Fabspeed cold air intake update

Just want to tell everyone the fabspped unit came in today and just looking at the instructions looks fairly easy to do. I'll will install it later tonite and let u guys know if ne difference. If it makes the sound better thats enough for me if a little power gain is icing on the cake : ). Joe from Fabspped stated just from airbox alone u mite realize 8-10 hp. The transaction ran quite well though a bit delayed but he kept me up to date and all. take care '99 996 coupe red/black b&m shifter ruf pedals fabspeed cold airbox in time suspension/exhaust/rims : ).

I installed it yesterday. I could not here any difference in sound. Maybe because of the fabspeed muffler, which has already a great sound.:-) But the throttle response is recognizable. cu styx

Hi Gang, Well I put mine on last Fri. Good quality stuff. Nice touch doing it in carbon fiber. Maybe you can feel it maybe you can't. Sometimes I'm just happy to have added something that helps and I think I feel it. You can hear it if you pay attention, it starts around 4,200 RPM. It has a little more intake sound. Has to help, just by removing the expansion chamber that took up about 25% of the air box to begin with!!! And taking out the plastic screen has to help as well. Best part ...no check engine light!!! (Joe next time get the hoses in Yellow :-) ) Armando

Maybe i could not hear any difference because i am to excited over 4200 rpm. My car gets better and better. The next will be the RoW MO30, is already on the way. And than my first DE in Jan. cu styx

All - I just installed the fabspeed intake on my 2000 996. Already has the fabspeed exhaust. I'm taking it to the racers group next week to get a Unichip installed and dyno tuned where they'll do an "as is" dyno run with the exhaust and intake and a "post unichip" dyno run. I'll post the dyno curves when I get them.

I forgot to mention my 996 also has an Autothority chip installed in the DME (new flash chip re-soldered in place of the stock one). Racers Group expects 10-20HP on top of that chip. Should be interesting!

Mark, Do you feel any differnces with the chip ? Perry

Can anyone explain the difference in performance from the Fabspeed unit vs. the BMC replacement filter? I would like to look into either of them. What are the trade offs?

Hello guys who love to modify just heard styx's soundbite on his fabspeed exhaust. Its totally awesome soundwise. By the way styx where did u purchase your mo30 suspension. I been thinking about that as well but first gotta tinker inot that fabspped exhaust. Sounds pretty awesome!!!!

Err, none since they both work together ... I have the BMC F1 and the modified airbox/air hose/MAF mask delete.

996FLT6: I orderd the MO30 from this web site : www.carnewal.com Graham: Do you know what MAF means ? cu styx

Thanks styx on the mo30 info. I think MAF stands for "Mass Air Flow"later

Graham, Do you feel a bigger difference by using the 2 units together than to use just either one of them?

Hi all, I just got mine today as well. Not much to it for $200 plus dollars. Anyway, there were no intructions in the box, did anyone else get them? It appears pretty straight forward, how hard can three pieces be to figure out. Thanks, I look forward to the dyno results you produce. Dennis

You can look on the web site the before and after picture tell you all you need to know. 1) Remove air box 2) Open airbox 3) remove expansion chamber 4) install plug where chamber was 5) remove thick plastic grill. 6) Install "Smoothing" ring (I glued mine in place) 7) hook up red hose (loose) 8) Put air box back in hooked to red hose. 9) go drive and enjoy your new "go fast" parts!

I notice stronger pull above 4K with the Autothority chip. Expect more at lower RPM with Unichip dyno tuned.

Does the new fabspeed airbox void any factory warantees? Don Watson

Installed my Fabspeed box with a BMC F1 filter and blocked off the hot air intake ( lower right of bottom part of air box) with ABS plastic sheeting. Drove the car hard for 150 miles for computer relearn. Before mod, I got 3rd gear 60-100 ( Tiptronic) in 7.8 - 8.0 seconds. Now it's 6.8 seconds ,about 7-9 car lenghths . Two way average , several runs. The intake sound takes on a deeper,loder, growly honk above 4500 rpm , especially between 5300-5800 rpm. I have the stock exhaust.

Hard to say as I've had so much done to my car now that it's unrecognizable compared to stock. I went from base to a config with Fabspeed headers/exhaust and a new engine mgmt & tip mgmt chip plus with the F1 filter. This was a huge difference in drivability. The new airbox and bits went on a couple of weeks ago and I'd say that you notice a different intake noise (growl/whine) and it does seem to have a faster take up at the top end. Not very scientific I'm afraid.

Indeed I do ... Mass Air Flow sensor. The grill on the sensor is normally used to straighten air flow but I think in this instance it's removed and the new lip on the sensor improves breathing. Not unusual to do this. Graham

Graham did u use Fabspeed headers and exhaust and if u did was the header section took more time to do compared to the exhaust. Ive been thinking about it and talking with Joe and I'm pretty sure I like to get it done just want to know how complicated it is to install. take care. mike

Hi there and good evening!!! Sorry for the delay in the update but with the Holidays coming up I finally installed the Fabspeed cold air airflow unit. Took about an hour for me to install it. Results(early)- I do notice a different sound emitting when it hits 4200 rpm and up. Sounds like massive amounts of air being forced in kinda like a spooling sound and prolonged(my best way to describe which maybe different then others). And definitely there is more throttle response after 4,000 rpm. I'm pretty happy with the results and i'll more then likely get into the next stage beginning of next year on the exhaust/header combo. In terms of installation the instructions given werent too detailed but if u take your time its fairly straight forward. All u need is a phillips screwdriver and regular one. For those who want to try themselves this is how i did it: 1) remove clamp from the hose on the left with the yellow cap and set it away from working field 2) there are two clamps for the other cable on the rt side which u just spread open and to remove the cable link to the airbox just pinch the sides and itll disengage then set that aside away from working field 3) then with the regular screwdriver loosen up the clamps(one on each side) to the big airhose and the smaller one then gradually remove it 4) next is the airbox cover itself- use a philips screwdriver to remove the screws(there are seven of them to my memory) and then remove the aircover and set it on the table so u can work on removing the MAF(black round screen) and unscrewing the airbox muffler(has three screws). It was easy removing the airbox muffler but the MAF took some time(its all plastic too much force u may break it)- u have to loosen the screw and gently rock it rt to left and vice versa and it gradually loosen up. 4) then its just a matter of screwing the carbon fiber plug(only need 2 screws instead of the three that was with the original airbox muffler) and placing the carbon fiber ring in place of the MAF 5) Now the air box cover is ready to be installed back so just litely screw the seven screws into place 6) Now with the red hose place the clamps(2) on each side and then work it into the airbox cover and the other end making sure its sealed before u titen the screw on the clamp 7) then reclamp the hose(yellow cap) and then insert the cable linkage into socket and the close the other two clamps 8) then start the car and look at the engine bay making sure nothing is loose 9) then drive and enjoy. I hope this will help u make it easier. Hope to hear your responses if u decide to get it installed. I welcome neone else offering tips to install the unit since some may differ then me but in the end same result. Take care all and Happy Holidays!!! Mike '99 996 coupe red/black b&m shifter fabspeed airflow ruf pedals next project: fabspeed exhaust/header/euro m030 suspension/wheels next year ..... : )

I have both. Unfortunately I can't say how easy or difficult they were to fit because RennSport Systems here in Portland did all the work for me. The hardest bit for me was writing the cheque. Graham (I'm a software guy, this is a hardware problem )

