Cabrio Top Problem

Need some additional information on the troubleshooting the cabriolet top issues. Top went down and now it wont go back up. The clamshell was working but not the top. After pressing by hand on the clamshell to complete the close cycle now its stuck almost closed. However now the top tries to close but won't because its trapped under the clamshell. I suspect the microswitches control module is out of whack, I believe its time to rebuild or replace the hydraulics. It's a 99 C2. I tried the microswitch adjustment near the flaps no effect. I will continue searching the forums found schematics and bypass way to raise the top. I have not done it yet. I want to avoid a trip to the dealer to calibrate or diagnosis charges. http://www.cabriolethydraulics.com/articles.php

Hello all. I am having issues starting my 2007 V8 Vantage Manual. At first the dash displayed "check battery disconnect switch" which I made sure was not activated. I also changed the battery. When i start the car, it cranks continuously but does not start. The dash displays there is no fuel in the car, however the tank is full (I just put in 5 gallons and topped it off) I ran a diagnostic at my friends shop and it states the following errors: P1233: Fuel Pump Driver Module off line U0001: High Speed CAN communication BUS It seems like there is a problem with the fuel pump, seeing that the car is showing no gas and the p1233 error. Is there any way to determine if this could be a faulty relay or fuse before I go ahead an buy a new fuel pump module? I unfortunately do not have the fuse diagram. Does anyone know what fuses and relays are responsible for the fuel pump system? Also any idea on how/where to access the fuel pump module? Thanks in advance

You might be low on fluid. Common problem with the leaking hydraulic rams.

Don't confuse fuel pump with fuel pump driver module.

Check your owner's manual for the way you can manually raise the top. Once you get it most of the way up, and with the clamshell fully open, you can remove the panel behind the rear seats to access the hydraulic pump for the top mechanism. Renntech.org has good, photo-laden instructions for checking and topping up fluid. Good luck.

You should see if someone other than a friend with a shop has better skills or at least more knowledge of the vehicle. What's the history and how long has it been in this condition?

Thanks for the the tips, At this point I have no choice but to manually raise the top. I was wondering if I have a bad engine cover switch or a broken clam shell latch/switch. the whole recalibration of the top after the repair sounds like a trip to the dealer. I have a friend with the Durametric tool but I don't think it works on my application. I have no issues dealing with low fluid,cables or leaks. Still searching around for all the data,before I tackle it. So far found help on the general system overview from Pelican parts Cabriolet Hydraulics and Renntech.

Fuel pump module is not sending its monitoring signal check to the PCM. Read the attached OBD2 info, check fuse F9 in trunk, see attached circuit diagram. FPDM is hard to get to, see picture.

As you troubleshoot, take a look at 996 Convertible Top Mechanism Issues which may provide additional helpful hints. Mark/Pelican Parts

Wow, thank you so much for the information! With the code my car is giving, I am assuming either one of the fuses/relays is bad, or the actual Fuel pump driver module is bad. I will start by checking all of the fuel pump related fuses: -Fuse F9 in the trunk, Relay #2 in the trunk, and Diode#1. -I also found some fuel pump related fuses in front of the passenger side seat (Although not labeled for fuel pump driver module - but the fuel pump itself): Fuse #47 and 74 under the pass side footwell are for the fuse pump. If none of these are the culprit, my next step will be to replace the Fuel pump driver module. Does anyone know if this requires programming by the dealer? Unfortunately, the nearest dealer is miles away and would be a costly tow....which is the only reason I am trying to get the problem resolved at the shop that the car already is.

I'm at a loss here. I'm stuck in the open position. I tried the emergency close mode listed in the owners manual, Turned the crew at least 90+ times counter clockwise with no results. Did the cables snap? if they did I should be able to pull the clamshell open by hand. There must me a latch that's stuck or broken in the close position. while cranking the screw it seemed to lose tension after turn 10, now it seems to be just spinning. Electric motor runs for a ±10 seconds then times out. any tips would be great I haven't seen this problem posted. BTW:looking through the open flaps with a flashlight the rams seem dry, not indicating a leak.

