch part number so you could do a check from first principles?
It's all in the log, where I stopped the line (approx 10:14) corresponds to the figures on the left, 5963rpm, lambda .82 ( about AFR 12), pulse width 19.3
Cab,
Was the engine at normal operating temperature at 10:14 and not subject to any warmup enrichment?
Was the engine subject to any transitional enrichment (ie the EFI equivalent to a carburettor's accelerator pump) at 10.14?
Sorry, I'm not confident with reading the data log correctly from the photo.
Do you know what Bosch injectors you are running now? Do you know what your fuel line pressure is too?
Yes, operational temp
I don't think any enrichment was going on
I presume stock 89/90 S2 injectors and stock Fuel rail pressure
If you take an online injector size calculator and punch in the details 210hp, 50 psi fuel pressure, 80% duty, most come back with a size around 320cc/min @3bar, 944S2 injectors are 277cc/min
https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator
Although I'm not questioning Porsche designers or engineers, maybe the AFR was more conservatively set.
I'm only thinking of going to a 320cc/min version 3 Bosch injector
I suppose a dyno will reveal more
P.s My car is a UK model with NO O2 sensor from factory, a purely open loop system, one of the reason for going to VEMS was for a closed loop system
The only other thing that could result in an artificially high duty cycle is if one or more of the injectors are old and partially blocked and this is effecting their actual flow rate.
But looking at your numbers show that a larger set is justified anyway.
Thanks for sharing your findings as you go as I know sfa on this topic but it is something I'm very interested in.
regards
Peter
Now that got me worried (although my dad had them refurbed a few years ago) so I ordered these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Bosch-Fuel-Injector-0280155831-FOR-98-09-VOLVO-2-4-2-5-2-9-L-TURBO-set-of-5/201625035428?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
, they are
Doing my research they should fit but there's only one way to find out
Quick update, VEMS is progressing well, a few issues, oscillating when accelerating from low RPM and exhaust popping on decel between 2000 and 1000 RPM, I think due to injectors coming back on in time for idle, funny how it didn't do it with Motronic and I didn't notice it until the other day, I have also noticed the exhaust note is deeper, I have checked (quickly) for leaks, none that I can find, maybe a baffle has come loose, but there are no rattles,
The COP wiring was bugging me so I made up a solution from Bunnings shelving system
Going to soda blast the rocker covers and paint soon, I hear that Magnesium can be a little tricky, anyone have any stories
Good work Cabs!
Those running issues should be easy to tune out.
Is that "oscillating" actual missing you can distinguish or just gentle lean surge that just goes away once you reach the desired speed? What's your AFR during this gentle acceleration?
I guess there is no real hurry to play with the tune until you get your new injectors installed.
I'll try and get one,
Although Peeps wiring adapters are well made and function perfectly well, I couldn't help myself and fitted the new connectors directly onto the old loom
The oscillating is not a miss but almost like a very mild kangarooing
I have a theory about why, but you're right, no worries until the injectors come (tomorrow, according to AusPost)
Hi people, it's been a while since my last update,
Here's what's been happening
Engine.
New injectors arrived, fitted with the only mods being a washer under each of the fixing points of the fuel rail and elongating the groove, not really noticed any difference apart from the absence a ticking at idle (I really grew to hate that noise)
Side y side
New injectors are high impedance so the resistor pack is no longer needed,
fuel rail clip not seating fully
extended the slot so the rail clips locate properly
Perfect
more tuning and more tuning, I'm sure the neighbours think I'm married to a laptop as whenever I go out the re it is, in the passenger seat, I'd say I'm about 75% there, got a quote for tuning it on a dyno, $1100 but will need to get some basics sorted out before I really consider it, part of me thinks that at the rate I'm learning that I should be able to get near to a dyno tune given enough runs, data logging and tuning
Idle valvecontrol
Ign. timing
Replaced the upper and lower cam chain pads today there was minimal wear on the originals but for peace of mind, while the cam cover was off I gave it a lick of high temp paint, not perfect but better than it was, was thinking of painting the lettering black but found a place which does lettering inserts to fit in the recessed letters,
bottom pad
Not much wear, but for peace of mind
I'm no expert but looks like minimal wear on cam lobe
new pads fitted
After pressurewash
acid etch primer, hopefully will last
Red or black lettering????
Brakes
Last weekend I fitted new rotors, pads, shoes and flushed the system all in preparation for the PCNSW supersprint on 4th march
Run out all with specs
Mounted the fire extinguisher in front of the passengers seat
Didn't want to rush the suspension or worse, run out of time so I'm leaving the front struts, springs, rear dampers and uprated torsion bars for the Wakefield supersprint
The voltage drop problem came back, so this time I fixed it by drilling into the connection (and copper wire inside the connector) and soldering it up
reading from Alternator
Reading to battery
reading to fusebox
Bottom left, to battery,
top left, to fuse box
right, to starter motor and alternater
Check your door switches, oxidised contacts can make the power window relay to arc,
Oh and fitted in a motorkarna day as well
I don't work on Wednesday, It's a day for playing on cars(Don't tell the missus), today I replaced a noisy rear wheel bearing with my homemade puller costing $20, Photos to follow
Hi all, It's been a while since I last posted, so what's been happening?
