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YOUR RESEARCHNeed help asap with control arm removal
Leading reported evidence
Use car
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My last CTT had none of these ridiculous issues and I've never heard of such a thing going bad on a low mileage, barely used car that is stored in a climate controlled garage most of the time (drive 6-8k miles/yr).
Leading evidence: 'Use car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair including tires' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I then used an old socket under my ball joint separator and cranked it up with my impact driver.
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Suggestion · Original poster
In the approx 5 years I have owned it I'm averaging approx 750/ year in maintenance and repair including tires.
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Suggestion
If it is not too late, I would consider replacing the tie rod ends as well with Turbo S tie-rod ends if you already need an alignment after doing the LCAs.
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Suggestion
Be careful with heat on aluminum, not recommended to use a torch.
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Suggestion
If it is not too late, I would consider replacing the tie rod ends as well with Turbo S tie-rod ends if you already need an alignment after doing the LCAs.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My last CTT had none of these ridiculous issues and I've never heard of such a thing going bad on a low mileage, barely used car that is stored in a climate controlled garage most of the time (drive 6-8k miles/yr).
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Hi,
I have a 2003 996 with 115,00 miles on it now. I am in the middle of a couple of my winter projects with this car already doing spark plug and coil pack removal and upgrading the front struts to bilstein B6 with new tie rod ends and stabilizer links. I am currently
stuck trying to remove my control arm bushing. I was having a lot of trouble trying to get the ball joint to separate from the hub, and tried a harbor freight ball joint separetor using my impact gun and I ended up bending the bolt somewhat. Now I don't know what to do and need some advice. I have enclosed a picture of what things look like right now but please help.
I guess one option would be to cut the bolt off as close to the edge as possible then heat up the hub around the bolt and either try a pickle fork or punch or drill through from above.
As a last resort I could probably buy a used hub with a wheel bearing in it and try that but hopefully I can avoid it. Or (even worse) have it towed to a shop and let them take over but I already did all this other stuff without much problem so far.
I know this thread is two months old now, but for the next person... A little acetone mixed with transmission fluid is an excellent alternative to PB blaster. Be careful with heat on aluminum, not recommended to use a torch. If you heat it, a heat gun would be enough. Aluminum expands very rapidly, more than 0.001" per 100 degrees F.
Hey thanks for replying. I had no help on this forum so I posted this on Rennlist instead and got some useful advice. My name is the same over there if you want to go through all the pictures to see the trouble shooting.
In the end I took the hub assembly off, cut the bent bolt flush with my angle grinder then sprayed Deep creep after heating the area around it with my MAP torch.
I then used an old socket under my ball joint separator and cranked it up with my impact driver. This time I made sure I was completely perpendicular to the socket instead of slightly on an angle. As I cranked it down BOOM the ball joint separated. Scared the crap out of me it was so loud. I was able to do the other side in only about 30 minuets without much trouble.
I have driven the car now about 600 miles and it drives so well I really see no reason to sell it. The trade in value is so low I'll probably keep it for a few more years and maybe get a 997 turbo or a 991 at that time. I have really always enjoyed working on this car and so for haven't needed to take it to the dealer for anything. In the approx 5 years I have owned it I'm averaging approx 750/ year in maintenance and repair including tires.
I haven't had to replace the LCA in my CTT yet, however, if you still need some help I might be able to show you some instructions from the service manual. PM me if it will help.
Quote:
I have done them. Be sure to mark the alignment eccentrics so you can safely drive it straight to the dealer for an aligment.
If you need a press to press the lower Balljoint out of the spindle, oreillys has one that will work, but you wont. Just whack both sides of the spindle at the Balljoint at the same time and it will fall out.
The only bushing that you will need to replace is the rear inner in the lower arm. The bushing for the strut is quite solid and will probably be good still. Make sure to mark the orientation of the old ones before you destroy them taking them out. Just air hammer the old bushing out unless you have the specialized tools. The new ones go in quite easy. Though, you will need a large press to get position the arm correctly and press the bushing in straight.
You can order the standard bushing or get ones for a turbo S. The turbo S version is the same size with a solid rubber instead of reliefs.
I got the turbo S lower arms.
Thanks guys for all the help. I will do this early next week and will post some pics.
Renaissance Man sent me some great info on the procedure and Mr. Haney, thanks for making it sound a little easy.
Quote:
Good call! If it is not too late, I would consider replacing the tie rod ends as well with Turbo S tie-rod ends if you already need an alignment after doing the LCAs. I think the two upgrades would compliment end other.
Just a thought...
These (the bushings) in my 2011 CTT with ONLY 38k miles failed on the driver side and make the "clunking" noise. Believe it or not these are NOT covered by warranty!!! WTF! My last CTT had none of these ridiculous issues and I've never heard of such a thing going bad on a low mileage, barely used car that is stored in a climate controlled garage most of the time (drive 6-8k miles/yr). I have run this up the flag pole at PCNA and just get the "it's a wear and tear item". I TOTALLY DISAGREE and am so pissed that I'm thinking of selling, not buying another and not buying a PTT which I WAS considering added to my stable. Need help?
BTW - the repair is $2k at the stealer and replaces both sides lower control arms since they say the passenger size is going to fail too
EDIT:
just now noticed that I've posted about Panny related parts on Cayenne group ....
They are covered by warranty but only for 4 years or 100 000km what comes first.
Porsche declares that these bushings has been updated since 2010 but I have the same issue with 2012 Panny Turbo S.
And definitely $2k repair is too much, you don't have to buy complete arms, enough onlu bushings, and then bushings doesn't have to be from Porsche, especially when they are not covered by warranty, am I right ?
Here is the list of part numbers for Panny Turbo S '12
No.1 97034105304 - ( Lemforder 3568301) - front lower control arm left x 1
No.1 97034105404 - ( Lemforder 3568401) - front lower control arm right x 1
or
No.2 97034124301 - ( Lemforder 3572801) - front lower control arm/trailing arm bushing x 2
No.3 97034124101 - ( Lemforder 3576001) - front lower control arm outer bushing x 2
No.4 97034124502 - ( Lemforder 3572901) - front lower control arm inner bushing x 2
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
