Centrelocks - Page 2 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

I was looking at buying a suitable torque wrench to remove wheels and as a result have been investigating which way tighten and untighten the large centre nuts. I thought that centrelocks all fastened in the way the wheel rotates when travelling forwards. In other words, they can only get tighter when going forwards. Have looked on my centrelocks and it appears all the wheels are standard clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to unfasten. On the Ferrari I am sure that on the kerbside it is anticlockwise to fasten and clockwise to undo. Offside is clockwise to fasten and anticlockwise to unfasten. What am i missing?

The locking pin in the middle stops them moving I think. You are missing a 5 foot long Norbar torque wrench.

Yes, the splined, sprung center-pin snaps into place to the corresponding female spline of the lock bolt (it’s not a nut). IIRC there’s some fancy wrench device that enables you to turn the bolt without needing the faff of locking the brakes. PHer 993rsr had one.

Yes it's called the Renntorq Centerlock tool and costs.....£2550 plus VAT I think from 911 Design.

Snowy999 said: Yes it's called the Renntorq Centerlock tool and costs.....£2550 plus VAT I think from 911 Design. Thank you, yes that's the badger. Design 911 said: A motorsport grade torque multiplier is used to convert 95 lb-ft of manual input torque to 443 lb-ft of output torque. So you don't need a 7 foot long torque wrench or breaker bar. Clever stuff.

Snowy999 said: Yes it's called the Renntorq Centerlock tool and costs.....£2550 plus VAT I think from 911 Design. I am not sure what is special about this kit. I used to use a 3/4 drive torque wrench and long bar, by Precision Instruments. In fact I sold mine only last month. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drive-Torque-Wrench-Break...

Louis Balfour said: Snowy999 said: Yes it's called the Renntorq Centerlock tool and costs.....£2550 plus VAT I think from 911 Design. I am not sure what is special about this kit. I used to use a 3/4 drive torque wrench and long bar, by Precision Instruments. In fact I sold mine only last month. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drive-Torque-Wrench-Break... The design means you don't need to faff about braking the wheels to take them off. Plus it is a proper torque multiplier, not a lever, so more compact. As I say, 993rsr has one and is properly chuffed with it. I have zero cars with centrelocks and nothing to do with the product or Design 911, so I am not talking my own book.

Digga said: Louis Balfour said: Snowy999 said: Yes it's called the Renntorq Centerlock tool and costs.....£2550 plus VAT I think from 911 Design. I am not sure what is special about this kit. I used to use a 3/4 drive torque wrench and long bar, by Precision Instruments. In fact I sold mine only last month. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drive-Torque-Wrench-Break... The design means you don't need to faff about braking the wheels to take them off. Plus it is a proper torque multiplier, not a lever, so more compact. As I say, 993rsr has one and is properly chuffed with it. I have zero cars with centrelocks and nothing to do with the product or Design 911, so I am not talking my own book. Ah I see. I think my PI kit was $375 when I bought it. The method I used for braking the front wheels was to use a breaker bar wedged between the brake pedal and front seat. Not elegant, but effective. I think unless I was swapping CLs weekly I'd probably be fine with that solution!

I am not an expert and do not have centrelooks on any of my cars but that £2.5k tool looks remarkably similar to a normal torque multiplier... https://www.amazon.co.uk/FIRSTINFO-3-4-Torque-Mult...

LennyM1984 said: I am not an expert and do not have centrelooks on any of my cars but that £2.5k tool looks remarkably similar to a normal torque multiplier... https://www.amazon.co.uk/FIRSTINFO-3-4-Torque-Mult... If you could make it work with a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter (for the Porsche wheel bolt tool) then yes. Big saving.

One way to hold the brakes on, if you’re doing it solo, is to use a woodworking clamp. Reverse its pads and use it as a spreader between pedal and seat base. It locks in place while you tighten/untighten. irwin clamp thing

I used to use a 3/4 drive torque wrench and long bar, by Precision Instruments. In fact I sold mine only last month. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drive-Torque-Wrench-Break... [/quote] This is the one I have seen. They all seem to be out of stock though. Have a notice with PI to let me know when back in stock. I want one for emergency use only so don’t really fancy paying £2.5k. If anyone selling a PI one can you let me know?

