Secondary Air System Not Ready. Emissions Test

2005 Boxster Base . I don't hear the fan coming on from a cold start. I'm not sure if it is because of the not ready status. No check engine lights. Connected the Durametric and I am able to turn on the secondary air injector fan when the car is off. My durametric tool doesn't turn on devices while on (durametric issue). I went through plenty of different drive cycles. Cannot pass emissions test due to: Evaporative System Not Ready Secondary Air System Not Ready Any other options? Can the dealer force the two systems to be ready? Thank you. I found the below to get the system ready but the drive cycles didn't work. ------------------------------------ Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs. Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins. Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins. 1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge. 2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge. 3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR , air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. 4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions. 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again. 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR , fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions. 7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge. just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes: Idle 1500 2000 2500 3000 Idle the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens. Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs. Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins. Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins. 1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge. 2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge. 3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR , air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. 4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions. 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again. 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR , fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions. 7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge. just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes: Idle 1500 2000 2500 3000 Idle the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens. ---------------------------------------------- 1) RESET your OBD the night before doing this drive (do this even if you have no CEL) 2) Cold start the car and drive 25 highway miles doing 60-70mph in 6th gear (SUV style). Leave the scanner connected. 3) Pull over, turn off car, restart. 4) Continue driving 60-70mph in 6th gear until the CAT and HTR monitors get set. This should happen in about 20 minutes. 5) Idle a minute or so. EVAP will set. The above drive sets 3 monitors you need to get tested everywhere except CA. CA needs a 4th monitor set (still avoiding AIR) so additional driving needs to be done, just not sure what that is yet. Stay tuned. Something else: this technique will NOT work for some (probably all) 96's. That's because they don't display monitors being ready until all 5 are ready. For this to work, the car needs to be able to report monitors going ready one at a time. 97's can do this. Not sure about 98's. ------------------------------------ STEP 1: RESET the OBD2 system using the OBD2 reader (or disconnect/reconnect the car battery). This will clear any faults and make all 5 monitors NOT READY, which is want you want. Do this the night before or right before starting the procedure. STEP 2: Find a place to drive a minimum of 20 miles at less than 60mph and less than 3000 RPMs. 55 in 5th gear works fine. Cruise control helps. I believe this can be done in different segments provided the car isn’t turned off until the 20 miles is completed, but to make sure, start out by doing it all at once. It’s faster that way too. STEP 3: Turn car off, remove key, restart. Don’t let the car cooldown. All 5 monitors should still be off. May not be necessary to remove the key but that’s the way I did it. I let the car sit for at least a minute before restarting. STEP 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3 All 5 monitors should still be off. STEP 5: Repeat step 2. Somewhere between 13 and 18 miles into this leg the CAT and O2 Heater monitors will go READY. Sometimes EVAP goes ready at the same time. If not. Do step 6. STEP 6: Come to a stop without turning the car off and idle in neutral until the EVAP monitor goes ready. This should take less than 5 minutes. You now have the required THREE monitors ready.

2000 miles later and still secondary air system not ready fuel tank ventilation not ready I'm driving on expired plates since the dealership says you need to drive it and the DMV says I can't drive unless I pass emissions. Ugh

Not sure if this is related but might help you track down what is going on. I know my secondary air pump works fine as I can hear it shut off after the predetermined time on cold starts. Plus I can turn it on and off through my Durametric. I had a CEL not long ago where the error was related to the EVAP system. Error was that the test pump wasn't working. Using Durametric I could trigger and hear the purge valve, but could not hear not the test pump. Tests were done with engine off, key on. At least in my car it's one unit that is located in the frunk. I hooked up the new pump and tested it with Durametric and the pump ran fine. It's not much louder than an aquarium air pump so it might be difficult to hear when everything is buttoned up. Maybe your purge valve is not working correctly and is triggering the secondary air system error. If I remember correctly the screen to test the pump and purge valve is under engine, activations. The evap system is not all that complicated. Just a test to make sure the fuel tank and such is still sealed. If you determine you need to replace the pump/purge valve, shop around a bit to find the best price. OE is very expensive, but a Bosh unit can be had for much less. One last thing just to be sure, from my understanding the "secondary air system" is an air pump that blows air into the exhaust manifolds at startup to help the cats heat up faster. Thus the high idle when you start the car and switch over to regular idle after about 90 seconds. This is not to be confused with the engine compartment fan that only comes on when it gets really toasty. If you are running the secondary air pump, and it's running fine then the passages in the head and/or exhaust manifolds might be plugged with carbon.