Coolant flashing+lines full of air

I bought my first Porsche august 2012, its a 1999 Carrera c2, it now has 103,000km on it. I came out last week to find a puddle of coolant underneath the car, so I took it to the shop and got the coolant tank replaced and put in new coolant (btw old coolant was **** yellow with tinge of green). They used the method where your revving car at 4k while adding coolant ect. No success.. the coolant system is packed with air, I was told to try and drive it a bit to push the air out of the lines. (btw my bleeder valve comes up by itself within 5minutes of driving, if u slowly release cap there is tons of air and bleeder valve drops) - also within 10-15minutes of driving or so when the air really compresses a lot my engine will start to flutter its rpm's while idling, if I go release the air it will idle smooth til the pressure builds up again - next day they tried again, service manual stated to elevate the rear of the car while putting in new coolant...+ doing the 4k revving, this also didn't work, I was told to try and drive it out again and have been releasing the air out of the cap few times a day, still nothing coolant light is still flashing, still packed with air, and engines still fluttering its rpms when the pressure builds up any suggestions?

1) Buy this: UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive 2) Enjoy life with no air in your coolant system. -Shawn

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I couldn't make it work without one of these. Worked with a tech at the local "jiffy lube" for more than an hour. Bought one of these the next day and was done within minutes.

you need to find a shop that knows what they are doing... i guess this is just like your Clutch Issue

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any suggestions on a good shop that doesn't charge ridiculous prices? I live in mississauga

You are going to destroy that engine doing what you are doing. The 3.4 engine is notorious for creating hot spots that crack the heads. Buy the UView and do it right. At least snap the bail up and leave it up until you get most of the air out.

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iv been closely watching the temperature making sure it doesn't overheat, and it hasn't which is just further confusing since it should overheat with air in the system from what I was told?

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Just listen to Frank. We're trying to help you and not to scare you. The temp sensor only measures the coolant temp at one spot (after the radiator) in teh whole system. You could have localized overheat developed inside the engine block where the air pockets are and the temp sensor is never gonna read those...

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Why do you think the engine "flutters" at idle after 10-15 minutes of running with the cooling system air locked? It's not because the air is really compressed. How much coolant are you able to add when you "release" the air each time? It's the pre 99s that are air-cooled. These newer ones need coolant.

I dropped by "hunter Porsche" shop to get his opinion an hour ago, He told me if its not over-heating than there is no air in the system and that it didn't matter if no vacuum tool was used it still works the same, but then he took off the cap and revved it and when releasing the gas pedal coolant started pouring out which he said isn't supposed to happen. he topped it off and it eventually stopped and he said it was fine and to try it (lights still flashing), I asked about the "fluttering" and he replied that he did not know the problem. im not saying anyone's wrong here im just trying to figure out whats going on, 2 shops and both are confused

Thermostat might be on its way out

Coolant light is flashing and the shop still says it's fine. I think you should run from the shop....I think you should just start over by draining the coolant from the engine block, put the vacuum tool on, and refill.

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sounds like a good start. ill have the thermostat looked at to thanks for all the replies guys

I worked on an Oldsmobile 3.5 DOHC V6 that I thought for sure had air, gurgling in the heater core and all sorts of weird stuff. New thermostat fixed it.

Did you at least check it before you drove it there? I mean cmon its leaking coolant and you think "I'll just drive it to shop". What?????? Other than the leak, were there any other issues before first shop did the "repair" work? If you believe the original shop to be competent, sounds like you should have went back to them FIRST. All parties involved sound clueless. I still dont get why someone with no mechanical capability buys a 10+ year old high end sports car. I would educate myself about the 996 so you could at least ask relevant questions while speaking with a "real" Porsche technician if you can even find one.

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-I don't get why you come on here and assume I drove the car with no coolant... I got it towed. -before the leak, 15k of no issues. I have went back to the shop, they tried a second time, they are going to get the ulift tool and told me to go to "hunter Porsche" for an opinion in the meantime -I just started auto repair technician a week ago, I am eventually going to work on my 911, but this coolant problem is even confusing Porsche specific shops and a euro specialist shop. I don't get why you start arguments based on assumptions...

