31 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHProblems Shifting into First Gear
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect (good) battery
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Triggered when I disconnected (good) battery for a hard reset to try and solve strange fault code for ABS/DTC module.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect (good) battery' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Check battery
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
At first the dash displayed "check battery disconnect switch" which I made sure was not activated.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Have "Check battery off switch on DIM and temp gauge on full, check engine light on, trip milage showing - - - - , DTC unavaiable, Brake failure stop safely, which is what the owners manual describes as expected if "BDS pushed accidently"
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Have "Check battery off switch on DIM and temp gauge on full, check engine light on, trip milage showing - - - - , DTC unavaiable, Brake failure stop safely, which is what the owners manual describes as expected if "BDS pushed accidently"
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
When you have 0v, means the switch is active and keeping the circuit open and not sending power to the vehicle from battery, or the switch has fried itself and stuck open circuit..this happens when a positive cable or terminal contacts with chassis/negative(during a repair, like changing starts or alternator with batt still connected), it instantly kills the BDS.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
6SpeedOnline: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I'd pay about $1000 to have it fixed, but not much more.
After driving several days like this - I've had it.
When pulling up to a red light:
1) I disengage the clutch
2) Pull the shifter out into neutral
3) Engage the clutch back into neutral
Then when the green light appears:
1) Disengage the clutch
2) Attempt to bring the shifter into first gear, but it stops half way from neutral and first, as if something inside is blocking the pathway. And Yes, I have the clutch pedal completely down.
Has anybody encounter such a problem?
Hello all.
I am having issues starting my 2007 V8 Vantage Manual.
At first the dash displayed "check battery disconnect switch" which I made sure was not activated. I also changed the battery. When i start the car, it cranks continuously but does not start. The dash displays there is no fuel in the car, however the tank is full (I just put in 5 gallons and topped it off)
I ran a diagnostic at my friends shop and it states the following errors:
P1233: Fuel Pump Driver Module off line
U0001: High Speed CAN communication BUS
It seems like there is a problem with the fuel pump, seeing that the car is showing no gas and the p1233 error. Is there any way to determine if this could be a faulty relay or fuse before I go ahead an buy a new fuel pump module? I unfortunately do not have the fuse diagram. Does anyone know what fuses and relays are responsible for the fuel pump system?
Also any idea on how/where to access the fuel pump module?
Thanks in advance
I have a similar problem. Sometimes, I have "resistance" in moving from N to 1st. If I don't pay attention, then I do end up grinding my gears and going no-where.
Now, if I feel it have that resistance, I put the gear in N, let out the clutch, and try again.
It's almost as if 1st gear is missing or has a damaged synchro. My old '83 BMW motorcycle did not have synchros on 1st gear. Sort of the same feeling.
Any thoughts? It's sniggling, but I have to pay attention to it so I don't make a loud grinding noise off the line, humiliate myself, and horrify any onlookers.
Can not say I have had this issue. Over the years, be it a Mustang or a Porsche, I have applied a simple remedy to the potential first gear shift issue. Second gear first. The old one-two, but backwards. Works every time. Just my three cents (inflation)
You should see if someone other than a friend with a shop has better skills or at least more knowledge of the vehicle. What's the history and how long has it been in this condition?
Fuel pump module is not sending its monitoring signal check to the PCM. Read the attached OBD2 info, check fuse F9 in trunk, see attached circuit diagram. FPDM is hard to get to, see picture.
Wow, thank you so much for the information!
With the code my car is giving, I am assuming either one of the fuses/relays is bad, or the actual Fuel pump driver module is bad.
I will start by checking all of the fuel pump related fuses:
-Fuse F9 in the trunk, Relay #2 in the trunk, and Diode#1.
-I also found some fuel pump related fuses in front of the passenger side seat (Although not labeled for fuel pump driver module - but the fuel pump itself): Fuse #47 and 74 under the pass side footwell are for the fuse pump.
