Inner CV joint/boot replacement - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Hi everyone! I recently changed my oil and when down there found my cv boots to be getting some dry rot. The car is a 2003 base tiptronic with just under 100k miles and gets driven like it was stolen hahah (no tracking though)! My question is, can I replace the inner boot or joint while the car is on a ramp? I've read through the pelican parts article and done a forum search but can't find out if I need to remove the wheel. I know I don't need to mess with the axle bolt for only the inner CV but I'm not sure if I can do the replacement without needing to jack up the car and remove the wheel. Anyone have any pointers or experience with this? Thanks!

I did all 4 boots without removing the wheels, however, the car was on jack stands and the transmission was out of the car already. But no need to remove the wheels or the axle nut.

Quotes source post: 473580

Awesome, thanks for your answer! I guess what my question really boils down to is if I can do this while there is weight on the tires as I'm trying to use rhino ramps.

I did it with removing wheels and centre axle nuts. If the exhaust isn't completey removed you'll have no chance to get the axles out if the car. I prefered to let the exhaust system where it is for the last 12 years. And that was a good idea.

find the thread on replacing the rear wheel bearings. I puled both my rear axles with the manifolds still on the car. However for the price of new boots, lubricant, bandsa you can buy a set of remanufactured axles ready to pop in (or very close on money).

I bought the boots for 4.5$ each on pelican parts, plus few $ for the clamps, and 4$ of cv grease. It's easy to do, but it takes time because de CV grease is really really sticky. I did it from the inside, you remove the braces, the middle pipes, and disconnect the inner joints from the transmission. Then pop the inside cover (hammer and punch), remove the clip and there you are, both boots can slide out. You might need a puller to pull the CV joint. You'll also need a pair of CV clamp pliers. Way easier than dealings with the axle nuts !

Maybe we do talk about different cars. I talk about a 2003 S MT. Thread owner talks about a 2003 base AT. What do you talk about? Regards Markus

"the middle pipes " Ben did remove part of the exhaust ? In theory you need to flush out all the old grease and replace it. I did this on a bench and over an oil catch bowl intended for a truck. Trying to do that under the car and with axle stands sounds like a HazMat event. And your driveway will never look the same . I know this may seem overkill to some but that is what the manual says is the correct procedure. To remove the clamps ,look at the video below. Hint- don't try to substitute worm-drive hose clamps for the correct oetiker clamps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEQs_XaY9DI The correct pliers are these: KD Tools Oetiker Clamp Pliers #3374 If you use regular bull nose pliers,you may cut the clamp if they are sharp -try a blunt pair? Be very careful to clean off all the grease where the boot slips over the 1/2 shaft and joint. If you are not meticulous about this ,the boot may slip off in use,you will not see it,dirt will get into the joint and you'll be replacing the whole axle shaft. Suggest you drive the car for a while with the splash shields off to verify ?

Quotes source post: 473678

2002 2.7L manual. It's the same on any model 986 and 987 auto and manual. And yes, by mid pipes I mean the center section of the exhaust I wouldn't do it on jack stands, I did it on a lift, it took 4 hours (with draining of the transmission oil), I took my time.

I did this on jackstands and took the axles out. It just seems easier and cleaner that way. I was able to get the axles out without removing the exhaust by jacking up the wheel housing. That gives you enough angle to slide the axle out below the transaxle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk