Thinking of a 996, a few questions.

Hello all, am thinking of getting a new weekend/toy/track day car and have been looking at 996s. Now I like the look of the GT3 but obviously they are a lot more expensive than a 'normal' 996, so I have been looking at 996s with the aero bodykit fitted etc. Now I have a few questions: 1. Would a 'normal' 996 be good to use on track days? 2. Is there a big difference between the 3.4 and 3.6 996s? 3. I know the problems of liners and RMS leaks, apart from that what else to concern myself with? I am quite good with spanners so routine parts I am happy with (brakes etc). Thanks Lee

There's a massive difference between a GT3 and an ordinary 996 - not least in price. IMO the main [EDIT = replacing 'only'] reason for going for an ordinary 996 with an aero kit is cosmetic. Whether a 996 would suit your needs as a track car depends upon what you've driven around a track before and what track you intend to drive on. Experienced track drivers can hustle them around pretty quickly but a Lotus Elise would be quicker in the hands of a novice - especially round somewhere like Brands. I've never driven a 3.4 but every test I've ever read about the 3.6 (dozens) stated that there is a noticeable performance improvement between the two - even if some of the usual stats don't show it as significant. If budget isn't an issue I'd go for a 3.6 every time. If it is, then drive both first. I can't comment about DIY spannering but I'd say you'd have to be pretty confident/competent to tackle anything other than the basics. Even if you are, parts prices are expensive.

The power to weight is almost identical (996.2 is more powerful, but more portly than 996.1) For track get a low weight C2 3.4 996.1 Mod the suspension and brakes, fit seats and cage and dump extras. The aerokit is an aerodynamically/downforce effective mod - it was designed for the GT3! The rear spoiler is adjustable for maximum attack! As for service/maintenance - just warm thoroughly and lubricate properly and check other fluids. There is nothing else you can do re RMS/liners/seized pistons etc other than normal mechanical sympathy there is no preventative measures. The actual failures seem to be random (although the liner problem reputation stems from a concentrated batch of very early Boxster cases and possibly some 996s for another reason). Make sure you fit front grills to prevent stone chips destroying your rads.

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I guess I answered the OP in the vein of C2 vs GT3 trackday car (which was one of his specifications), and they only really get close if you mod the C2 a decent amount. Not that the C2 isn't lovely to start with, but it does need to be lower (and stiffer), lighter, better braked and ideally more downforce to be a track day beast. The aerokit without suspension lowering is almost pointless, as the car gets lower you also benefit from ground effect thanks to the enclosed flat undercarriage. The chin spoiler on a GT3/aerokit adds 17kg downforce and the rear spoiler at maximum attack is 40kg downforce.

Thanks for the replies and to answer a few questions: I currently have a R1 powered Caterham thingy that I have used for track days and the weekend hoons, so will be keeping that as it is a good laugh and so cheap to run and is quicker than most 996s on a track. As for the use of the 996, well it would be used for weekends mostly, with the odd use to work and back and the odd track day, as I would take both the 996 and the R1 powered car to the day and use them both (R1 car has no windscreen etc so can be a bit extreme!). I am deffo swaying towards a 996 with the GT3 kit on it, perhaps with the PSE and sports suspension? Thanks Lee

Make sure you fit front grills to prevent stone chips destroying your rads. GT4, on a slightly less exciting note - can you point me in the right direction for the DIY on this mod and whether you can get hold of black or silver meshing? Thanks. I hope to clean my rads out at some point so would like to do this at the same time.

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=51912 and http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=52852 and http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...t=996 Turbo Front Bumper Removal - DIY w/pics I have a diagram of the screw holes. I will post when I get home.

Thanks, GT4. Very helpful indeed! Now all I need is the courage to take the job on (on my driveway!!). I think that I'll probably go for the black mesh as the car is in Seal Grey and it'll complement the black blanking plate in the middle of my PU. Did you spray the Dinitrol all over the radiators and the condensers - on all sides? Does it have any effect on the cooling side of things (along with the slightly reduced air flow from the mesh inserts)?. Thanks again!

Sprayed eveyrthing I could get to (including nuts and bolts, pipework, brakets etc). It just dries to a thin lacquer. Depending on mesh ratio (how open the mesh is vs the grid) the mesh will reduce the airflow by upto 20%). Below 30mph this airflow reduction may result in higher coolant temperatures (but within tolerances given the cars are buit for hotter places than here). Once over 50 mph there is no residual effect (the air pressure is sufficient to supply surplus cooling). If you really worry, run the AC and and the coolant temp will drop 6 degrees (if it isn't already running). The AC forces the AC fans to run, which also ventilates the coolant rads. These are the same fans that will kick in if the car detects temp in excess of 105 degrees anyway. Had no problems with overheating. Depending on use, the car runs between 86 degrees and temporary max of 102 degrees when stationary after a "blatt" on a hot day. Normally around the 92 degrees optimum temperature.

Ok. Great. Thanks again - and apologies to the OP for hijacking this post! :thumbs:

No worries! :grin:

Sorry for the re-HiJack Remove the front PU (screw/bolt positions): http://911uk.com/files/removing_the_front_bumper_102.png

Cheers, both. More than helpful and hugely informative! :thumbs:

That rear spoiler in full: