Removing Front Struts

In preparation for my Cayman R suspension retrofit, I'm researching the process of removing the OEM struts. I've read the "lowering spring install" article here and they suggest using spring compressors to get enough clearance to withdraw the top-mounts and swing it out of the fenders. Is there another way? I really don't like the look of those spring compressors hanging on to the lower spring perches. Can the lower control arms not be disconnected, as is done on the rear? Cheers!

I have never liked those spring compressors, though I have a set and have used them many times. Feels like a time bomb when you're handling them with the springs compressed. You can certainly disconnect the lower control arms, but of course you would need to have a comprehensive alignment done afterwards. You will probably need that anyway with your changeover.

+ 1 If you remove bolt for the lower control arm (coffin) at the subframe you will have plenty of room without removing the ball joint to remove the strut from the car 'then' you will require the spring compressors.

Great picture showing the sping bushing that is bonded to the top mount and there is one at the bottom of the spring as well that should be replaced to prevent creaks and pops and other noises when turning the steering wheel when not moving very fast or going over speed bumps.

Alanine, No you only remove the bolt that attaches the coffin LCA to the subframe, and this will provide enough room to clear the fender and swing the top of the strut assembly out of the way. Way easier if you have a helper as the hub assy. and the brake caliper are kind of heavy, and you may have to 'persuade' the strut out of the hub with a rubber mallet. I did the same job a couple of weeks ago within a couple of hours with help from my younger son. Good luck!

Thank you! I came across the Pelican Parts guide on removing the 986 front struts and they appear to use the same method as you describe, although they don't remove the coffin-to-subframe bolt completely, they just loosen enough to relax the rubber bushing to allow for rotation:

^^ yep just loosen that bolt and you won't have to worry about clearing the fender.

OK, finally getting around to this suspension upgrade! I took one of the front struts off last night, by loosening the inboard end of the coffin-arm, as suggested. It worked a treat, with no need to separate ball-joints or use compressors under the fender. I have a couple of questions: 1. Since the coffin-arm is attached to the subframe with a rubber bushing, it needs to be re-torqued with the car on the ground. It seems like it would be difficult/impossible to access & torque this with a wheel on the car and the car up on ramps. Is it possible to simulate this by (with the car on stands) putting a jack under the carrier and raising it slightly? I just don't see how else to access the bolt with the coffin-arm at the correct angle. 2. How do you torque the big 21mm nut at the top of the strut? You need to insert a 7mm allen key to prevent the piston from rotating, which means you can't get a socket on there. Is "tight" with a box-end wrench good enough? Or could I put a crows-foot on the end of the torque wrench and adjust the torque value appropriately? Thanks!

1) Jack stands will work fine. 2) Without a crows foot, which will mess up the torque value anyway, just use a new lock nut and make it tight

Thanks Josh! I think you can apply a correction to the torque if you use a crow's foot. But yeah, I think tight is good enough here! My problem now is that my spring compressors don't work to get the springs off the top mounts, so I've ordered a different style which will hopefully have more clearance. It looks like this has been a problem for others...

You have 2 choices for torquing this nut (as well as the box wrench approach): 1 - Purchase the 21mm deep socket with opening for inserting the Allen key. Several sites sell these in different sizes. Try ECS Tuning for the Schwaben Strut Tool. 2 - Purchase a 21mm deep socket and with a bench grinder, create your own version by grinding away a slot big enough to allow fitting the Allen key with the tool in place on the strut.

What exactly are you referring to for the bushing at the bottom of the spring? I'm chasing down a binding type noise when turning at low speeds front right. So far, I have eliminated all the usual stuff...control arms, sway bar bushings, steering components, strut bearing, strut bushing, ball joints, etc. and the only thing I can think of is the strut itself. The noise is coming from the spring with the suspension both loaded and unloaded. Thanks!

There is a video from fat guy's showing a top shock bearing that has some slop between the shock and spring, so he used heavy duty tape around the top of the shock, which failed again and made noise. I would get a new bearing and have it fitted. Not a easy fix but I you are using OEM struts and springs, then a stock bearing would do the job. My bad, no need for a rubber bearing on the bottom between the springs and the perch. See post #7 of this thread showing a new rubber bearing. Your rubber may have degraded allowing the top of the shock to move around.

Thanks.....i have already replaced the bearing and the bushing. With the steering disconnected (outer tie-rods), and the sway bar disconnected, when I manually turn the wheel carrier back and forth I can feel and hear some binding. This is with "new lower control arm bushings and ball joints. Baffling. There does appear to be some damage (some scrapes on the LCA, outer tie-rod end) like the previous owner hit a curb or something. At this point I would like to try a new/used strut if I can find one. Not looking for aftermarket coli-overs at this time.

If it's not the outer ball joint I doubt it has anything to do with the LCAs. I have the complete OE struts from my 987.1 with 50k on them, they've just been sitting around the shop for years...

Reviving an old thread here just so I can get some confirmation (affirmation? ). I need to replace the left front strut bearing and mounting plate on my '11 Cayman . Am I correct that if I follow the instructions as set forth in the Lower Spring Install article ( https://www.planet-9.com/reviews/ca...s/p33-h-26amp-3br-2f-eibach-2f-techart-2f-bilstein-lowering-spring-install.html ) but then also loosen the bolt holding the LCA to the subframe that I won't need to use spring compressors until after I have the strut removed? TIA!

It's a little extra work, mainly because I couldn't find a decent spring compressor that I could safely use on my 2012 Cayman R. I removed the entire wheel carrier and lowered the strut while still attached. Search youtube. Fairly easy and straightforward. Make sure to have proper tools. Once off, I took my stuts to a professional shop and used a proper spring compressor, and replaced the bearings.