Looking to replace my frunk actuator, seeking video or technical advice on how to replace

So my frunk actuator has become intermittent in the last few weeks of ownership. When i press the button, I hear it tryng to actuate, but the frunk doesn't pop up (So I know its not a dead battery ). I can press the button a dozen times, and it'll try, but fail everytime. I try it the next day and it works just fine. So I'm a bit baffled. It has failed 4 out of 20 times in the past few weeks. I'm not willing to risk groceries or camping gear getting locked in the frunk for a day, so I just ordered a new actuator off pelican parts but I have no clue how to install. Any service manuals floating around out there or hidden youtube videos? I have yet to find one where someone replaces the actuator itself.

The expensive twin button unit in the door sash? I saw a diagram once but if you find a photo of that part or look at it upon arrival you will see how it installs, it likes like it's kind of a press fit, the new unit will be the key where to use a plastic small pry device delicately. Before you replace it, try pushing down and pulling up on the front lip of the button, simultaneously. I thought mine needed replacement too but that simple maneuver works every single time.

No, That seems to be fully functional. I'm indending to replace the actual system that releases the hood. Since I can hear it trying to work when I toggle the switch or click the key fob, but it fails to pop the hood.

Oh I see, sorry my bad. I wonder if the fact you hear it actuating might mean it could be a simple issue that might be repairable at the latch?

Are you getting a good solid sounding "thunk" when you actuate it? If so, the solenoid may be OK. It may just be an adjustment issue with the catch on the frunk. It may be an easy fix.

Just for info, "vigorous" polishing of the right front headlight lens can create a static charge that can "disable" the frunk latch. Like most things on this car, it is not a simple circuit. There is a control module in the circuit that can get confused. A Durometric or a PIWIS is required to re-enable the frunk latch. If you don't believe me, look it up. These are "fun" cars in so many ways.

I've read (no first hand experience) that this can occur when your battery is starting reaching its end of life. (easy thing to check)

I bought the twin button unit for about 30$ on eBay. It’s Chinese but likely sourced to Porsche as oem gear anyway. Why pay more for an innocuous switch that doesn’t affect car performance

He didn't buy the switch (I thought that was made clear above) - he is replacing the actual catch mechanism (aka actuator) and if I was doing that I wouldn't take the chance on an eBay/Chinese version since if it failed it could cause a real problem getting the lid open. OP - might I suggest a subscription to AllDataDIY.com - it's about $18/year (there are discount coupons floating the web) and at least on my 2009 987 it's quite inclusive.. I just looked - and there are extensive instructions for my '09, and I can't imagine it's any different for your 2005. Good luck!

Wow thank you for this information, my frunk actuator has intermittently been failing ever since I buffed my entire car. I had no idea this was a possible outcome after feeling a static charge from the headlight. I just bought an iCarSoft but guessing I can't re-enable the frunk latch using that. Should I return it and get a Durometric instead?

Apologies for never updating. I replaced the actuator and it has been working perfectly since. I ordered the part off pelican parts . I removed the plastic covers, bent the metal cover over the latch back and removed the inner lining in the frunk. Unplugged the unit, pulled the wire and removed the old actuator and reversed the steps for the new actuator. The thin metal plate covering the actuator didn’t bend back as nicely but...oh well. Since replacing, the latch works in all conditions and is perfectly reliable

Had this on my 981 about 6 months ago, and it just needed some good lubrication. I used some WD-40 to clean/loosen up the old dried lube a bit, then some white grease to finish it off. Been working great ever since.