£2.5k is way too much in my view just to avoid pressing the brake pedal when changing the front wheel ( handbrake does the job for the rear). Plus that pic is wrong as the car must be off the ground when removing or fitting the wheel. This whole setup cost me £400 https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

c4sman said: £2.5k is way too much in my view just to avoid pressing the brake pedal when changing the front wheel ( handbrake does the job for the rear). Plus that pic is wrong as the car must be off the ground when removing or fitting the wheel. This whole setup cost me £400 https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... This is what i want but everywhere says out of stock? Where did you get yours from? Thx Tony

AMTony said: This is what i want but everywhere says out of stock? Where did you get yours from? Thx Tony Bought mine new on eBay a few years ago from a US supplier, so waited a few weeks for it to arrive. US only product. I just did a search on eBay and found 2 or 3 that seem to be offering them in the at the moment. If you read through the thread I posted above there are some tips and tricks on getting the ideal set up with model numbers.

Just as another option (and I don't know the specifics of centrelocks so maybe it won't work) but I have a DeWalt impact gun that can deliver 950nm of "undoing" torque. Surely with the right bit, this would undo any centrelock? I can't remember exactly how much it cost me but with a 5ah battery and a charger it was less than £200. You'd need a 3/4 adapter but they are pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VXN7TUW?ref_=pe_270...

LennyM1984 said: Just as another option (and I don't know the specifics of centrelocks so maybe it won't work) but I have a DeWalt impact gun that can deliver 950nm of "undoing" torque. Surely with the right bit, this would undo any centrelock? I can't remember exactly how much it cost me but with a 5ah battery and a charger it was less than £200. You'd need a 3/4 adapter but they are pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VXN7TUW?ref_=pe_270... Unfortunately impact gun + Centrelock = big replacement / repair bills IMHO

c4sman said: £2.5k is way too much in my view just to avoid pressing the brake pedal when changing the front wheel ( handbrake does the job for the rear). Plus that pic is wrong as the car must be off the ground when removing or fitting the wheel. This whole setup cost me £400 https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Agreed. I get the convenience of the torque converter but 2.5K!!! Breaker bar, Norbar Break-back torque wrench and get the missus to fettle the brake pedal. 20 minutes tops to remove/fit all 4 wheels.

AMTony said: I was looking at buying a suitable torque wrench to remove wheels and as a result have been investigating which way tighten and untighten the large centre nuts. I thought that centrelocks all fastened in the way the wheel rotates when travelling forwards. In other words, they can only get tighter when going forwards. Have looked on my centrelocks and it appears all the wheels are standard clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to unfasten. On the Ferrari I am sure that on the kerbside it is anticlockwise to fasten and clockwise to undo. Offside is clockwise to fasten and anticlockwise to unfasten. What am i missing? A couple of tips if you decide on the Breaker Bar, Norbar break-back torque wrench solution: If you are removing the wheels solo then make sure you have the ignition on to enable the brake servo and use a wood clamp with the jaws reversed to secure the brake pedal against the drivers seat base. Screwfix sell Irwin clamps, soft jaws with a quality trigger ratchet. Front wheels have a tendency to move along the plane of the steering rack when torquing/undoing so be wary of the breaker bar/ torque wrench getting near your beloved bodywork.

Illya Kuryakin said: AMTony said: I was looking at buying a suitable torque wrench to remove wheels and as a result have been investigating which way tighten and untighten the large centre nuts. I thought that centrelocks all fastened in the way the wheel rotates when travelling forwards. In other words, they can only get tighter when going forwards. Have looked on my centrelocks and it appears all the wheels are standard clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to unfasten. On the Ferrari I am sure that on the kerbside it is anticlockwise to fasten and clockwise to undo. Offside is clockwise to fasten and anticlockwise to unfasten. What am i missing? A couple of tips if you decide on the Breaker Bar, Norbar break-back torque wrench solution: If you are removing the wheels solo then make sure you have the ignition on to enable the brake servo and use a wood clamp with the jaws reversed to secure the brake pedal against the drivers seat base. Screwfix sell Irwin clamps, soft jaws with a quality trigger ratchet. Front wheels have a tendency to move along the plane of the steering rack when torquing/undoing so be wary of the breaker bar/ torque wrench getting near your beloved bodywork. IIRC I used to use the breaker bar wedged between the brake pedal and driver's seat (with a cloth of course). No need for a special clamp.

I opted for a torque meter and 1m breaker bar, link to my recent thread here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... I'm not bought into the need for a torque multiplier or a gigantic torque wrench. I'm not a powerfully built person, at all, and have no issue with the 1m breaker bar.