Looking at a 996 Turbo tomorrow. - Page 2 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

Having been away from the fold for a long while I am planning to rejoin the ranks. I am looking at a 911 Turbo Cab tomorrow. 2005 @ 37k miles - are there any particular things that i need to check for? It has been described as having a small leak from the guide rail seal behind the water jacket? Is this a problem or do they all leak. Any advice appreciated and hopefully will be rejoining the fold soon.

Remove the intake and make sure there is no oil in there. If there is then a turbo is leaking oil and needs to be replaced. Check for leaks front to back. suspension/brakes/rads/clutch/dme 10 year old car. So tons of other things to check.

You might want to spend a few quid and get an inspection done.... You could get an indy to do it for around the £200 mark - if they find nothing, well done! If they do, then you either have a negotiation tool or you can walk away and save yourself a big bill!

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2015... This one? Looks a very nice car.....

New to the forum guys yes mad march this is the actual 911

ususal crap advert when it comes to spec if it helps negotiations: Electric windows Satellite navigation Parking aid CD player Leather trim Height adjustable driver's seat Height adjustable passenger seat Folding rear seats Sports seats 18" Alloy Wheels Power steering Steering wheel reach adjustment Traction control Central locking Alarm Immobiliser Driver's airbags Side airbags Passenger airbags 4 seats out of all that guff only the parking sensor and 6cd changer are options, and sports seats are no-cost option and sacrifices fully electrics and memory function they also missed that the car has an additional option - heated seats

The missing tow eye cover would have me asking questions. The front splitter has a few scrapes, they are £250 for a new one. Not sure about the slight leak, could be a nice honest seller, or could be so obvious that they don't want a situation when you get there. If it's under warranty I wonder why this hasn't been fixed. The car is located very close to nine excellence, who are probably the leading 996 turbo specialist, they also happen to do pre-purchase inspections

In addition to the rads/discs/pads/clutch advice (which is all good advice) take a look at the heat shields, turbo actuator linkages, look/feel/smell for damp on the bottom of the door cards and footwells. Check the window courtesy drop works. Obviously, look at thee tyres. Inner edge wear is rapid, especially on the rears. Rear suspension can drop too, meaning a refresh is required. Interior wise, have a look at the centre console. These suffer wear and tear easily. Console storage compartment lid hinge is weak, but theres an easy fixing kit to sort it. Headlight covers glaze and craze up with age, but can be polished up. Tail pieces corrode, especially along the bottom edge. All that said, they are epic cars and incredible VFM. Good luck.

In addition to the rads/discs/pads/clutch advice (which is all good advice) take a look at the heat shields, turbo actuator linkages, look/feel/smell for damp on the bottom of the door cards and footwells. Check the window courtesy drop works. Obviously, look at thee tyres. Inner edge wear is rapid, especially on the rears. Rear suspension can drop too, meaning a refresh is required. Interior wise, have a look at the centre console. These suffer wear and tear easily. Console storage compartment lid hinge is weak, but theres an easy fixing kit to sort it. Headlight covers glaze and craze up with age, but can be polished up. Tail pieces corrode, especially along the bottom edge. All that said, they are epic cars and incredible VFM. Good luck.

Take it to 9e to get an inspection if you can, they did mine and were very thorough - picked up loads but also put into perspective and where you should really worry.

Take it to 9e to get an inspection if you can, they did mine and were very thorough - picked up loads but also put into perspective and where you should really worry.

Check the rear spoiler goes up (75mph ish) and down automatically ....on a private road!

And? Did you go to look at it?

Hi, yes mad went to see the turbo Saturday, but tbh was fairly disappointing, last Porsche main dealer inspection highlighted worn clutch, oil leaking from guide rail seal, air-con not working both condensers require replacement, and also suspension top mounts worn. also in addition to all of these things, all 4 wheels require refurbishment, 2 front tires on the legal limit, various small marks around the car, headlining hanging down in the rear of roof, and the rubber splitter also requires replacement at the front. all of these things i was pre-paired to over look at the right price but sadly her lack of negotiation skills let her down from doing a deal i offered £29k but she will not accept a penny less than £32,000 for me doesn't feel like a good car unless its the right price ? what is your opinions? also might go and view this one 2004 tip turbo what you think ? can be bought for £29k http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-PORSCHE-911-996-3-6...

Well - it all comes down to the price, doesn't it? The second car has 20K more miles and is a Tip, which you would think might add to the value but actually has the opposite effect.. I'd price up the work for the 1st car and go back with an offer which reflects that - it would be a nicer car when sorted - assuming the £££ add up

MAD a few people have told me the manual will hold its value better in the long term as the older type tip boxes can be vague and very boring ? like you say it does come down to price.... she has emailed me this morning if i can pay £30k i can own it, would you say this is a sensible price these are fast appreciating, and becoming harder to find and are know to see 40k around dealers ?

seems a pretty good compromise on your offer - just price up all the work properly clutch and tyres wear out and I would not necessarily replace if I was selling as you may not get the value back, headlining and general lack of care would put me off more How did the OP Frenchda morph into Jamerson89 ?

