Oil Level

So I met up with a friend on Monday night and was telling him that I had driven 1000+ miles since I got the car and it hadn't burned any oil (the oil level gage has been pinned at the top bar since I bought it). And just like that I get an Oil Check light and it had dropped one bar on the way home . . . I figured, hmmf, I guess maybe it has been burning a little and just took that long for 1 bar to register. 1 bar is like 400 mL IIRC so I figured I'd just top it up. So I just went and picked up a quart of oil, but when I checked the oil level this time it's reading all the way up to the top bar again now. Has anyone else experienced something like this? 2006 Boxter S 6-speed btw.

Lots of posts on hear about flaky results from the oil monitoring system. The best advice is check it the same every time (same spot on the driveway, always at the end of a drive, etc).

I'm fairly new to Porsche and one of the FIRST things I found during research of how to take care of my new to me Porsche was the fiddly oil level monitor. And since changing the oil was FIRST on my list, I followed the advice that I read multiple times about draining and then when refilling, dump maybe about a half a quart less than the published oil capacity. Go through a quick heat cycle (drive) and park it level. Then next time you are going to take it out, check the oil level before starting it, you'll likely find it lower than the middle or maybe the middle, then add some. Not a lot, just enough to push it up a bar. Then repeat the whole procedure. Basically you want to "sneak up on the desired level". This way you don't have to deal with the overfill conundrum. It worked perfectly for me and I stopped adding once I got a bar below the full mark. Now when I check it it is either 2 bars or 1 bar below full everytime. It alternates, of course, which is why you can't be 100% accurate at filling it. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Except this won't work on my 987.2 , because the care will fail tell me that the car is not warmed up... I think the engine needs to be on as well, IIRC? Not criticizing... just pointing out that different gen vehicles seem to need different processes. That said, I try to remember to check my car when I get back home (trying to make it a habit for when I am raising the top, for example)... and I've seen 1-bar of variability even there... so it certainly is finicky.

I admit that I don't know exactly how the 987.2 oil level check procedure differs from a 987.1 , but I'd be shocked if the motor should be running. That would make the oil level sensor see a different "level" continuously, no? Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Nope the 981 works the same way and can give a reading both turned off or "dynamic" when running. These cars have a dry sump design. It too must be hot in order to give an accurate reading, but to make things even more confusing, it will show you a value no matter what, but what you are actually seeing is the value the last time all of the prerequisites were last met. In other words you will be looking at yesterdays values if the car is cold. This is why every one of these oil threads go instantly sideways with loads of misinformation and confusion in them. Every model has its own different rules, yet everyone talks about how they do it as if its all the same for everyone. The 987.2 will make you wait for a reading, so it seems they are constantly changing the logic of how the oil reading works. I think the 981 is the most confusing so far because you are not always looking at real time data like many think they are. This is why you see all the threads about people adding or removing oil, yet nothing changes on the display until all the prerequisites have been met, making it a time consuming process of add/remove/drive a bit, check again then add/remove/drive, etc. Attached is a document on how things work for the 981

Thanks for taking the time to clarify. Now I will know when to just stay out of it! Sorry for any confusion from the 987.1 seats. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

No worries and I wasnt targeting anyone in particular, so sorry if it came across that way. My point was it can be very confusing because Porsche seems to change things from one model to another just enough that what works for one model may be different for another. Everyone just needs to make sure to follow the process that their specific manual states, and not blindly follow what someone else says to do as it may be fine for one car, but not so much on another

I am very happy to say the 987.1 isn't near as complicated or fussy. Check it before you start the car in the morning and viola.....accurate reading, assuming you fulfill the only criteria of being on a level surface. Does it vary slightly (one bar)? Of course, but mostly depending how long it sat between drives.

What I did and now do also. 987.1. I leave it at one or two bars below

Not sure about those 981 reply's as their oil system is a little different than yours. I have a 2007 S with a deep sump. I run with less than 1/2 on the oil gauge to save my AOS from excess slosh up the side wall. So for your issue, please check as a couple of other pointed out each morning on start up your oil level. Keep a record of the oil level and the milage. I run 3500 miles with no oil usage until oil change. Others may use more oil. Just depends on how the engine was broken in.

One thing is for sure, the amount of oil each bar represents is a lot less than it seems like it should be. (at least with my 987.1 ) You do get used to the flakeyness of the terrible electronic gauge and you will always wish Porsche would have just put in a damned dipstick.

Well I don't drive it every day, but I check the oil every time I start it and it's holding steady at the top bar. I don't get any noticeable smoke at startup so I don't think it's an overfilled condition (although I should put a camera on it to record the startup). There's still a plugged hole where the older cars had the dipstick. I wonder if there's still a tube connecting to the engine and if it's just a matter of opening the plug and ordering a dipstick to retrofit one? Has anyone ever tried that?