I just flushed brakes and then clutch but I couldn't get the clutch bleed screw closed quickly enough and ran the reservoir dry. I'm using a motive bleeder. I know I'll need to start over on the clutch but do I need to re-flush the brakes too? I guess I'm wondering if the inside of the reservoir is sufficiently partitioned to prevent air entering the brake system when I pushed air thru the clutch. Any advice appreciated.
The tap for the clutch is about halfway down the side of the reservoir. If the clutch ran dry, half of the fluid should have been left in the reservoir. The brakes shouldn't need bleeding if this was the case.
Thanks. I pulled the strainer out to peek into the reservoir and there is a pool of fluid remaining so I guess I don't need to worry about the brakes. Also, for anyone who makes this same mistake in the future - I cut down the handle on an 11mm offset box end wrench to about 2" to allow it to turn the clutch bleed screw open and closed. I thought I could manage it without a special tool but it was difficult to close the bleed screw with tubing attached. YMMV
Also, the bleed screw for the clutch is larger diameter than the brake, and I found the fluid runs out MUCH faster.
Once I had broken the bleed screw loose, I used a deep socket with vice grips clamped on the outside to turn it. The bleed hose ran thru the square hole in the end of the socket.
I just finished bleeding the brakes and clutch. Thanks to all who have posted on this topic in the past it was a great help.:thanks:
A few points and a request:
1. You can get a good view of the clutch bleeder if you remove the drivers side rear tire.
2. As noted above, the clutch's connection to the reservoir is midway up the reservoir. Fill it completely before starting the clutch bleed or you'll draw in air.
and have to do it again.
3. If you're buying tubing for a drain line, buy 3 feet. Two feet was a bit short. A clear Starbucks' cup and lid made a great container. The measuring lines make it easy to track progress. Very flexible tubing helps. 1/4-inch Tygon fuel line works but is tinted yellow.
If someone who is changing to the blue fluid could record the quantities it takes at each bleeder it would inspire confidence when doing it without the color change. I could not see a difference between the old and new Porsche fluid.
Mr. B, Same thing happened to me recently also with the Motive bleeder. It took me a while and I finally filled the bleeder rather than running it dry like I had started. One last good bleed and the clutch was fine. I did stroke the clutch by hand about 5 times slowly while the line was bleeding. Not sure if this is necessary but I did see it written a few times. C.