I am not really up to speed with the increase in price of 996tts but you have a 4k bill without finding anything else. Unfortunately some 996tts are or have been in the hands of people with the money to buy but not to maintain. There are loved examples - keep looking.

jamerson89 said: MAD a few people have told me the manual will hold its value better in the long term as the older type tip boxes can be vague and very boring ? like you say it does come down to price.... she has emailed me this morning if i can pay £30k i can own it, would you say this is a sensible price these are fast appreciating, and becoming harder to find and are know to see 40k around dealers ? That's a £25k car if she's lucky imo. There will be lots more needed if you take it to decent Indy

Hi Frenchda is my cousin he posted on my behalf i have since set myself up an account

IMA £25k ? im struggling to find all kind of 911 turbo cab for under £30k i think these cars are on the rise and talking to most in the trade i dont think even dealers can buy them at that money, ??? whats every ones thoughts on the tip this car below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-PORSCHE-911-996-3-6...

jamerson89, Are you only looking for cab or would the "right" coupe manual with a sunroof do?

Looking at the Seal Grey car I guess it's up to you whether you could live with a Tiptronic. I'd probably try it and see what you think. based on the photo's it looks okay but as it's being sold by a van & truck dealer I'd want a specialist inspection to make sure everything is in order as bills can soon mount up on these things. My only other comment would be to check that the 997 Turbo alloys are genuine forged wheels and not cheap replicas.

jamerson89 said: IMA £25k ? im struggling to find all kind of 911 turbo cab for under £30k i think these cars are on the rise and talking to most in the trade i dont think even dealers can buy them at that money, ??? whats every ones thoughts on the tip this car below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-PORSCHE-911-996-3-6... I'd start with asking price send the car down to 9e, JZM i.e. a good Indy or OPC on the agreement that the full asking price is reduced by the cost of all the works. You'll be surprised how much work a 2005 turbo even with only 37k may need through age. Its not like you're getting a warranty from the vendor. If the engine goes pop you get a £15k to £30k bill Unlikely but these cars costs can add up unless you stay on top of them

IMIA said: That's a £25k car if she's lucky imo. There will be lots more needed if you take it to decent Indy reckon that's harsh but I agree it should be £30k subject to an inspection and reduction for additional items not already known by the buyer OP - don't buy a tip unless you have tried one, they are marmite - that said more in keeping with cab than coupe, manual coupe is the one to get IMHO (I love marmite but dislike tips)

Frenchda said: Having been away from the fold for a long while I am planning to rejoin the ranks. I am looking at a 911 Turbo Cab tomorrow. 2005 @ 37k miles - are there any particular things that i need to check for? It has been described as having a small leak from the guide rail seal behind the water jacket? Is this a problem or do they all leak. Any advice appreciated and hopefully will be rejoining the fold soon. Be careful with any coolant leaks from the Turbo engine. These can arise form a coolant hose fitting leaking (there are 5 or 6) - they are epoxied into the engine block and work loose -- as this is an engine out job to address. The car is just a used car so give it a thorough used car check out. Arrange to view the car with the car/engine dead cold. Turn on the key and confirm the CEL comes on but goes off when/after the engine starts. Be sure to turn the A/C off. You check this later. Let the engine idle while you get out of the car and walk around looking at the car. Open the engine compartment lid so you can hear the engine better. You want to look the car over, but at the same time listen to the engine as it warms up. You do not want to hear scary noises. After 5 or 10 minutes of idling -- ideally the engine should idle long enough to get hot enough to check the oil level -- have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. The route should give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use the car. Back at the starting point then while not shutting off the engine you take the car out as a test driver and cover the same route and drive the car the same way. Back at the starting point the second time if you still like the car then give it a thorough used car check out. Use the CPO check list the techs use. What to look for? Everything. Some high lights: Check the spoiler goes up and down evenly, smoothly. Check for any fluid leaks. Any leak can require a new spoiler hydraulic system. Expensive. Check radiators for any leak sign. These are hard to see unless the car is in the air. And even then the condenser sits in front of the radiator. But if you see lots of trash in the radiator ducts piled up in front the center radiator assume the radiators will need replacement sooner rather than later. And even if you keep the radiator ducts free of trash, my experience with my 03 Turbo is at around 100K to 120K miles the radiators will leak anyway and have to be replaced. Where the core joins the bottom of the radiator this leaks. Be sure both radiator fans blow the same amount of air. During the test drive if a manual transmission you checked for no gear pop out. And if a Tip that the Tip shifted with no drama. The clutch should be light with no pulsing. If you feel pulsing when you depress the clutch pedal and bring it back up again the accumulator is bad. The slave cylinder usually goes bad at the same time. If when you got in the car and the clutch was hard to depress this is a sign the accumulator is bad, too. If when you roll up to a stop with the tranny in neutral and the clutch released you hear a high pitched whistle that goes away when you depress the clutch pedal that's a high pressure relief valve in the power steering fluid reservoir. The valve is not sold separately a new tank must be bought and fitted. After the test ride/drive then get the car in the air. Look for any leaks. Check the water pump for any signs of anti-freeze residue under/behind the pulley. Feel the belt. A sharp edge is the belt rubbing and this arises from an accessory drive with too much bearing play. Check the RMS. Check the CV boots rear and front. Check the axle flange seals. The front ones leaked on my Turbo. Check for power steering fluid leaks. A low power steering fluid level can be a leak sign the fluid leaking past the rack seals only to be caught by the dust boots. Check the turbo oil lines/fittings for any leak. The PPI should have the intake hoses disconnected and the intercoolers checked for any oil. Oil in the intercoolers can be a sign the turbo oil seals are bad. And so on. There's more, lots more, but the above are (some of) the high lights.