On the 4th of March I did the supersprint at SMSP on the large Gardiner circuit, First run was with newbies and fun seeking people, nothing much more than a poodle around the track, second run was in my group proper, with 968's, 911's 944's(N/A, turbos and S2) and Boxsters, that was fun, got a bit sideways entering the main straight but managed to keep the power on and corrected the slide, 2nd proper run saw me do a 2:03 which was my quickest for the day (7 seconds quicker than the previous outing),
3rd and final run was a mixture of traffic and mechanical problems which culminating on my engine letting go in a ploom of smoke/steam , with both coolant and oil pissing out, after getting a lift back to the pits on the back of a tilt tray I was left to come to terms with how the day was going pear shaped, another racer (Phillip and his son Edan) came to see the aftermath, Phillip kindly rang his mechanic (Bill , Quakers hill)and gave up his appointment so I could get my car transported directly to Bill, Bill set to work that evening on it and sent a text through later that cylinders 2 &3 were full of coolant, Head gasket failure was suspected, that diagnosis was right as it turned out to be the original head gasket and after 25+ years had corroded quite badly (as can be seen in the photo), a corse of action was drawn up which included, new belts, rollers, water pump, front seals, thermostat, head gasket, the head was sent away and inspected, after cleaning the corrosion was bad enough that the complete face has been welded and machined flat (this process should be completed as I type this) new valve guides and seals will also be fitted along with a new cam chain.
Now after this happened,I was feeling quite low and was thinking of never taking the car on the track again, but where would I get my adrenaline fix from? no other car comes close as far as uniqueness and desireability for the money and karting was thought of (and still is) but I then took a different approach, how can I lessen the chances of this happening again, so I look at my recently installed VEMS system and realised I can alter the redline in regards to coolant temp, I can also use information from oil temp and pressure sensors to alter and even cut out the engine, so I've decided to on that route, to program a limp (back to the pits) mode into VEMS
While the car is at the mechanics, I have recovered my front seats, pretty happy with the results, not perfect but a lot better than before and hopefuly they will shrink a bit once they spend a summer baking in the car, I also mounted a threaded collar into the passengers headrest for a go-pro mount, just heard from LSeat in the USA, they have finished my rear seat cover (after over 3 months) as i suplied the original, I get these at half price $150US, re. the quality, I reckon it is pretty good, however if I was to do it again I would sew up the start of a few of the seams as two came apart while installing, probably my fault, overall I'm happy, they are also 100% leather including the back sections
ready to go with 17" cup2 wheels with Federal 595 rubber
Sorry SMSP
Not a good way to end the day
Original head gasket
Head with corrosion
Bill is a very tidy organised worker
Note the orientation on the paper
Why are these seats so bloody heavy??
1/4" screw for go-pro mount
1/4" coupler and foam repair
Hopefully the crinkles will dissapear
Covers were fitted over the old foam
Finished pair
close up of the quality and texture
Got the dogs seal of approval
Look good fitted
Back seat covers
Here's a few vids of the runs
1st run, 12:20 is sideways moment
2nd run
3rd and final run, at 8:35 the rear end broke away, I thought it could be the tyres overheating , so took it careful on the next right hand corner, seemed fine so carried on giving it the beans until it gave out
Shame about the head gasket Cabs. Probably irrelevant given the age but how many km’s on your engine?
Hopefully will be nice and reliable once you get that batch of work sorted.
Funny how it's always blue!!!
Not sure with this engine as it's the 2nd replacement it's had, the previous 2 were victims of the 5W40 (non-ZDDP) synthetic oil craze of the 90's/early 2000's, but looking at the cylinder bores, I'm hoping around 100K
Head is back from the re-conditioners, Cleaned, welded corroded sections, machined, new valve guides and seals,
Going to work on it tomorrow, make a template for a new AC line, clean up wiring loom on firewall and add new wiring for sequential injection, oil temp and oil pressure sensors,
I really miss driving her but she should be done for next weekend
From this
to this
Ban news, after getting the engine top end assembled, it wouldn't start, compression test showed 2&4 on 220+, but 1&4 on 50 and 30 (respectively),
So got it transported back home, removed the head and discovered very badly scored bores (probably due to broken rings caused by the blown head gasket,
I borrowed an engine hoist off my mechanic and set to removing the engine, after reading heaps, I decided to take it out from above, not too bad and not disturbing the subframe is a bonus
Picking up an engine stand tomorrow
Plan is to strip the block (tomorrow) , have it bored and honed, 104.5 or 105mm forged pistons (depending on scratch depth), possibly upgrade to include piston oil squirters (aka 968)
Assemble with new bearings, seals and gaskets,
Oh and the clutch looks worn!!!!!$$$$$$
I've not taken many photos as I've been preoccupied with getting the work done, here are a few
Engine is dismantled,
Block is at Buchanan's to be bored and honed,
This is what happens when the head gasket was like swiss cheese and not cooling properly,
Got some good news today, Balmain engineering called and the test cut confirms that off the shelf 105mm pistons is all I need,
So my shopping list is
Wossner 105mm forged pistons,
Molnar forged rods
Sachs clutch kit, guide tube, fork bearings
Main, rod and balance shaft bearings
new seals throughout
Cometic 0.030" (stock is 0.040") MLS gasket to raise compression to 11.5:1
clutch hydraulic line
All this to go along with
rebuilt head,
new belts, rollers and water pump
All this work coupled with the planned safety features I'm going to install/program into the VEMS (standalone) ECU should give me a fighting chance of keeping her on the road
Can anyone think of anything else "while I'm in there"
Not looking forward to when the missus reads the bank statements
@MFX
mentioned on his build that he had near current F1 piston design technology available, if you were keen on some extra tech. Probably very light custom pistons could be made up for ??? how much of an extra in your rev band.