[QUOTE=bullet031;10462840]-I don't get why you come on here and assume I drove the car with no coolant... I got it towed. -before the leak, 15k of no issues. I have went back to the shop, they tried a second time, they are going to get the ulift tool and told me to go to "hunter Porsche" for an opinion in the meantime -I just started auto repair technician a week ago, I am eventually going to work on my 911, but this coolant problem is even confusing Porsche specific shops and a euro specialist shop. I don't get why you start arguments based on assumptions...[ /QUOTE] That is why he is called Krazy.

Ease up there bro. Thats why. Wasnt clear about it. So you have it towed without even,,,, on second thought, nevermind. And clueless means: If you have to tell your shop to buy an Airlift, (which is needed on most newer and European cars) holy crap. Then they tell you to bring it somewhere else? That doesnt exactly scream competence on your shops part. Clueless: Clueless: And more clueless. Get the picture? I asked clarifying questions because it sounds like the current issue would most likely be somehow related to the work done by that shop. Good luck with your auto-tech class. Trouble shooting will be part of the curriculum (I hope).

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ok but I don't get why your coming at me? Im just going by what the shop is telling me and trying to figure out what's wrong with the car, this is a pointless argument

No ones "coming at you" or arguing with you. When you start a thread with such an odd post surely you do not expect handholding and consoling. People are trying to give you suggestions about your issue. It almost sounds like you brought your 996 to some bargain basement coolant flush place like The Oil Can, Jiffy Lube, or Walmart. Then you are surprised by the results?? Others tried to tell you to run from the first place but I would at least lodge some type of complaint with someone there. You cant expect a "real" Porsche Tech to clean up the mess you started without some pain on your part. Ever have someone bring you a non-running vehicle with the engine parts in a box? Dont worry, if you become proficient at auto mechanics, it will happen. Then see how quick you are to help. I will repeat this for you. Read some more about the 996 cooling system and you will be able to better communicate with forum members and/or Porsche Techs about your issue(s). If you wish to remain blissfully ignorant about the 996, drop it off at a Porsche dealer and announce "call me when its fixed". No offense intended. GLWR!

Just to put it out there.... Here in Panama, there is only one authorized Porsche dealer. My car went in for a coolant flush as I thought/believed I had an intermix problem. Long story short, even at the dealer, using their pressurized tool, after they filled the system with air just to test to see if there was a leak, they are struggling to get all of the air bubbles out. It is not as bad as the OP states (well, I am not there, so I am not 100% sure on this), but the dealer is on their second attempt to get them out by warming up the car and then "releasing the air" once it cools off. They have done this twice (each time the coolant tank is empty before refilling) and expect to do it once or twice more tomorrow morning.

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I do not understand how this works. Can someone explain, the Youtube videos don't show much.

Should be using vacuum not air pressure to test system. After vacuum test, simply allow system to fill. No air! Guess dealer does not even know their own procedure? Look at my Renntech DIY and another members DIY on this forum. Its very easy.

Unfortunately for me, this is not the first, second, nor third time that I have had to correct the local dealer regarding procedure/diagnosis/part numbers regarding my vehicles. Sucks when your only option is the internet, though Renntech is pretty good!

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This is the kit I purchased: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive You drain the system if it has fluid in it. I just used the engine drain plug and squeezed the hoses near the thermostat to clear them of fluid. Next you put the rubber plug into the fill tank and connect an air compressor to one of the hoses supplied. The air flow from your compressor causes a vacuum and the air is pulled out of the cooling system...it happens fast. You pull the vacuum down to 25 inches on the gauge and close the valve on the coupler. You then disconnect the first hose (the one that creates the vacuum) from the coupler and attach another hose that has a filter on the end of it. You put that hose/filter into your bucket of antifreeze and turn on the valve. The vacuum in the engine/hoses pulls the antifreeze into the cooling system until the vacuum drops to zero. At this point, the system is full. You may still have to add a little after running it a couple of times but I had to add a couple of cups at most. Really nice looking kit, all the fittings are first rate and clear instructions on the lid of the box it comes in. Really easy to use and works great.

^+1 also, before you connect the coupler to the coolant, you can wait for 10min or so to verify the vacuum holds which indicates your system is air tight.