I wonder if the error is similar to those found in Ford's: F150 & Expedition No Start P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module - YouTube Same code found in F150 & Expedition, and same symptoms (Crank, No Start P1233) As this year vantage is from the Ford years, i'm just curious if this could be a similar issue (even though our FDPM is not located externally as in the Ford)

I have tried to unbolt the clam shell through the flaps, had success with the front set the back set have limited access. I will keep trying. just picked up a 90° angle chuck adapter. I read a post on pulling the roll bars out and accessing the motor and cables through the back seat. the information wasn't complete. Thats done now anyone have any ideas? Pictures of what to release? I found lots of tips on the 986 The black flap that covers the latch fell off a few weeks ago didn't think much of it until this issue. See part 30

Do you still have the "Check battery switch" msg in the dash? You have to resolve this issue first otherwise fuel will be cut from priming and injecting. You also have a CAN bus fault..I would track the battery switch msg and CAN fault.. It might lead you to replacing the FPM, but at least you would have been faulted guided into doing so. First make sure the batt switch is passing the voltage through the switch and not just on the stay alive circuit feed... And then with the batt connected, check the CANHS and CANLS voltages in pins 3+11 and 6+14 of the diag port on body and 6+14 on engine. Then with batt disconnected check the resistance through the CAN circuits and make sure your at 60ohms. If all checks out, check the voltage/ground/CAN at the FPM and confirm circuits are good. You can bypass the module(not for long) and confirm the issue is the module if you can prime the pump and get fuel pressure.

Update! Got the clam shell open.... back seats removed, pop up roll bar removed, clamshell electric motor removed. Then inserted a 1/4" extension into the clam shell transmission then cranked it open. I will add some fluid, it closed on it's own but needed a bit of help at the end of the travel. now I have to figure out if the motor is bad or the micro switches are bad.

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Quote: Hi, from across the pond, I'm chasing down the same issue on my UK 05 V8V and found your useful thread. Triggered when I disconnected (good) battery for a hard reset to try and solve strange fault code for ABS/DTC module. (P0050 DTC Brake control module disturbance detection [radio frequency interface]) Have "Check battery off switch on DIM and temp gauge on full, check engine light on, trip milage showing - - - - , DTC unavaiable, Brake failure stop safely, which is what the owners manual describes as expected if "BDS pushed accidently" Irish, could you clarify "Stay alive feed" please? On the bottom stud of the battery reset switch I get 0V when BDS switch is pressed and battery voltage when the reset switch is reset. Does this verify power supply? Have U0001 and followed your voltage CAN checks as above. No voltage across 3 + 11, 4 + 16 body plug and 4 + 16 engine plug. Thanks in advance, Quad

Seems like my problem originated with the rear latch flap breaking off, and the canvas top stopping the travel of the rear latch. hopefully this will save someone else the headaches I went through and now having to replace the clamshell drive assembly,then getting it calibrated. See post # 12 below for the part that failed. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...p-calibration/

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Quote: You should have battery voltage out of the BDS when it's not active. When you have 0v, means the switch is active and keeping the circuit open and not sending power to the vehicle from battery, or the switch has fried itself and stuck open circuit..this happens when a positive cable or terminal contacts with chassis/negative(during a repair, like changing starts or alternator with batt still connected), it instantly kills the BDS. I'm sure you have booster cables, use them to jump the switch and see if the vehicle functions normal. If it does, means you have a dead BDS that would need to be replaced.

Hopefully you didn't warp the cables that drive the clamshell when you forced it closed. I believe you originally had a microswitch issue, possibly the plastic "hood" on the hook fell off. What is the status of the roof? Is it fully latched and allows rear windows to go up and down?

Update: managed to take further measurements from both DTC plugs as suggested by Irish's post above. 0 volts at pins 3 + 11 and 6 + 14 on the body port and 6 + 14 on the engine port. Resistance readings with battery disconnected, body port, across pins 3 + 11 - 61 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 59 ohms, pretty much as suggested. Engine port, across pins 3 + 11 - 121 ohms, across pins 4 + 16 - 0 ohms/open loop. Suggestions please as to where to go/test next. Finding the wiring diagram I have unclear as to wire colours and pin numbers and which components are which pins located. Thanks again in advance, quad. Images of readings described ​

I plan to replace the entire assembly unless that cable for the rear latch is sold separately. Waiting for some dealer quotes. Does anyone know how this motor goes back together? My guess is that the screw snapped when I was trying to perform the emergency operation. The hook is fine and the rest of the system seems to work now that the fluid is topped off.

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Quote: 120ohms on engine is normal because there's only 1 module with 1x 120ohms resistor. On the body plug 60ohms is expected because you have 2x 120ohms resistor wired in parallel. You also have 0V on all the pins because you have zero battery power feeding the canbus system. Do as I suggested in yesterday's reply, that will lead you towards a direction to follow.