it would be interesting to see what kind of cost custom pistons would be.
Sounds like a good list so far. I've got Molnar rods as well, they are quite nice.
Here are some other 'while you are in there' things that I did during my rebuild for you to consider:
ARP headstuds
Weld in gated sump baffle and pickup tube extension (Lindsey racing)
Oil pickup tube reinforcement (I didn't do this, but I regret not doing it as stock tubes have been known to crack)
Oil pump drive gear (check yours to see if the front main seal has worn a groove in it, replace if it has. Same goes for balance shaft collars)
Replace the factory plastic oil pan baffle with a new item as they get extremely brittle after 30+ years
Crank scraper (I got mine from paragon products)
Check out EBS racing for all your general rebuild items...seals, gaskets, bearings, arp headstuds etc. They were by far the cheapest source when I bought all my stuff. Lindsey racing sell convenient rebuild kits that list all the stuff you need, so just go through that list and then go over to EBS racing and buy everything from there to save yourself a couple hundred dollars
https://www.ebsracing.com/
When it comes time for final assembly, I also recommend you buy or borrow the proper Porsche tool to install the rear main seal.
Thanks for the advice,
ARP studs- Do I really need them with no boost?earings, gasket kits clutch parts (no
The baffle looks like a simple design, may pop into Bunnings, I think I'll fabricate the oil pick up reinforcement and extension
Will be taking my oil pump apart to clean so will check for groove then
Any idea how much the plastic baffle costs?
Did you get the metal scraper or the teflon one?
I'll have to bookmark ebsracing, looks pretty cheap, I got the clutch kit from Rockauto US$521 delivered, Molnar rods from Raceeng. US$480 delivered, all the rest, I got from FCP Euro US$602 delivered
| 1x Porsche Short Block Gasket Set (924 944) - Reinz 94410090103 |
| 1x Porsche Main Bearing Set (924 928 944 968) - Glyco 05543009291 |
| 1x Porsche Connecting Rod Bearin...944 924 968) - Glyco 94410314302 |
| 2x Porsche Exhaust Pipe to Manif... (944 968 924) - CRP 94411113501 |
| 2x Porsche Balance Shaft Bearing...8) - Genuine Porsche 94410112502 |
| 1x Porsche Clutch Fork Bearing (944 968) - SKF 39443035365 |
| 1x Audi VW Clutch Release Bearing Guide Tube - Dansk 016141181 |
| 4x Porsche Balance Shaft Bearing...4) - Genuine Porsche 94410112110 |
| 1x LM 48 Installation Paste (50g Tube) - Liqui Moly LM20216 |
| 1x Porsche Clutch Hydraulic Hose (924 944) - FTE 477721189A |
| 9x Porsche Flywheel Bolt (911 924 944) - German 93010220600 |
| 1x Porsche Pilot Bearing (911 924 944) - Fag 93110211102 |
| 9x Porsche Clutch Pressure Plate... 944) - OEM Supplier 90006702002 |
Just CC'd my head chambers and they are
Cylinder no 1 = 39cc
Cylinder no 2 = 38.7cc
Cylinder no 3 = 39cc
Cylinder no 4 = 39.8cc
Question for the people in the know, are these acceptable (variation)
Cheers
No worries.
Yes the ARP's are probably overkill for an N/A.
The baffle was just flat aluminum plate with a regular hinge on it, so yeah would be quite easy to make one yourself.
I can't remember what I paid for the plastic baffle, but I don't think it was very expensive.
I got the metal scraper, it was a reasonably good fit. It's made for stock rods though so has a little more clearance around the molnars.
Did you order some Loctite 574? I didn't see it in your list, it's an anaerobic sealant which you will need for the girdle, oil pump, and balance shaft covers.
Long time since my last post,
I've been going 3 steps forward two steps back
But just to say, I need new injectors, these should do me
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122347767677