Thanks for the installation help everyone provided. The installation by the way is about as simple as changing oil. No problems whatsover and I do recommend gluing the smoothing ring into place. I would be very surprised if it stayed put over any sustained period of time if you don,t. I finally got a chance to drive the car on Saturday night as the weather finally cleared in my area. WOW, thats about all I can say. I am fairly experienced in modifying cars and on many, many occassions I have done something "simple" like this and the results were very hard to detect if anything at all. I was more than surprised at the increased throttle response from Idle on up! I bought my 2001 with 7K miles on it and the previous owner(a guy I knew) had already installed a Gemballa exhaust. The exhaust sounds awesome in my opinion but I always noticed a "flat spot" in the throttle response right off idle. Just bliping the pedal would produce nothing in terms of rev's. That is gone and the car is much more responsive everywhere. I drove the car quite a bit yesterday and I CAN feel the differnce and the sound is "jet like" over 4500rpms. I am impressed. My only mind bender here is the air filter. When I took the airbox apart to install the kit I removed the stock air filter in lieu of a BMC-1 unit. The factory unit was VERY dirty, much worse than I would have ever expected on a car with 9K miles. So, I am not sure how much the air filter change alone would have accomplished but I sense that at least some of the improvement is due to a clean air filter, BMC-1 improvment not withstanding. I will be installing a set of Gemballa headers and high flow cats this week. I will let you know how that goes under a seperate post. I cannot play with the ECU as this car will be Club Raced in stock class so I will not be doing anthing further to the engine system.

Dennis, I am picking mine up tomorrow. What kind of glue did you use to fasten the smoothing ring?

With respect to the MAF replacement ring i just inserted it in wo glueing simply at some point if I plan to sell the car or trade in i can take it off easier then if glueed but i do understand it may dislodge due to vibration and air forces. Neway is there ne advantage/disadvantage of not having the ring altogether becuase all it does is make the area smooth. I almost want just to not have the ring on. I welcome ne comments. thanks

I just used a two stage epoxy as that is probably the strongest thing available. I think that possibility of the ring being disloged and subsequently banging around to the point where it begins to break-up and possibly enter the intake in small particles is not comforting. If I sold the car, I would leave it in. I would agree that the ring probably contributes very little to any performance gain and the key elements to the kit are the smooth hose and increased airbox volume created by removing that baffle piece. Coincidently, this is the first item I have ordered from Fabspeed and I have had good luck. I am not sure if I will by purchasing anything further from them. Becausue of the relatively low cost of this item I took a chace. I really cannot understand how a shop could sell something that they have NOT dyno'ed or tested for performance gains. Not laying good groundwork for future sales so to speak. If it increases performance, it was a pretty good roll of the dice. I really am impressed this works.

Hey Dennis. From a cost standpoint u are correct its the best bang for the buck and another is the B&M shifter which I had installed. You may like to inquire about that unless u had it done already. I had posts on the b&m so check it out what i thought of it. I plan to sometime next year get into the fabspeed exhaust/header combo. If u havent heard of the how the exhaust sounds its pretty awesome. One of the posts by STYX has a sound bite that u download(wo headers). Take care. mike

Look carefully at your dirty paper filters: it is mostly if not all from the crud that is sucked up from the bottom of the engine via all those hot air holes in the lower right corner of the bottom pan of the air box. The reason I sealed that area was to get pure cold air into the engine and to keep a cleaner stream of intake air coming in. ( I suspect those "hot air" holes are a failsafe for engine intake air in case a big rat crawls into the cold air intake inlet !!) Also, I didn't bother with the smoothing ring- it will never stay on and I'm not keen on having bits of glue coming off and being sucked into the MAF wires.

I mean , this is partly a "Cold air" mod right? So to me, it's not complete 'til 'ya block off the hot air intake. I recall that every 10 degrees cooler intake air equals 1% ( 3hp for 996) more power. That means a 300 hp 996 makes 290 hp on 100 deg day, but 310 hp on 40 deg day - a 20 hp delta - assuming you aren't sucking in VERY hot air from the bottom .

