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Changing the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) on jackstands - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

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YOUR RESEARCHChanging the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) on jackstands - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

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Disconnect connector at the end of the cps cable

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Suggestion · Original poster
Next disconnect the connector at the end of the CPS cable, it is a bit hard to get at, squeeze the clip on the bottom connector and pull it out of its metal bracket, then squeeze a second clip to separate the male and female connectors.
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Changing the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) on jackstands - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

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Leading evidence: 'Disconnect connector at the end of the cps cable' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect connector at the end of the cps cable' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Frequently discussed actions (1)

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Disconnect connector at the end of the cps cable

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Reported fixes: 0
Unsuccessful attempts: 1
Discussions

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Discussions that contain suggestions: 1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

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Suggestion · Original poster
Next disconnect the connector at the end of the CPS cable, it is a bit hard to get at, squeeze the clip on the bottom connector and pull it out of its metal bracket, then squeeze a second clip to separate the male and female connectors.
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Changing the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) on jackstands - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

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3 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I had an intermittent crank no start problem which I suspected was the CPS. Changing this sensor is a bit of a challenge so here are some tips. Here is what you are dealing with, on an engine out of the car. Get the car off the ground with enough clearance to be able to work underneath (24 inches is fine, perhaps you can do with less). You can get an L shaped allan key on the CPS allan screw working from behind the anti-sway bar and the half shaft, but I couldn't get enough torque on it to loosen the screw and I was afraid of stripping the head of the screw... so I came at it a different way. I removed the right rear wheel, this allows you to get at the screw with a ratchet and a very long extension. An advantage of doing it this way is you can get your allan socket and extension on the screw and hammer on the end of the extension which both helps to loosen the threads and makes sure the socket is really well inserted in the screw. I removed the plastic bracket that holds the cable from an O2 sensor that is in the way of inserting the extension. It is a 10mm bolt accessed from behind the anti-sway bar and the half shaft. The cable from the CPS is clipped into the end of this bracket, so disengage it also. With the screw removed the CPS can be pulled out of the crankcase. Next disconnect the connector at the end of the CPS cable, it is a bit hard to get at, squeeze the clip on the bottom connector and pull it out of its metal bracket, then squeeze a second clip to separate the male and female connectors. The CPS can then be removed. My biggest challenge during reassembly was getting the connector back in its metal bracket, have a close look at it before you install it so you see how it goes into the bracket. Having long slim arms helps.

POST 2Original post

Good info, let us know if it fixed the starting issue

POST 3 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 657493

I did this on November 30 and here in Québec you need snow tires from December 1, so I just had a half day to test it before storing it for the winter. I did a couple of runs to get the engine up to temperature and it stared afterwards each time... so it looks to be OK. On March 16 I'll be able to put it back on the road and I'll know for sure.

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