Hi, folks.
I replaced the brake pads and wear sensors on our
Cayman
about a month ago. I used factory Porsche pads, but I decided to save a few bucks by using URO sensors from Amazon. All went well until the first time I took it on track about a week later. This was not an extended or hard session by any means, but I did give the brakes a bit of a workout and when I came off track I had a brake wear warning on the dash.
I've subsequently checked the pads and sensors - the pads are virtually unworn and the sensors all
look
fine, but obviously one or more of the sensors has gone open circuit. Rather than replace the entire set, can PIWIS or Durametric determine which wheel is reporting the problem?
Apologies for multiple initial posts - the site kept giving me an error message after I clicked submit, and I assumed it had not posted.
The circuit is just opened or closed. You should be able to use a multi-meter and check resistance. Granted, this is just a theory as I haven't had to do it myself
Yes you can just unplug each sensor and test with an ohmmeter to see which one is open. That's the bad one.
Duh, why didn't I think of that?! Thanks, guys.
Well here we are, nearly four months later, and I finally got off my duff ans tested all the sensors. Trouble is, none of them is open circuit! However, I did notice that there was some variation in resistance - one was around 10 ohms while another was around 40, and I don't know what the other two were (I'd already put the other wheels back on before I thought to start actually looking at my meter instead of just listening for the continuity beep.
So is it possible that the system is looking for a resistance threshold rather than simply an open circuit? Or maybe one or more of the plugs is failing to make a good connection.
And I guess this brings me back to the original question - can a Durametric or
PIWIS
identify which wheel is causing the indication?
Looking at the schematic, these all look to be in series. In English, the entire circuit is open or closed (or as you have noticed maybe high resistance vs. low resistance) and there isn't a way for the computer to tell which one is causing the problem.
Ah. Makes sense, but... bummer. Now do I spend the cash on genuine sensors, or simply cut and short the existing ones on the basis that they're not really needed on a car that gets checked regularly anyway. I'm thinking the latter.
Thanks!
Or buy 1 new sensor and swap it around until you find the bad one. I would start with the one with the highest resistance.
When you find the bad one, short it into a loop and save it for next time! [emoji3]
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