Hi Dennis....Joe @ Fabspeed Motorsport. Not looking forward to CLUB racing your 996 in 2002! If results vary.......you have to return your Fabspeed performance products. Just see the "fine print"! LOL Just wanted to add some background information regarding our 996 cold-air hiperformance upgrade kit for the 996 stock airbox. The 3 part kits definetely- without any doubt- add significant horsepower and sportscar sound to all 996s. The Fabspeed cold airupgrade kit acts to increase flow by 25% thru any 996 OEM Porsche stock air intake system by utilizing 3 engineered parts that are completely logical. 1ST- replacing the 996 airboxes internal muffler adds 1.5liters more air to the "clean side" of the 996 airbox and allows the engine to "suck" air across the entire topside of the airbox not just from the right side. This carbon fiber style part is a key component and eliminates the Porsche intake muffler THAT doesnt allow airflow from the left side of the top airbox section. Proof: look how the airfilter doesnt get dirty on the left side/drivers side that means no air is passing by that area OR it would get dirty. So in a bone stock configuration each and every 996 engine sucks air from the RIGHT side of the airbox only. With Fabspeed cold-air upgrade the entire top clean portion of the airbox allows the engine immediately access to a much greater volume for amazing throttle response and more power. 2ND- The stock 996 intake hose is corrugated internally with several distinct internal ridges and with a side tube branching out for the muffler. These are non smooth protuberances that create boundary layer separation and disturbances that inhibit maximum potential airflow & velocity for the 996 engine. The Fabspeed solution is a 996 intake tube that is 4 ply silicone rubber that is SMOOTH inside to get maximum flow acheived from the airbox outlet to the throttle body. The Fabspeed tube is more rigid than stock so even at 7000+RPM the hose can not cave in atall under vacuum. Its better than stock by design for high RPM vacuum loads exacerbated by freeflow exhaust as well I might add. Fabspeed offers the silicone tube in super shiny RED aka motorsport "big red" style. Aa compared to competitors 996 intake systems the Fabspeed airintake tube is a ONE piece design not an inferior 3 piece design plastic or metal piece of pipe with 2 extra pieces of hose at both ends with 4 extra band clamps.....all these competitors solutions & parts will create internal ridges and boundry layer separation that do not maximize flow. Competitors like RM racing also just plug the muffler hole from on top and dont eliminate 996 muffler nor add the last MAF intake ring. 3RD- component of the kit is the carbon fiber MASS AIR RING THis part replaces the 996 airboxes mass air flow screen with our contoured slip in ring that adds over 35% better flow at the vital air intake point for all 996s. This piece acts like a intake horn you would see on any racecar from F1 to FIA GT...it makes the mass air area like an intake trumpet funnel with a maximized rolled edge so airflow is smooth as silk. It is design to snap in place and not come out and has not failed in tests. But if you want to....a couple dabs of clear nail polish, clear GE silicone, or model cement will secure it well. Fabspeed has not had the opportunity to personally DYNO test the system on a customers 996 as the 2 local customers would not permit their 996s to be dynoed. One other customer is very cool BUT has a 996 C4 .......so we couldnt dyno as its all wheel drive and virtually 99.99% of the chassis dynos in the USA are 2 wheel drive only. We are receiving DYNO results from several sources (Racers Group in California & others) as I write is among several. Racers Group informed us that they added 35-39HP to a 996 with Fabspeed: headers, maxflow mufflers, BMC F1 airfilter, Coldair upgrade, and Piggyback CHIP program custom dyno tuned for the 996. Also just by the seta of my pants and several other people you can feel the 996 is stronger. Feeling anything in your butt--- typically means that 8-12HP has been gained. If you can feel it versus stock.... it is significant. Other background- these parts we have supplied make sense in old and modern terms of adding horsepower/hotrodding any car. For years better airflow through any intake system adds power and reducing backpressure of a stock exhaust system adds power. Tuners try to maximize both sides synergistically and then tune it for maximum power! For example the 2001 Corvette Z06 had 385HP and for 2002 the Z06 was upto 405HP. GM powertrain engineers have quoted the total gain of +20HP are in eliminating the PRECATS (+5HP) and then eliminating the MAF screen and improving flow capacity through the Corvette airbox (remaining +15HP). Friends if you run an airfilter you dont need MAF screens as they arent there to "straighten" the airflow. They are provided as safeguards by automanufacturers incase you are ignorant there) and remove the airfilter to protect the engine from ingesting leaves and big foreign objects. Everyone that runs an airfilter doesnt need maf screens on their 996 or most any other car they own! Installation instructions come with all Fabspeed 996 airintake kits. The Fabspeed 996 cold airupgrade kit takes less than 30 minutes to install and requires a philipps screwdriver. Numerous detailed photos of stock 996 airbox parts V Fabspeed and systems installed on 996s. Have a great holiday and Dennis hopefully I wont have to send a call tag after the 2002 Lime Rock race! Happy Holidays to everyone. Fabspeed website --performance for the next millenium

