Electrial connections Multdisplay audio

I'm installing a multi-display audio unit and does any one know where to pick up the reverse and parking brake signal wires so the backup display and DVD play back will work? 2001 C4 thanks,

Hello all. I hate to make another thread on the same issue - but I was hoping someone may have an idea of what is going on with my car. I have a 2007 Vantage manual. A few weeks ago, I was involved in a fender bender that required me to have my bumper, headlights, and grill fixed. The car is fixed, but is now having trouble starting up. We changed the battery and checked all of the fuses. The dash says "check battery reconnect" My mechanic narrowed the problem down the the fuel pump - indicating it is not getting any power. When he manually fed the fuel pump power, the car started up. I was told by another forum member that there is a inertia switch/comfort access module that trips when a car is in a collision. I have attached a picture of my CEM module - where I was only able to locate two relays. Relay#1 (which I circled in blue) and relay #2 (which I circled in red). We tried changing both the relays in the central electronics module fusebox without any luck. We were able to find out that there is not proper power flowing through relay #2 (in red). When a pin is manually connected at this relay (as my second picture indicates), the car starts right up. Again - when that relay was changed, it did not solve the problem. Im not sure what else to do at this point. Is there anything else that controls the fuel pump or FPDM? Or does anyone have an idea about an inertia/"comfort access" relay Thanks in advance for any help

I put mine right under where the shifter is. I bought a bypass kit and i think all it really needed was a good ground. Use a test light to find a good ground spot. I ran my reverse wires from the real tail lights to the head unit. Bought a $12 license plate reverse camera from amazon and it works great.

The car is telling you "Check battery disconnect "....I see all this diagnostic was done, but did anything think to check the battery disconnect switch? On the earlier vehicles you had to manually turn the switch back on, if you have your owners manual it will show you how to turn it off in the boot and how to turn it on via the switch behind the passenger seat near floor in front of battery. If you don't have a switch(later model), it's simply turned on by pressing the remote..Lock..Unlock..Lock..Unlock, usually only 1 time is required but I do it twice to avoid any hassle. Also when this switch is off, it will disable your fueling, it will also store a DTC for fuel cut-off...has anyone scanned the car for Dtc's?

The cluster displays "CHECK BATTERY OFF SWITCH". I have a 2007 Vantage, Manual. I searched and searched - but found no battery re-connect switch behind the pass side seat. I put a picture below of what it looks like behind my pass side seat. Unfortunately, I do not have the owner's manual to my car. I went to try the remote method just now and noticed that my lock/unlock buttons were not doing anything. All of the other buttons are working (yellow to switch on parking lights, red to sound the alarm, button to open the hatch) - however the lock and unlock buttons are not doing anything. I tried to manually lock and unlock the car using the key multiple times, but I'm not sure if that has any effect. Yes, we scanned the car for DTC's. The following codes come up p0500 - vehicle speed sensor p0463 - fuel level input out of range (high) p1233 - Fuel pump driver module disabled or offline We tried clearing the codes but did not make a difference. Furthermore, my cluster gauge is not fully working properly (Speedo, RPM, fuel gauges not moving). Im not sure if these issues are all related somehow. We are really not sure where to go from here but feel there is an electronic issue somewhere.

Ok, you don't have a switch to enable. You car is activated by the remotes..stupid question but did you try to lock with doors with bonnet/boot/doors all closed?..they need to be. Have you tried a hard reset..means disconnect the battery and jump both cables together..again WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. This will force a complete drain on the electrical system. Keep the battery off for 20 minutes..then connect cable. With all doors closed, try and lock, unlock...does it work? If at this point nothing has helped...jump the disconnect switch, take the cables off the switch(might want to disconnect the ground from the battery while doing so, not to short with chassis)..once cables are off switch, use a nut and bolt to secure them all together...do the lock/unlock/lock/unlock, now does the car start and function correctly?

it is also possible that the CEM codes may need to be erased before it will work the relay. Dealer visit for that.

