Door lock puzzle

Sorry for the long post but this isnt the usual how to get into the car query. Ever since I've had the car the door would not lock or unlock with the key. I presume it's the original key as it's the same as the ignition key. I assumed the metal spade that engages with the door latch had broken or was misaligned. Finally got round to taking off the inner and outer door handle and the spade is fine. Having found this article http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/45967-how-fix-broken-lock-cylinder-20-dollars-2.html I thgought that one of the collars were broken, so I now have the lock apart and the internals are fine, the bunny ears are intact so, what is the source of the problem? The key does not just rotate freely, when assembled it feels as though you have to force it but it does rotate. When the collars are off the cylinder rotates fine, when I put it all back together it won't turn freely again. Anyone have any ideas , apart from spending £250 on a new inner door handle and living with 2 keys rather than one? Also, when the lock is taken apart, I still cannot fully remove the lock barrel, it comes out by about 5 mm only, is it not meant to come out or is there a knack? :?

Im not 100% sure on the description but the key doesnt lock or unlock the car .. The barrel for the key has a rod with what looks like a spade on the end , this goes into the door lock asembly . The micro switches are engaged as this rod turns via the key in the barrel . if nothing works then to me its a doof lock assembly fault ( micro switch failure ) or the wiring from the lock to the alarm control unit . It could in theory be an alarm contol unit fault (water damage ) or a possibly a codeing issue but you would need a teser for that to see the values .. actually a tester would also tell you if the alarm CU was actually seeing the door barrel move . Door handles dont really effect the key unless partially jammed .. the outer door handle has a rod which if too tight will stop the car door from opening or closeing .. cant really stop it from locking though . A quick check for the wiring although ive only seen this on Boxsters .. the harness for the wiring in the A post .. there is a T20 screw and it lifts out and up to remove the cover .. if broken at the top tab then water will get in .. corroded wires cause all sorts of problems .

Thanks dmort. I don't think its a problem with the electrics as the car locks and unlocks on the fob fine, also when I have inserted a screwdriver into the female coupling that the spade at the end of the lock cylinder engages into I can lock and unock the car manually. So the locking mechanism works, the mechanical linkage between the key and the lock mech is all in place, it's just that turning the key doesn't rotate the spade linkage.

Aghhh i see .. well perhaps the cotter pin in the picture has broken ..

Thanks deMort Thats what I thought or one of the rings inside which commonly break their "bunny ear" tabs but they all look normal. So a consultation in person earlier today with Martin Brown and we think that the lock cylinder is broken. the logic behind that is that all of the bits by the spade look ok when you take it apart but when you have done that the cylinder should drop out when the key is in, however it only drops about 5mm. When it's all assembled the key does not actually turn the locking mechanism, whereas when the "bunny ears" are broken, normally the key rotates freely but doesn't turn the spade. So a call to Douglas valley and a door handle and lock mech with a working blade from a 986 is on its way for £50 , a lot cheaper than the alternative at over £250 for the new part. I'll just have to live with 2 keys (which is a bit of a first world problem), I've lived without a working key operated door lock for 5 years so I think I'll manage with 2 keys. Just a shame that the door is in pieces during the first bit of fine weather this year!