Hey, I could make a similar argument with ripping the baffles out of a muffler! Anyone want to bet their 401K money that this would produce more power? I thought not. No dyno results=GAMBLE. No matter how good the theory looks on paper. Yeah, If I dont win every race, I am returning all the parts and selling the car, LOL.

RESULTS IN FROM RACER GROUP DYNO TUNING! I had my 996 at the Racer Group yesterday. I already had installed Fabspeed exhaust, Fabspeed intake, BMC filter, and Autothority chip. I was there for the Program computer upgrade and some suspension mods. I was amazed at the degree of programming capability of the Program system. We spent ~ 3 hours on the dyno performing pre and post runs. Fuel ratio, timing and other parameters can be tuned at any RPM/load ratio for your particular vehicle. You can see the immediate impact of the changes in the HP reading of the dyno, therefore HP can be maximized at any seeting. No "fixed" chip can offer you this level of performance. My going in HP with the upgrades installed above was ~ 325 HP (engine). With just the install of the Program computer we added 24 more HP at the largest gain. >20 HP was added in the range from 4800 to redline. That puts max HP at < 350 with the upgrades noted. BTW - this translates to a rear wheel HP of ~ 270. Additional notes: I had been having problems with the engine light coming on with various intake systems I've tried in the past. Tony at RG found that the Autothority chip was "tuned" way too rich and the Fabspeed intake which delivers more air was actually calling for addional fuel on top of the Autothority curves, hence the fuel/air ratio was way off in midband. We actually decreased fuel % to arrive at max HP.

I posted this previously in another thread, if you didn't see it there check it out here: I own a '01 996 C2 coupe - I just installed mine today AND I ran with the G-Tech before and after. I entered 3150lbs as my car's weight and made all runs in 2nd gear from 2000rpm to redline. On the same (relatively) flat road. Note: I did NOT reset the ECU . I was also periodically getting wheel spin even in 2nd (I have winter tires on). Pre Fabspeed air... Date time: 01-12-15 14:22 Engine temp: 92 Fuel load 70% Temp: -2c HP results: 255, 256, 275, 256, 262, 270 Average HP, (less 2 lowest): 266 Post Fabspeed air... Date time: 01-12-15 16:12 Engine temp: 92 Fuel load 65% Temp: -5c HP results: 256, 268, 272, 270, 267, 253, 275 Average HP, (less 2 lowest): 270 So, what does the above tell us? Well first off it shows that a G-Tech is a piece of crap. We can't really conclude wether the kit helps, it doesn't seem to hurt. Of course results may be more decisive when the ECU gets a chance to learn the kit. General comments on the kit: Easy to install, as long as you take a few minutes to work out how the various components slip appart. The MAF replacement ring didn't fit perfectly, it would need some trimming and glueing if you were to install it. I didn't install it because it's obvious it doesn't really do anything. If you were really serious about "smoothing the airflow" you could just take a dremel to the outer lip and continue the curve already there (you'll see what I mean when you install the kit). Removing the two MAF screens may have a bit more consequence than Joe stated. It's possible for the air filter to break apart, in which case the open MAF/Throttle would allow the bits to get sucked into the engine. It's also possible for the airbox itself to break apart, or for the screws in the airbox to fall out. Personally I took the chance and removed both screens as I believe this is the largest gain offered by the kit (Of course I could have done that without the kit...). If you already have a sport exhaust the noise difference isn't very noticable. You just get a hissing-wind type of sound in the second half of the rev-band. I was naively hoping for a cool intake honk or rasp, but this is better than nothing.

With reference to MKW sounds like a very good idea to seal the holes of the hot air portion. My question is where are they located and how do u go about sealing it. I would like to try it and see if there is a difference. Take care. MIke

when you remove the air filter, the lower half of the air box pulls right off after removing the single bolt . The hot air intake is an area the size of 1.5 playing cards with about a hundred tiny holes and the lower right . I just cut a piece of black ABS plastic from TAP plastics that matched that area and attached with some stainless #8 3/4" bolts and nylock nuts through 5 of those holes. Simple and secure.

Thanks MKW. Another question did u notice a difference compared to not doing that at all with blocking off the hot air intake? Thanks. mike

I did everything at the same time , including the BMC.

I drove to Fabspeed's shop today and picked it up. It took about a half hour to install. The smoothing ring popped right in but just in case(from previous posts), I applied some clear nail polish to assure it stays. I noticed the hot air holes that people have been talking about covering. I left it alone. It seems that Porsche put it there for a reason. One idea is that if too much water gets into the intake, it drains through these holes. The holes themselves are also very small that I don't think that it would cause too much of a difference in intake temperature. Air is sucked more efficiently through the path of least resistance, hence the big tube that Porsche uses as the intake. I notice a difference in sound at high RPMs'(above 4500) in gears 3,4, and 5. It does feel quicker at these engine speeds but I have no way to formally test it.

The air box bottom half HAS separate water drain holes . Also , I had noticed the oily , black dirt pattern on my old paper air filter matched the hot air holes exactly -the rest of the filter was very clean- so I assume it does draw quite a bit of air , since that area is directly under the MAF horn intake area .

Joe @ Fabspeed...A Question?? What is your position/recommendation on the holes at the bottom that everyone is talking about covering to stop the hot air intake? And any dyno charts you can post yet? Thanks, Bret

Hi Guys...in my opinion......I would say its perfectly fine to seal up the grid of holes in the rightside bottom pan of the 996 airbox. They are only there so that incase of a absolute monsoon or deluge.....the airbox has these area of holes so rainwater can drain out. Porsche has to worry about freakish potential warranty issues due to acts of GOD ...like 10" of rain during a Hurricane. Porcshe wouldnt have added these holes if the 996 airbox was "designed like a snorkle" to suck cold air vertically outside the engine compartment. Its a well designed airbox.....Porsche had to make it foolproof and thereby added holes so water could escape. If I had a 996 I would just stop off at HOME DEPOT and get a $3.50 tube of GE black silicone chaulk and seal everything EXCEPT 1-2 holes. This way water can still get out when I wash the car or during a spring thunderstorm. All any engine wants is lots of cold fast moving unobstructed airflow. I am still waiting for the Racers Group to send me DYNO results as well as several others sources. If anyone would like to come down in their 2002 996 for a dyno test I would offer a free exhaust install and coldairupgrade kit installation if you would do a dyno test. Thanks

The oem outside cold air snorkel empties into the lowest part of the air box's bottom tray. The bottom of that tray is slanted from both ends and meets at a valley on the center left side where a drain hole exists. The "hot air " grid of holes on the right side is terraced two levels ( about 2-3") higher . You would need to pour several gallons of water to get up to those holes at a fill rate faster than the drain hole can handle . If water came in at a rate that could fill that volume, no way would those " hot air" holes empty it fast enough , IMO! At that point, the filter would be water logged , as it is only a fraction of an inch above those latter holes .

MKW....you looked at it better than I did. Then perhaps a simple 1/4" hole uder the inlet snorkle elbow will be the best way to get rid of any water and then block off the right side hot-air holes. Have a great weekend. joe @ Fabspeed Motorsport