I just tried what you suggested. 1. Hard reset - I disconnected the battery from the vehicle, then connected a jumper cable between the two cables feeding to the car for 30+ minutes (with the battery disconnected). When I re-connected, the lock/unlock feature was still not working. How can I be sure the hard reset worked? When I powered the car back on, all of my pre-set stations were still set. 2. Jumping the Disconnect Switch switch - I disconnected the cable going into the switch. It looks like 3 wires feeding into a connector. I connected the 3 wires together as pictured below. I did not do it exactly as you mentioned (with a nut and bolt) because I didn't want to rip the wires out, but I'm assuming this should yield the same effect? I also posted a picture of this to make sure it was done as you had mentioned. We erased the CEM codes using a standard OBD2 Scanner - again this did not make a difference. Not sure if there is anything else I can do before towing to the dealer. The tow on a flatbed and rate of 170/hour at my dealer will not be ideal, but will be my last resort if I cannot figure this out.

How were you able to erase the codes in the CEM? Do you a factory scan tool? I think you just erased the codes in the ECM, not the CEM. The CEM I thought could only be accessed with a factory scan tool. The CEM is that big white fuse box looking thing you changed the relays in. Let me know which scanner you used. I might want to pick that up too.

AMFixer - you are right, I must have just erased the ECM codes. I just used a standard OBD2 scanner to reset the codes. I wasn't aware that there are separate codes within the CEM

No, you don't jump the connector wires. I wanted you to jump the switch..take the large red cables off the switch and use a nut and bolt to fit them together, this way you can pass large amperage through...this tells me if the battery disconnect switch is causing the no start issue. Once you pair the cables together, again do the lock/unlock/lock/unlock. The fuel system is disabled because P1233 states so...that code needs to be diagnosed as to why the CEM will not allow it to clear in the PCM. By jumping the BDC, it might allow you to use the remotes and enable the fueling so that P1233 will clear. The door locks on the other hand..this requires a dealer scan to see why they are not operating..

What Irish said. Im guessing there is a code stored the CEM for crash input or something like that, which is not allowing the relay to work. Ive had that before

Yah, just the crash input code will be stored and not allow starting until the locks are cycled, which is why P1233 is stored in the PTEC..you need to get those door locks to cycle, otherwise fueling will stay disabled. Once cycled the crash input code will still be stored but not prevent starting, and P1233 will clear on it's own from PTEC.

Alright that makes sense. I just need to get the door locks to cycle. So far, nothing I have done has allowed me to lock/unlock using the key fob. I'm still not sure I follow how to jump the switch. I don't see any large red cables on the switch. I'm just seeing the cable with the 3 wires and connector feeding into the switch. I have attached a picture of my switch removed from the housing. Am I looking in the wrong place for these red cables?

try using the key to lock the doors. he means the big red cable at that box under the battery

I tried using the key to manually lock/unlock. When I do so, only the door I put the key in locks or unlocks (i.e.- driver side alone, or pass side alone). Furthermore, it does not work from inside the car.

that box under the battery that has the big red cables is the battery on/off switch. he wants you to jump those cable as he stated, to see if the car starts.

I see ...I'm not talking about the actual button that you press, I'm talking about the battery cut off switch or relay/module..it's the switch that button in your hand controls under the battery you will see a little black box, almost "t" shaped. There's 1 electrical connector and 3 red cables..1 red on top(along with other smaller gauge wires, need those connected also) and 2 red on the bottom. It's the 2nd picture you posted on this thread. Disconnect your battery, take those red cables off and pair them all together, then reconnect battery.. This bypasses the mechanical/electrical function of any power cut-off

THIS is the BDS being referred to and the associated cables to be jumped.

Hehe..hopefully all this helps. Also just a side note: 1 of the battery brackets is missing and whoever removed that carpet trim in front of the battery.. broke the panel, they could of just removed the 2 nuts holding the panel trim versus ripping it out and breaking it..aka CHAINSAW!!!!

Thanks for pointing that out. Yes I see now that it wasn't taken out properly. I think I figured out what you mean regarding jumping the switch. I just removed the switch from its place and connected all of the wires together and fastened using a bolt. I just connected them all on the top lug where the switch was initially mounted. Unfortunately, this did not work to start the car. I am also still unable to lock/unlock using the key fob.

