996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

I reached critical mass in my parts hoarding. Something has to give, the parts need to be fitted sometime. No better time than outside in mid winter. I have borrowed a car for the duration, the 996 is SORN. CP4L: clutch kit, flywheel, flywheel bolts, sealant, threadlock, genuine RMS type 911: clutch cover bolts, aos, alignmnet tool, clutch lever repair kit oh and i have fuel filter and waterpump, and belt bearings to go in too. Step one: Jack up the car Step two: Snap three of the middle underbody cover threads clean off I fear this is going to take a while. More to follow.

Step 3 - use cable ties to put it back together and wait until Spring!

The problem is that come springtime you want to be driving, not fixing. MC

opcorn: & :tea:

Step 4: Take to closest good Indy. 😬

Ah ye of little faith. I once swapped the gearbox on a 306 so feel I'm qualified for this task. Good to have you on board! I only get the odd hour to do stuff unfortunately. Today before removing anything I cracked every bolt. I DO NOT want to be stuck on the drive with a seized bolt or snapped mounting point after reading marky911's experience: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=118164&start=120 Thankfully all my brace bar and gearbox mounting bolts came loose, except I couldn't get on the top bolt - this will have to wait as I will drop the engine on its mounts 25mm to gain access. This is the extend of my RMS or IMS cover leak - you can see fresh oil: And this is what your undercarriage looks like after 19 years of said weeping oil: Dirty. Maybe I'll get it steam cleaned when I'm done. Or maybe not. I proceeded to remove all underbody covers and arch liners. This was lurking under rear wheel arch sill ends: Full of mud! no arch corrosion yet though, the jacking point area needs buzzing off and POR-15 as will under this plastic trim. Seems solid so hopefully no welding needed.... This brake line was hiding, looks OK so will wire brush and liberally waxoil. Someone has been in and replaced the other lines already. EDIT: this brake line will be replaced I'd advise you all to remove your underbody plastics and check whats lurking. Next step will be fabricating tools. 1) jack attachment for transmission 2) camlock tools

It could be your IMS seal that is leaking and I'm assuming this is getting the outer bearing seal removed while you are in there?

Have a good look at the brake pipe were it goes into the clip as thats the point they rot out .. if in doubt then either replace or cut and join .. ive blown those pipes on road test before and it happens when the car is MOT,ed on the brake rollers due to the excessive force used . Check the clutch slave cyl pipe and union as they are often heavily corroded these days . Ive seen in our bodyshop they have a tool that you fit a new stud into , press it against where you want it and it will weld it in place so perhaps thats an option as it doesnt take long . I do love a post like this .. nice going young man Thats not a bad leak IMHO .. i see far worse ! Ive not done this in a few years now but im sure there was x2 bolts going sideways in the caseing that when you do ims / crank seal you also replace as they can leak . A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ?

I love threads like this. As I am sure many other amateur spanner twirlers do, I look for things like this when I have a job to do. When I don't find it I get stuck in and write it up myself. Don't spare the details..... MC

Personally I use the old seal backwards and a piece of wood to drift it in a circular motion.

Yes I'm going to check the bearing for play and flip the seal off. Thanks a lot for the tips Demort! I'm going to glue some threaded stud for the undertray. E.g. https://www.comdir.co.uk/male-stud-bonding-fasteners-23mm-round-base.html Crank seal tool from 100mm plumbing: Cam lock tool: I will make 2x of these each from 2 pieces of 2mm steel cut and glued together. both from http://burnerscars.blogspot.co.uk/ (website is down...)

While I wait for steel to arrive to make my jack attachement and camlocks I got on with some "easy" jobs - spark plugs and fuel filter. I say "easy" as they are both a bit of a wrestle. Now I am shocked. The fuel filter I pulled out is a genuine filter dated 04.01.05 The car has FULL service history by OPC and VERY respected indies until I got my hands on it at 111k miles. Thats why I hadn't changed it yet. At its OPC service on 14/01/05 the car had 33479 miles. The car has 100k miles more than that now.....the fuel filter is probably 100k miles old. They should be changed every 60k. None of people who serviced it in the meantime thought to change the fuel filter, despite ticking the "major service" box in the service history. This is why I service my own cars.

I love threads like these even though I have no plans / skills / patience to carry out the tasks shown. Best of luck pal!

That sounds easier than sourcing 100mm plumbing. (UK is 110mm). I'll give it a bash (!). I understand the depth has changed a few times, is the latest 15mm from flywheel mounting face? And what if any sealant do you use (I noticed on Marky911's they used some red sealant on RMS and IMS seal, and yellow on the threads of the IMB cover bolts).

So do I, love watching others do the jobs! Now its my turn....Thanks for the encouragement!