Stripping headlights down

Hello all, Just quickly, while adjusting the light beam (initially it was pointing straight down at the ground), i think i broke the up/down adjuster as when you turn it now, it does sound/feel as if it biting on something and subsequentlyone beam is now higher than the other at night. Before i attempt it, is it possible to strip the lights down to access this part or is my crime going to be better by needing a complete 'new' shell? If it helps, its a litronic head light. Thanks

Apparently alignment motors can be swapped between units. This means some degree of access and maintenance is possible, its just getting hold of a spare unit to canabalise (assuming it isn't just a case of refitting something that has come loose). I have never done this myself, and I think overall they are sealed.

As GT4 says, you can change certain bits which are available as spares, like morors, ballasts, etc. but the adjuster parts aren't You could check the ball joint on the motor output rod. Sometimes they pop out.

Ahh ok, thanks fellas. Think ill have to leave it to next weekend now as the days flying by and tiredness is kicking in :nooo: Im hoping its just popped out as you can hear it 'grinding' but doesnt actually do anything :?:

If you do decide to keep playing with your headlamps, the removal tool will burst. Keep it for emergencies and use an M5 socket with long reach adapter to get to table locking mechanism in the wings. SEE HERE: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=54922

Thanks for the heads up, will go and get the replacement tool. Hopefully i wont keep fiddling with them once ive got the beam adjusted to light up the road

Is yours missing or broken then? Just saying as it is fragile to use a 5mm socket when you are near the comfort of your own toolbox (socket set). There is no point wearing it out if you can substitute with a proper socket head.

The beam height adjusts via a plastic bevel gear the teeth shear. The motor swings the light between 2 ultimate stops upper and lower The motor,if not removed correctly can will snap the housing it's a slight twist and then a sharpe pull to in pop the ball joint after removing the locating screw. You can run the motor after it is pulled but it sounds to me that the bevels are toothless Dissection and repair is possible with a doner light but cutting the case is required. I may have some inner spares FOC if your brave enough.

Surely you have got to be bl**dy ham-fisted to break a steel box spanner doing that job? Especially with the limited leverage of the short handle.

You're joking, right? Have you used the pressed steel release tool? I've seen better in the free "toolkits" included in an IKEA flat-pack! Shocking quality, especially the new Eastern European stock. The thing cracks (bursts) along the forming bends. Even before it bursts it isn't a precision fit, so rounds out quite quickly, slips, then rounds off the hardened steel locking bolts! Great design. One release tool and one pair of locking bolts later, I am ONLY using a 5mm socket if I can help it. OK, to be fair I was doing lots of headlamp R&D and swapouts in winter (when the metal is more brittle) and technically I have no idea how many times it had been used before or if it was simply a dud, and ultimately when it burst a "mate" of mine was "helping" to refit them and assumed the locking thread direction was identical, rather than handed :roll:, when tightening them up. But even so, they look awful and a 5mm socket just slips on to the the locking bolt heads perfectly and gives a great precision mating ... anyway, I digress. The fact is there were at least a couple of threads on here where the tool had burst and it just went round and round leaving the one-car owner stranded with the headlamps loose. Also the tool costs £10 and the (paired) locking bolts cost £22. So, basically, don't risk it!

Never had a problem with them myself.

No ham for you then, Jack.

Unfortunately i wont know until Friday when i can have a look, but if it is the above, is it not possible to just replace the plastic bevel or in lay man terms, is what your suggesting is that i need a new light casing/housing? If so, do yo know how much one is or is it a case of getting one off of ebay? Thanks

okay after much faffing around (didnt want to break anything) and long story short, it appears that its just the interraction between the bevel and cog. The horizontal movement is good but just not the vertical. Ive tried to press something against the outside and push the cog onto the adjusting bevel but no good and i cant get the cog to free wheel(though neither will the horizontal). Has anyone got any ideas on how to get the bevel out or do i potentially have to strip the innards out of the lights to get access and looking at the cog, it looks like its screwed in when the head light cover is off?!? :sad: edit: just got off the phone to OPC Hatfield and their going to see if its covered by the warrenty or not as the part in question is part of the head light and so in theory is non changeable :frustrated: = new head light. However the part in question cant really be broken through general wear and tear as its not in use all the time (manual adjustor) also just like to say thanks to Rich H for all the help hes given me :thumb:

ok, bit of an update and for future reference, after finding out that its not covered by OPC warrenty i decided to have another look and poke around - turns out id somehow manage to over adjust and therefore the contact between bevel and cog was virtually non-existant as the adjustor had wound back too much :frustrated: IF this happens to you, 1. take out the motor 2. Put the light on your lap but with everything pointing down so the innards are facing the sky 3. Using a long screwdriver, place on the back of the cog and apply a little bit of pressure 4. At the same time as applying pressure, turn the bevel until the two bite. IF it doesnt bite initially, turn bevel the opposite way or apply abit more pressure downwards until it moves. Got it booked into Hatfield now on their freebie day so will have them check over the sensors and run diagnostics then