Engine support yoke in Brisbane.

I've just dropped the engine and transmission for access to begin a longish list of tasks. (sounds very slippery slopish) I'm looking for a Brisbane person who may have an engine yoke available that they may want to part with for a fair sum. Jobs list for those interested in the DIY topic. Primary reason is rear wheel bearings. I wanted to remove the arms to use a press, which requires engine/trans out on a 73. I don't like cutting bolts. Then, oil leaks - Rocker shaft orings, and adjust tappets as i was too lazy to do while in car. Main engine seal, transaxle shaft seals . Overhaul the CIS system. Tempting to change but not at the moment. Replace exhaust system as it's pretty rooted. Replace rear fuel lines. New clutch plate and reface the flywheel. Or new clutch entirely if it's the appropriate option. Overhaul starter as it's showing signs of failure. General investigation for pulled head studs etc. That's the slopey bit. and many other things i cant think of just now. Anyway, if there is a yoke going begging please contact me.

Update. Maybe i've crossed a line asking to buy a yoke. I understand, once you own a Porsche tool you should never sell.... Nevermind, this time around i hope to avoid the full rebuild so i'll just be doing the rockers the clutch the CIS and the exhaust after i pop it back in. The rebuild can wait a while.

Update Nov27th. Rocker shaft o-rings installed. Difficult enough out of the car. Would not try this with the engine installed. Tappets adjusted. Oil from leaking rockers cleaned up. No pulled or broken head studs evident. Phew! 5 Heads are stamped 10/72 one is 10/71 ? Rear wheel bearings replaced. Incumbents looked to be from 1973. Rear end still.. Front trailing arm bushes replaced. Didn't really need them but you don't really know until you rip em out. Proved to be a bit tricky but figured it out eventually. Good to know they are new. Biggest win for no bucks was the CIS. The air box joint was leaking after investigation. No surprise the old plastic cement goes brittle. I managed to separate the parts without breaking anything. This was a bit stressful but the only way to fix it correctly. Reglued with a modified polyurethane glue that does not become brittle. Couple more weekends and she should be back together. e

I see you have the CIS off - are you doing new injector o-rings at the same time?  Assuming you're checking all the CIS vacuum lines and the rest for leaks.

Hi Coastr.  This is a 73.5 first edition of the CIS with the steel intake tubes. For the injector grommets i have new units. They sit a bit loosey goosey in the little tin inserts so i'll peen them over a bit when they go in.  I've found some MB injectors for $30 each that look identical to the short first edition CIS units which are very expensive as a Porsche part. I've got new rubbers for the intake pipes. All the vacuum tubing was done when i got the car as well as all the fuel lines. Is it possible to get new port inserts?  They appear to be not listed anywhere i can find. They also appear to be pressed in. I don't want to try twisting them while i have no backup options. They are serviceable for now. The car has been running quite well apart from needing to be tuned a bit rich because of the vac leaks. Mostly glad to get the new rear wheel bearings in as it was the last item in the running gear that needed doing. Too many other time sucking projects have kept me away from the shed.

looks good. Which glue did you use on the airbox repair?

Hi Mike. It's one of the new modified Polyurethanes by Selleys. We manufacture PU where i work but not this type of adhesive. It retains some slight flexibility but is super tough and a super adhesive. I hope i never need to separate them again. Not sure of its fuel resistance but polyurethanes are fairly resistant to most solvents. The original sealant was probably good for the first 35 years. I'd like to do a full rebuild down the road but the engine and gbox are still good for the moment. It was rebuilt after being imported but i have no information and it was done around 25 years ago. They seem to have kept the original heads (hence the original CIS short injectors). No pop off valve and no oil feed to the chain tensioners. I'd guess it's done few kms in all that time.

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OK to share the name of the glue? I'd like to try it...

Yeah no worries. I haven't tested it properly apart from i've put a blob in a cup of fuel and it looks fine after a week or two. The Selleys range in the blue and black tubes. They have brand names like armour flex, marine flex this flex and that flex. I used the marine flex. They call it Sil-X technology which is code for we don't want to tell you what's in it.

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Do you still do the odd CIS restore?

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when I rebuild a motor, i refresh everything, but I dont rebuild the wur of the fuel dist.

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I found a guy in Slacks Creek that supplies kits for the distributors for all euro car models. However i'm a bit wary of opening that unit if i don't need to.. Another source of air leak in the CIS is the throttle plate shaft. They can suck air when worn, need to check mine. Two of my injectors look to be dodgy, the others spray nicely. I'm hoping the MB ones i found will be correct. About one eighth the price of the Porsche part. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjqwfCApd_7AhVumVYBHRw3Dp4QFnoECAkQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fk-jet.biz%2F&usg=AOvVaw1PSr4nKAyItQH_8xR3pQLW Tanah Merah not Slacks Creek.

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you'd be surprised how effective an ultrasonic clean on your original injkectors will work.

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Yes the K-Jet repair guy has a good PDF instruction on rebuilding the distributors and he recommends ultrasonics for the filter screens in the centre shaft. One of my  injector nozzles seems to pop out crooked. I think someone may have been at it in the past and bent the pin. I'll get the new ones this week, see how they go.

OK, sorry it's been a few weks since posting with Christmas and a kids birthday to negotiate. I have been a busy beaver. Engine in today and test run taken. All is well and she drives great. Had a small hiccup with the first main crank seal failing immediately on first install. Farrk-it. Out she came. No oil on the new clutch thankfully. Popped into Brisbane Porsche on the 28th to grab a new seal. It has worked and was much tighter in the housing. The 'Victor Reinz' unit that failed was too loose and it rotated and cocked in the housing, causing quick failure. I also collected new bell crank throttle bushings (for the geabox post) as the units Pelican had sold me were incorrect. These were only $6. I couldn't believe my eyes. The main seal was expensive but worth it to get one (that is a correct fit) quickly. All looks well. Since Nov 7th the items completed are.. Rear wheel bearings. Cleaned and checked hub flange runout. Found to be in tolerance. Trailing arm bushes Renewed driveshafts. (dissasembled cleaned and repacked). New rear discs and pads. All rear fuel lines. All brake lines in the rear. New Clutch Helicoil required for one gearbox mounting bolt. New transaxle flange seal. Passenger side. Probably leaking due to the rooted wheel bearing. Rear main seal. Twice!! Rebuilt CIS Airbox and tracked down vacuum leaks. Rebuilt throttle cranks on engine and trans. Adjusted tappets. Installed o-rings to all rocker shafts. Took a gamble on new injectors with a M-Benz part number. Cant find any info on these old injectors re: spring pressures. They were a fraction of the Porsche part cost and have worked very well on the first test. Still to do..... Wheel alignment. Check why alternator light is on. May have pulled a plug out with my heavy handedness. New Muffler to be sourced. SSI system i wish. And yes i know the the oil drain plug is in the wrong position.