If none of these are the culprit, my next step will be to replace the Fuel pump driver module. Does anyone know if this requires programming by the dealer? Unfortunately, the nearest dealer is miles away and would be a costly tow....which is the only reason I am trying to get the problem resolved at the shop that the car already is.
Comforting to know that I'm not alone. Have you considered taking him to the dealership, just for peace of mind? I did give the dealership a call, they said it could be due to dirty transmission oil or, like you said, damaged syncho.
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I wonder if the error is similar to those found in Ford's:
F150 & Expedition No Start P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module - YouTube
Same code found in F150 & Expedition, and same symptoms (Crank, No Start P1233)
As this year vantage is from the Ford years, i'm just curious if this could be a similar issue (even though our FDPM is not located externally as in the Ford)
Do you still have the "Check battery switch" msg in the dash? You have to resolve this issue first otherwise fuel will be cut from priming and injecting. You also have a CAN bus fault..I would track the battery switch msg and CAN fault.. It might lead you to replacing the FPM, but at least you would have been faulted guided into doing so.
First make sure the batt switch is passing the voltage through the switch and not just on the stay alive circuit feed... And then with the batt connected, check the CANHS and CANLS voltages in pins 3+11 and 6+14 of the diag port on body and 6+14 on engine. Then with batt disconnected check the resistance through the CAN circuits and make sure your at 60ohms.
If all checks out, check the voltage/ground/CAN at the FPM and confirm circuits are good. You can bypass the module(not for long) and confirm the issue is the module if you can prime the pump and get fuel pressure.
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Couple of things. One when was the last time you had the brake and clutch fluid flushed and bled? This is an important service to keep the brake hydraulic system in good working order but the clutch is important to.
Next how many miles on the car? Perhaps the transmission fluid is due to be changed? While a fluid change won't resurrect a truly bad transmssion more than once troublesome shifting that had me thinking the transmssion was going out were cured with a fluid change. Might mention my 02 Boxster's 5-speed now has 270K miles on it.
Unless you've done the above recently and are satisfied the brake/clutch flush/bleed job was done right -- I have to stress this point: I did this once with a pressure bleeder and was not happy with the result and did it again with someone in the car working the clutch pedal and was more than happy with the results; or had the tranny fluid changed and used the correct fluid, you should do both before you look into possibly more expensive transmission work.
Now you might be throwing good money after bad with the fluid change for if the tranny is bad this won't help, as I mentioned above, but at least you know. A tranny rebuild or replacement is lots of money and you want to be as sure as you can be it needs rebuilding or replacing before you act.
Also, you should consider having the car checked out. A qualified/experienced tech might then turn around and advise you a fluid change is not going to help and at least you save that cost and you have an expert's diagnosis the tranny is toast.
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Hi, from across the pond, I'm chasing down the same issue on my UK 05 V8V and found your useful thread.
Triggered when I disconnected (good) battery for a hard reset to try and solve strange fault code for ABS/DTC module. (P0050 DTC Brake control module disturbance detection [radio frequency interface])
Have "Check battery off switch on DIM and temp gauge on full, check engine light on, trip milage showing - - - - , DTC unavaiable, Brake failure stop safely, which is what the owners manual describes as expected if "BDS pushed accidently"
Irish, could you clarify "Stay alive feed" please? On the bottom stud of the battery reset switch I get 0V when BDS switch is pressed and battery voltage when the reset switch is reset. Does this verify power supply?
Have U0001 and followed your voltage CAN checks as above. No voltage across 3 + 11, 4 + 16 body plug and 4 + 16 engine plug.
Thanks in advance, Quad
Quote:
You should have battery voltage out of the BDS when it's not active.
When you have 0v, means the switch is active and keeping the circuit open and not sending power to the vehicle from battery, or the switch has fried itself and stuck open circuit..this happens when a positive cable or terminal contacts with chassis/negative(during a repair, like changing starts or alternator with batt still connected), it instantly kills the BDS.
