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YOUR RESEARCHGarage 101: Getting my 996 up on 4 jack stands?
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It was actually more about what I used rather than
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I used a set of parts store jackstands which don't really fit the jacking points well.
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$350 will buy a set of 4 including shipping and still leave some change for gas.
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Okay, basic question I know, but what's the best technique to get the car up onto 4 stands?
What order, procedure is best/safest?
For example, should I bring the rear up first, then the front? Should I jack from the center of the axles/differentials, or bring up each wheel at the jack points toward the side?
TIA for the advice!
Howard
This has been
covered
, but here is my method:
1. Jack up one side by the rear jack point (in front of the rear wheel)
2. The entire side of the car will raise up.
3. Place jackstand under FRONT jacking point (behind front wheel)
4. Lower car.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 on the other side of the car.
6. Both front wheels are now off the ground.
7. Jack up the entire rear of the car using center of the structural support located between the rear wheels. See picture. You need an appropriate low-profile jack for this.
8. Place jackstands under both rear jacking points. Lower the car.
Yes. The only reason I had the picture on my computer was because I was asking questions about the oil leak about a year ago. It was the AOS. Fixed now
.
Good eye.
Don't be careless with the jackstand placement and you'll be fine.
Watch each corner as you jack and go in steps and go slowly.
I also like to use the rubber covers for the tops of the stands.
I have had the car up a couple of times already.
Drive both rear tires over 2x10, jack up rear point, put stand with hockey puck under front jack point, put another jack stand with hockey puck under the end of the rear suspension cross member, lower the jack and do the same on the other side.
Would have preferred to jack the rear center part of suspension cross member and put jack stands under factory rear jack points, but the jack can get that far.
Very cool. Breathtaking price. Sears had something similar years ago, but dropped them (I didn't see them com. Seems like we should see more products like this. Makes absolute sense to be able to lift--then transfer the support to a stand.
So odd that we haven't seen more solutions similar to this. Seems like a lot of opportunity there.
I actually jacked it up correctly and had four stands under the jacking points. When I jacked up the rear to remove the rear stands, the car shifted forward on the front stands. The car slid off of the passenger side stand, and the stand crushed and punctured the AC line. It's something of a Catch 22 because you have nothing to chock with all four wheels in the air. It was actually more about what I used rather than
how
I did it. I used a set of parts store jackstands which don't really fit the jacking points well. A better alternative would be the expensive-as-hell stands with the flat rubber pads.
What are you doing as far as leaving in gear ( manual) or park (tiptronic) and with the handbrake?
I have seen different views on this. I have always locked everything up in gear with the brake on to avoid movement, even placking chocks to the tires.
Don't know if they are the "best" but I have a set of 4 ESCO jackstands with the flat rubber top. Very stable and no problems putting the car up on all 4 corners.
http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...oducts_id=2420
$350 will buy a set of 4 including shipping and still leave some change for gas.
BTW, Edgy01 did a good write up with pictures on the 997 forum
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-securely.html
humm... let me define AFFORDABLE
-> $50 a pair = cheap
-> $100 a pair = >> affordable <<
-> $200 a pair = premium / toy
-> $250+ a pair = better lift the car themselves
So after getting done with my clutch job I found out last night, after driving the car for less than a mile that I might have an oil leak somewhere. That means (maybe going) back up on jacks to diagnose.
I HATE putting the two front jack stands in place - especially putting 6 ton tall stands under there to get the car up at a comfortable height to drop the transmission. The side to side jacking in my small garage is hair raising.
So I'm thinking about building ramps like the ones pictured - for the front wheels only. What's a safe ramp angle to drive the car up on? I'm thinking 9 - 9.5 deg is well within safe....
I've often wondered if I had decent welding skills, why not use 4 jacks -- but make up something like a jackstand to fit under the lifting surface of the jack. So, you jack up the car, then slide in your vertical support, then lower slightly so the weight of the car is resting both on the jack and your support.
I've never used
these
, but I think it's the same concept you're talking about. 30 bucks each is actually pretty reasonable too. Basically jack the car enough to get the stand under at the lowest setting and then go to town, one notch on either side of the car at a time.
The attached diagram will show you the incline on commercially available Race Ramps. The auto super store ramps are shown in gray. They have a 17˚ angle which is way too steep for your car. Standard Race Ramps have a 10.7˚ constant slope. The custom Race Ramps offered by Reverse Logic have initial inclines of 4˚ to 6.8˚. The RLL-89-2 Progressive Incline ramps have a concave curved top which gets the car higher in a given distance.
9˚ may still be too steep for your car. Why not check the approach angle with the iSetSquare app available for your iPhone? Or you could just make a crude gauge from cardboard to approximate the approach angle.
I was thinking about 4 floor jacks and having a vertical support for each one (like putting a stick in an aligator's mouth). Could easily set it up to be compatible with 4 economy floor jacks.
I think the Powerbuilt Jak and stand is probably a good product, if you have 6+ inches of ground clearance for starters. Otherwise you have to prelift your car substantially. Even then these present a risk for Pcars in that you risk the factory jacking surface on your car slipping off the stand (didn't we just read about that?).
There are options for less than $299. I'd suggest something that either fits into the hole on the Porsche jacking spot or at least a high friction insulator between the two metal surfaces (jack stand and auto).
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