Two horn beeps = central locking malfunction???

I get two beeps from my car when unlocking it or getting out of it after driving. The lights do not flash when locking or unlocking. How is my Central locking system malfunctioning and why is it different from yesterday or even this morning??? How do I fix it? 03 C4S

You may have something still open. e.g. the centre console compartment or glovebox or the hood may be unlocked. I have a 99 and when the centre console is left open I get a double-beep.

I normally get one beep when my center console is open. It was mysteriously locked today. I did not lock it and I am sure no one touched it...any help?

I just disconnected the car from the battery for 10+ minutes. Normally that resets the computer for any modern car. It seems to have resolved the problem. I will let you all know. Thanks!

Problem is resolved...Man I'm good

Navy, I had a recurring problem with my 03 Boxster with double beeps when all was closed, after the dealer telling me for over 2 years I must not know how to close my compartments they finally found a defective sensor in the glove box. I also had an electrical problem with my alarm system that was finally fixed after 3 years of occassional alarm triggers for no reason, not to mention the radio head needed replacement. I wonder in the MOST system they installed affected other systems as well in 03. Oh well, at least only minor annoyances.

It seems that I have not resolved the issue. In addition to the two beeps, sometimes the passenger window does not dip down when closing the door. It just closes over the weather seal. I know that one beep and two flashing lights means that your car is locked but something is open. This error is a double beep when unlocking the car and when getting out of the car using the door handle to unlock the door rather than the unlock button on the console. Is there any way for me to press the remote in a certain sequence to test or run a diag? I don't have any errors on the system display on my tach so I can't think of what could be wrong. How expencive were your repairs?

Alarm errors can only be read with a PST2, PIWIS tester or the Durametric Software. The first two can reset the alarm errors but the Durametric can not. Find a shop in your area with a PST2 or PIWIS and have them read the alarm fault codes - that will tell you exactly what sensors are "open".

Thank you! I will try it. What says that they won't come back after I reset them? Wouldn't unhoking the battery do the same thing?

You want the shop to tell you what the fault codes/ problem areas are - then fix them and they should not come back.

Navy, my repairs were all covered by warranty.

I faced the same window issue. After a month of "timing" the release of the door handle to properly close/seal the window, I ended up having a faulty micro-switch in the door replaced. The beeps may be notice of said micro-switch failing. Micro switch and labour to remove/replace door panel was $400.

I have an extended warranty, I'm hoping it will all be covered. Thanks!

Didnt you have this same problem on Flat-6? I had the same problem and could not lock my car for about a year and a half because the alarm would go off on its own. Well, magically, it fixed it self and no honking once I lock it.

It doesn't honk when I lock it, doublt honks when I UNLCOCK it. It does fix itself sometimes however its really just chance whether it will work or not. I get a double honk when opening the door from the inside because it unlocks the door and when unlocking the door with the remote. I'm pretty sure i didn't post this on flat-6.

I took the car to the dealer. Luckilly it was malfunctioning when I showed the tech. I left it and when he went to hook up the computer, the door worked fine!!!! However, once he got the door to malfunction again and he hooked up the computer, the computer did not recognize the door was open thereby not sending the signal to drop the window and causing the central alarm malfunction. The door latch needs to be replaced at a cost of $660USD. Go figure, 2 months after the warranty expires too.

Navy c4s The door latch is a cam, there is a micro switch which run on this cam to indicate when the door is fully closed & latched via a notch at this fully closed position. The actuator of the switch is nylon and wears, the latch is a punch out and the edge is rough not polished. A symptom of this is the window not staying down when the door is open, the door handle micro switch lowers the window , but the cars CPU thinks the door is closed and rases the window. The micro is on top of the locking mechanism and held by a circlip , the two wires are easy to see, I drilled into the acctuator .6mm x 4mm hole and cut down a pin which was glued into this hole to extend the actuator by ~2mm. Continuity Measurement from pin8 (common to all switches )& pin 4 (door closed ) I think from memory shows the make/ break when the latch is turned , its obvious once you see it, but its a bastard to get the lock mechanism out. My window now dips and returns properly, but I need to do other door to see if it solves the no locking problem.

Kinda funny you resurrected a 6yr thread with your 1st post Welcome to rennlist!

It's a good first post too. My car is doing this very thing.