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YOUR RESEARCHCoolant change help please
Leading reported evidence
Replace engine so i decided
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had an absolute pig of a time bleeding my C4S when I changed the engine so I decided to fully drain it down again and try to get everything out including any air locks.
Disconnect feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes
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Suggestion
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s.
Leading evidence: 'Replace engine so i decided' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'm hoping others have changed their coolant and someone has a top tip for draining.
Use comma xstream red at the strongest effective ratio
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used comma xstream red at the strongest effective ratio which is around 50/50 from memory
Disconnect feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes
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Suggestion
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Disconnect feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had an absolute pig of a time bleeding my C4S when I changed the engine so I decided to fully drain it down again and try to get everything out including any air locks.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
that's effectively what Pelican said but I don't really fancy getting right under there using axle stands, the larger pipes can be a bu**er to shift too.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
4 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T011819Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I'm fitting an LTT and decided to change the coolant at the same time.
The old coolant is green so not OAT, it also looks pretty cloudy so needs changing. I've drained the engine end (drain plug and thermostat off) and taken the lower hoses off the rads but that's only drained about 15l. I have the heater on as per Pelican but they suggest taking off the main front/rear pipes and I don't really fancy that on axle stands.
Any ideas about how I get the rest out? I do plan to give it a bit of a flush with water before refilling but 7l is a lot of old antifreeze.
Thanks
Mike
I would reconnect the rad lower hoses and disconnect the feed pipes off the supply and return rubber pipes which connect onto the engine hard pipes just below the gearbox on the o/s. They are about 20mm I/D and you could connect a hosepipe to one side and flush until it runs clear and then drain as before. I don't think you'll get it all out.
I used comma xstream red at the strongest effective ratio which is around 50/50 from memory
Thanks Harv,
that's effectively what Pelican said but I don't really fancy getting right under there using axle stands, the larger pipes can be a bu**er to shift too.
I'm hoping others have changed their coolant and someone has a top tip for draining.
I've got the new stat in place, the top bolt isn't easy, even with the water rail loosened but I have a good selection of bendy extensions and wobble bars, definitely a job for the 1/4" socket set.
I'm also using Comma xstream red at 50/50 but I'll flush it all first. Luckily I have plenty of distilled water courtesy of my garage dehumidifier.
As silly as it sounds - tilting the car helps a lot.
I had an absolute pig of a time bleeding my C4S when I changed the engine so I decided to fully drain it down again and try to get everything out including any air locks.
I drained it flat on stands and then put one end higher and then the other end higher and the extra amount that came out was considerable. I then flushed as well as a precaution. Slowly filled again and no problems at all with bleeding. I can only conclude that first time I drained it flat, I didnt get enough out and as a result when I refilled, I introduced a nice air lock.
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