Dealer quote is going to knock your socks off. Check ebay item#271379728500 for example of used price. (slightly newer setup item#271377727035) Looks like the bolt for the clamshell snapped. It should have that square piece attached and the spring would go under the bolt. (motor onto case, then spring then bolt) Have you opened up the black gear casing to see if the "foot" of the slider portion is bused? Or just manually turn the unit to completion and see if the square piece lifts up out of the case and presses the final microswitch. I believe you need to run a calibration sequence from a PIWIS after replacing needed parts.

Cheers for the clarification on the resistances Irish. Am confident the BDS is working corectly, (used a booster cable across it, no difference) now need to chase the feed for CAN network. The wiring diagram I've downloaded from FB group isnt as clear as the ones @rmrmd1956 posted so need them if you got them, please? Sheet 25 perhaps? Will ask him for them too. Cheers, Quad

Thanks for the tips and part numbers. I have not taken the gear casing apart since the rear latch does not travel at the beginning or the end of the cycle. I can move the rear latch cable toward the micro switch and back by hand only, and it drives the rear hook to close and lock the clamshell. I'm closing it manually until I have replacement parts. Ebay looks like the best option comes with a motor and potentiometer.

Hi @rmrmd1956 Do you have the wiring diagram similar to the ones you posted previously? Much clearer and easy to follow than what I've downloaded from the FB group. Looking for power supply to the CAN network. Page 25 maybe? Cheers, Quad

So the dealer in Oregon got back to me a new drive assembly is $680.00, used on Ebay $375.00 the used part claims to have only 20k on it. I dont know if these parts weaken over time or just break when the latch gets caught in the canvas top. I decided to go with the E Bay part from an 03 996 cab.

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Quote: You can always pay for a day subscription to https://technicalhub.astonmartin.com/amtis/ , and download all the information you need straight from AML. If you have power going through the BDS, that means your CEM is dead/offline. You don't have a canbus issue, you have a power issue. Modules cannot send canbus voltage unless they have power, trace down why your CEM module is not powering up and odds are you will find the route cause.

Looks like what happened on my '99 (sold). Previous owner let the canvas guard fall off and caught the top, snapped the "foot" off the clamshell drive.

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Quote: Thanks for that, I wasn't aware of that technical subscription possibility. Quad

Yikes! I know these are a mess to work on (particularly for those non-mechanically inclined folks such as myself)...

The fix took less than 2 hours and a trip to get the top calibrated. The time consuming part was the education and the theory of operation. Had some great help from other forums and B8_RDC who gave me the part numbers. I lucked out and got a great used part from an 03 Cab with 18,000 miles These cars seem extremely easy to work on if you do your homework. Replacing the drive unit was easy (2) nuts (2) clips and (4) bolts. It was nice to work on the top of the can instead of under it.

Nice work, glad you made sure to include the clips. I've seen a few with those missing and makes me wonder if the drive bars could pop off.

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Quote: Thank you Pelican, Would you happen to have anything that shows how the side flaps work on a 99 C4 Cab? Mine seem to intermittently move or stick depending on their mood. Marc

I've read that using teflon spray on the screw mechanism part of the flaps can help. Cycle them a bit after covering it.

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Quote: My 2002 996 C4 cabriolet just went for a service to fix the cab top issue. It would not close despite a recent hydraulic fluid top-up. Turned out to be a poor battery, low hydraulic fluid as well as worn out pistons and and some fasteners. A 3K service. My PCA membership saved me $285

Oh the joys of a cabriolet. Anyone interested in a PIWIS tool to do home calibrations of their top check sales or PM me.

Jayi836 Thanks for tips... I have a similar problem let me explain and you tell me if this was yours..i took the gear casing apart (blue section attached to motor) and ll the parts are good and in the right place. i even bought a kit just to verify. but when i try to open the clam shell by dashboard switch i can hear something but the clam shell does nothing. so then i get my 1/4 inch tip and extension & ratchet and i can open the hook to the clam shell, then i see the clam shell open (all manually) I can move the rear latch cable toward the micro switch and back by hand only, all manually only. is this what happened to you.? 2. so was your problem the drive mechanism 996.561.021.03 3. or little motor and blue piece.?

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Quote: I cant find the part number in my eBay history from 2014, I also sold the car 2 years ago. My issue was the center rear latch got caught in the fabric top and chewed up the cable transmission, It was stuck closed. It took taking everything apart to release the drive assembly freeing the cables to get the clam-shell raised to replace the entire unit. PM if you still need help.