Couple of quick oil change questions...

So i've decided to do my own oil changes. I assume the filter and plug are roughly in the middle at the back of the car (I've searched for a good, wide-angle pic for perspective, but no luck!!). Also, no panels to remove? As far as getting under the car, I was thinking of a couple of 2" x 12's stacked for the "ramp". Would this get the car up high enough for access to the oily parts? -Robstoy

No panel removal needed. The drain plug is a recessed HEX nut in the center of the oil pan. The filter is exposed and obvious. However, I recommend Rhino ramps vs. using the wood. You have to get close to the center of the car to access the drain plug and filter. http://www.planet-9.com/u-s-northeast-noreasters-region/22102-first-oil-change-completed-photos.html Look in my photo gallery for photos around mid-2008, I remember taking a flush photo of the Cayman underside up on a lift.

OK, found the photo The drain plug is next to the green "H" mark on the oil pan, at 6 o'clock on the photo. You can see the black cylindrical filter housing to the upper left of the plug.

Many more belly shots here: http://www.planet-9.com/u-s-northeast-noreasters-region/20786-zone-1-tech-tactics-event-photos.html

All that 'Orange Porn' Pete :banana: Shame the garage got taken out ..... btw Have they finally locked the old boss (owner) up ?

A couple of 2x12 planks will only raise the wheels by an actual 3" - not a lot of clearance to work under the car. +1 for Rhino ramps. See Helo Driver's oil change Article for help: Motor Oil / Mobil 1 - Articles

Pete, That's perfect...exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks for posting the pic ( I looked in your gallery, but you have so many pics I couldnt find it ). I really appreciate your help!!

Yeah, I was concerned the 2x12's would be too low. Where can you get the Rhino's? Helo's post was very helpful as well.

What year is your Cayman? The 2009+ cars have the oil filter in a less convenient place than the 2006-2008 cars, towards the front of the car, higher up on the engine, and only reachable with the car lifted. The picture posted above is of a 2006-2008 car.

Blueone is right, 2009+ cars are completely different. Let me know if you need a photo of that as well! Yeah, apparently I have over 4000 photos uploaded, kinda hard to find stuff! I just remember around when they were taken and search that way. You should be able to find Rhino Ramps at any Autozone, Pepboys or chain auto parts store. I recommend you look for the up-rated ramps made for SUV's vs. the standard ones for cars. The SUV ramps are wider and fits our rear tires perfectly. The car ramps are more narrow.

Mine is a 2007. Looks like I'll be ok.

One more question...I was planning on backing up the ramps...do I need to be overly concerned about not all of the old oil draining due to the angle/ slope on the ramp?

Is your driveway sloped? The closer you can get the car level when on the ramps the better, but I wouldn't go nuts over it. Once the oil starts to drain, maybe you can jack up the front of the car. WARNING, DON'T GET UNDER THE CAR WHEN YOU HAVE IT SUPPORTED BY A JACK. USE JACKSTANDS! One more thing, I would have an extra drain plug handy (order from Suncoast, they're not that expensive). The plug itself is lightweight aluminum (I think) and very easy to strip the threads on (don't ask how I know). Since you have a used car, who know what condition it's in thanks to the previous owner. If you're ordering, might was well get the OEM Porsche filter removal tool vs. using a generic strap tool. Oil Filter Wrench orsche Parts & Porsche Accessories - Wholesale Porsche Parts & Tequipment - Cayman Panamera Cayenn Drain Plug and Washer orsche Parts & Porsche Accessories - Wholesale Porsche Parts & Tequipment - Cayman Panamera Cayenn

I think reading this thread convinced me to do my own oil changes in the future ( I just had the oil changed a few days ago) But anyway I can save a few bucks here and there and spend some quality time with the car

Agreed!! (and you know it's being done right...)

I've read here on Planet 9 that the dealers charge ~$250 for an oil change. Does that include an engine flush? Or, are they simply draining the oil and installing a fresh filter?

I've never heard of a dealer including engine flushing in the price. Who flushes engines any more? That's an obsolete procedure.

I dont like ramps: changing the oil on my friend's Cayman...while backing up the ramp, the ramp sliped on the smooth floor and shot under the car! No damage to the rocker pannel, but haven't used ramps since! Scared us good! Instead, buy two floor jacks for about $30 each. Jack up the rear of the car with one jack on each side, and put your wood blocks under the tires while you get under there to remove the drain plug and change the filter. With the drain plug out, remove the blocks and lower the car down and let it sit level and drain for at least 30 minutes . Then jack it back up and reinstall the drain plug . Don't overfill with oil...8 quarts only and take a reading on the oil level gauge. And do not leave the oil cap off because you think you will be adding more oil in a few minutes...it is a pressurized system and engine won't run right, and you will get a "see repair shop" code that requires a reset from the dealer. Ask me how I know that...!