Without having the car scanned, really starting to run out of idea's ..what are those water looking drops on the cut off switch connector plug and on the black plastic trim below? ..Battery acid? At this point you've completely bypass's the BDC, so it looks like the CEM is not allowing the vehicle to start..I don't presently think there's a problem with it but rather just it's disabling a system. You need to get the car scanned by someone with a AMDS, which is usually the dealer. Those remotes need to get working..and it could very well be you just need all the codes cleared and reset due to a crash status input like AMFixer was mentioning..although what puzzles me is even a crash input status should not stop the remotes from working, hence the reason this car needs to be scanned for all DTC's, problem could be right in front of our eyes with a possible stored DTC

Thanks all for your help - I have an update. So I took the car to a independant shop that deals with Bentleys and Astons. The gentleman there told me that the fusebox at the passenger side footwell is malfunctioning. When he jumped this fusebox, all of the features in the car that were not once functioning are now working fine (car is starting fine, the power seats are working again). He said te next step is to replace the entire fuse box. I called the dealer - the part is $900. They also said that the fuse box needs to be programmed for the vin of the car. My independant shop said otherwise. Does anyone have an idea if this fisebox actually needs to be programmed specifically to the vehicle? Sometimes, I can't believe everything the dealer tells me. (Once the BMW dealer told me they need 3 hours of labor to change an amplifier because it needs to be programmed...which I was able to replace with a simple swap)

Quotes source post: 4417450

Quote: Yes. That is correct. This not just a fuse box, that's a computer, it's called a CEM, central electronic module, it's the brain of the whole car. It stores the car configuration, remotes, and other options. You will need all the keys and remotes when changing it too.

Thanks for your reply. I will just need to have all of my keys/remotes present during this programming or I will actually have to have my keys/remotes replaced?

Quotes source post: 4417450

Quote: So you didn't go to the dealer and get the entire vehicle scanned for faults? That"fusebox" is called a CEM module. It's also in charge of cutting power to particular systems of the vehicle, including the fuel injectors. Like I've explained, if this module see's something it does not like, it will cut power...your bypassing the fuse to engage power..ok. Now is the module faulty and not allowing power through or is their a fault code flagged showing "why" it's not allowing those systems to power up. Your "garage that works on Bentley and Aston" needs to do some more research. That "fusebox" is indeed programmed to the vehicle by VIN. The VIN is stored in the PCM and CEM( "that fusebox"), all your vehicle options are stored in the CEM under a file called "config"...That CEM Ford used to install, is used on various other brands that had been under Ford roof at the time(it's a Volvo unit). All those other brands will also require programming. Now you can go find a junkyard CEM that's already programmed and then cross your figures that car had "every" option you had, it will work..but then you get a incorrect VIN correlation between PCM and CEM...ALSO you have to hope that car had less mileage than your car, otherwise that CEM will update your cluster to the higher mileage and is not reversible unless you find someone to roll back your mileage, but then you get a mileage tamper code because the cluster PCM mileage doesn't match up with total mileage driven in all gears recorded by TCU. BTW: I hope you have your key remote I.D codes, you might need them to program your remotes back to the car. If you don't have them..then replacing the CEM might require you to replace your remotes also with brand new unit... Judging your "garage" on the single statement you wrote of what they said...I would take my car and go to the dealer, especially if your considering paying 900$ for a CEM + remotes...what are you saving by using your local garage, espesically if he's wrong..or will he eat the cost of the parts not required that you bought for no reason? ..By going to the dealer, you might save 900$ + remotes, or you might actually require a CEM..but not scanning for codes and just jumping fuses doesn't rule the CEM as "faulty"

Quotes source post: 4417463

Quote: Cliff notes: bite the bullet and go to the dealership.

Adnanm3, Did you get to a solution with this inertia switch? I am having a similar issue with my 2006 V8 Vantage that I obtained in the USA. My issue is I am in Jamaica and there are no dealers so I have to solve this on my own. So I am reaching out to this forum for help and your issues sound very similar to what I am having. It started with a BDS check warning. I found the yellow button (battery reconnect switch) the low on the left of the passenger side, pushed it and the car regained power and allowed me to get all the way to pushing the red button. It then cranks, then briefly comes to life (teasing the heck out of me), then dies, then just cranks without starting thereafter. I have to disconnect the battery in order to get it back briefly come to life before dying again. The codes that repeatedly come up are P1233 (Fuel Pump Driver Module offline) and P2111 (Throttle Actuator Control Stuck open). Now I am assuming that during shipping here to JA and moving the container the car may have detected a bump and the container was moved and registered it as an accident and disabled the fuel pump as the car started in the USA and only showed codes for MAF sensor and misfire corrections. Looking for any guidance on the options. I am going to try the pin in Relay #2 and see if that works over the weekend. Any suggestions appreciated.