I'm sure you have booster cables, use them to jump the switch and see if the vehicle functions normal. If it does, means you have a dead BDS that would need to be replaced.
Quote:
Good for you. For me, I had a new clutch put in at about 40K miles. And it had the same symptoms before the clutch change.
I'm due for my 60KM service in about 7K miles, so that's when I'll have the systems bled and whatnot.
It's not a major show stopper, but it is an irritant. I'd pay about $1000 to have it fixed, but not much more. Unfortunately, with these mechanical problems, you really can't set a hard and fast limit at all times, but we'll see what the next major service does.
Update: managed to take further measurements from both DTC plugs as suggested by Irish's post above.
0 volts at pins 3 + 11 and 6 + 14 on the body port and 6 + 14 on the engine port.
Resistance readings with battery disconnected, body port, across pins 3 + 11 - 61 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 59 ohms, pretty much as suggested. Engine port, across pins 3 + 11 - 121 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 0 ohms/open loop.
Suggestions please as to where to go/test next. Finding the wiring diagram I have unclear as to wire colours and pin numbers and which components are which pins located.
Thanks again in advance, quad.
Images of readings described
Thanks Macster
Just to update you all:
The Porsche technician over at my local dealership narrowed it down to the damaged synchros on 1st and 2nd gear. According to the technician, this issue isn't really too big of a deal, as long as I can stand it. Now debating if I should get the transmission fixed right away or not.
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120ohms on engine is normal because there's only 1 module with 1x 120ohms resistor. On the body plug 60ohms is expected because you have 2x 120ohms resistor wired in parallel.
You also have 0V on all the pins because you have zero battery power feeding the canbus system.
Do as I suggested in yesterday's reply, that will lead you towards a direction to follow.
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Did you get an estimate as to how much this would cost? I'd be very interested.
As it is, I'm treating my symptoms the same way... I think I can deal with it -- it's not getting worse. I don't track my car and on "street boogies", don't really need to be able to shift in the 99 percentile (at least not with the boost of this car).
But I am curious as to the estimated cost.
Cheers for the clarification on the resistances Irish. Am confident the BDS is working corectly, (used a booster cable across it, no difference) now need to chase the feed for CAN network. The wiring diagram I've downloaded from FB group isnt as clear as the ones
@rmrmd1956
posted so need them if you got them, please? Sheet 25 perhaps? Will ask him for them too.
Cheers, Quad
The dealership quoted "starting at 5k"..... I'm searching for indy shops around the bay area that could do the same job for cheaper.
Let me know if you come across any thing.
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Hi
@rmrmd1956
Do you have the wiring diagram similar to the ones you posted previously? Much clearer and easy to follow than what I've downloaded from the FB group.
Looking for power supply to the CAN network. Page 25 maybe?
Cheers, Quad
Quote:
You can always pay for a day subscription to
https://technicalhub.astonmartin.com/amtis/
, and download all the information you need straight from AML.
If you have power going through the BDS, that means your CEM is dead/offline.
You don't have a canbus issue, you have a power issue. Modules cannot send canbus voltage unless they have power, trace down why your CEM module is not powering up and odds are you will find the route cause.
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"Hard to get at"? Too bloody right! Found two broken earths which restored the DIM when reconnected, P1233 fuel system still offline though, measuring voltages at the FPDM as per your attachment, this morning.
Hi all, earth's repaired and still chasing P1233 fuel system disabled. Following the Aston "technical bulletin/fault finding flow chart thing posted by rmrmd1956 above. Need to check wiring between "PCM" and fuel pump driver module.
Two questions: 1 Presumably that's the power train control module? Or engine management ECU?
2 Aston Martin Technical Hub download (cheers Irish) shows engine management roughly between front suspension tower and brake servo. It isn't, so where do I find it?
Cheers Quad