I just changed my oil and have a few things to add: - I backed the car on to a pair of Rhino ramps and then used two small jacks to lift the front of the car. Getting the car level makes a big difference in draining out all the old oil. - There is a LOT of oil in that crankcase. Make sure that your drain pan is big enough. - The drain plug is soft aluminum and was probably overtightened in the past. I damaged the hex as I had to use a breaker bar to get it out. Have a spare on hand, or get a billet magnetic plug from LN Engineering, etc. - 7.75L as called for in the manual is about 8.2 quarts. I put in 8, checked the level, idled the car, added more a few times to get the level right. - I did a lot of reading on oil types, weights, etc. And decided to go with Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40. I wanted the 5W-40 based on several knowledgable people recommending it (including Charles at LN Engineering). I opted for Pennzoil Ultra Euro as it's Porsche A40 certified and is very highly regarded on the BITOG forums. It's tough stuff to find; in a city of 4 million people I was only able to find it at a Ferrari dealership

To bad your so far away,I own a fast LubeShop and i store a lot of that stuff for my customer with luxury cars and also the mobil brand 4 those who really wants the 0w40,and i also store the 25w50 (Pennzoil Racing Motor Oil SAE 25W-50 has 1980ppm zinc.)for those 911 air cool engine.BTW a mineral 5w30 sm as about 800/850ppm zinc

PistolPete, Could you post that 2009 MY pic? I have a 2010 Boxster S and would like to see the filter location. Thanks!

Unfortunately this is the best one I have of a DFI car. The oil drain plug is roughly in the same spot but I see to remember the filter as being buried further up in the engine area.

Here's a link from Pelican Parts for 2008 MY, however the area is very similar and once you get under the car you'll see the similarities (bottom pan with the hex bolt, filter housing). Note : A few auto parts sell the 2008 MY filters. Don't buy it for your 2010! Although it will fit, it's not the right length. The same goes if you want to convert to the LN Engineering filter adapter, which I have. Make sure you get the MY 2009+, or your engine will not circulate the oil. Hope this helps! Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Oil Change - 986 / 987

I always did the oil changes on my 2001, so I am very familiar with it, but I was hoping to see the filter location difference for the 2009. I already have the longer filters ready to go. I'm sure I'll find it when I get under there. Thanks for the responses!

I had my oil change a couple weeks ago and oil level was fine no problems. Today I went to my car checked the oil level and noticed it was above the line. Why did this happen? Is this safe?

Started the car up for approximately 10 min. And the oil level changed.. Last week I checked it and it was perfect. The car hasn't been driven at all due to my shoulder surgery.. I'm confused....

Now I took a picture in the evening and it's perfect...

With heat, the oil level can expand, so if it was close to high in the beginning, then with some driving and summer heat, it could possibly be just enough to raise the level. As many people mentioned, the quantity (for the 3.4L) is right around 8 quarts. What I always do is add 7.75 quarts, then let the engine run to check the level. I'll drive around the block, then check it again. If it needs a little more, then I'll add from the remaining oil in the jug. As far as it being at the level in your picture (all the way full), in my opinion this can't be good. Let the oil out, via the drain plug, very carefully (don't let the plug all the way out). Then check the oil. Also, make sure that when you do future oil changes, that you let it drain for about 30min, so that you know that most of the oil is out. Otherwise, you might be left with a good amount inside and adding 8 fresh quarts is really like adding 8 quarts plus whatever didn't drain out. Hope my advice helps!

With respect to Rhino ramps slipping on a smooth surface, I had this same issue but solved it by buying those "rubber" mats that you stand on in the garage from Harbor Freight. I think 4 of them were like $5. I have them in front of my work bench and helps if you have to stand on for a period of time. Anyway, I slip them under the Rhino ramp and no more sliding on a smooth surface.

Robstoy: Here are two pics of the bottom of the car showing oil draining from the plug, and the LN Engineering Spin-On Adapter with the FilterMag on the filter. The filter used is a Royal Purple 10-44 model. I changed the oil in my car today and took along my camera to snap some shots. The first pic is taken from the rear looking forward. The second pic is taken from the front looking rearward. The position of the filter is on the driver's side adjacent to the vehicle axle. Basically, just follow the header pipes upwards and you'll see it. Be very careful, since this area has a lot of hot metal. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the pics. Very helpful. I am going to change my oil tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for your comments and pics!! This forum is da bomb!! Robstoy