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YOUR RESEARCHOil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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Replace oil
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Oil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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Leading evidence: 'Replace oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leaks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Here is the inside filter material that needs to be replaced once you remove the oil filter housing.
Oil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
Use 3 and do it in stages
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Oil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
Check leaks
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Oil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
Check oil level
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Oil Change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
986Forum: 1 discussions
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Many of you probably already know how to do this, especially with Pelican Parts and Pedro Parts how to Articles. This short walkthrough is not exactly in order, but you get the idea.
I changed the oil yesterday. 93,400 miles. It was relatively warm out. 40 F degrees.
Just for extra precaution incase the other jacks fail.
It takes 9.2 quarts of 0W-40 Mobil 1 Oil. Open oil cap before draining oil.
You will need a good oil filter wrench. The unversal size filter wrenches do not work well at all. Get the "Dodge Sprint" Oil Filter Wrench from a Pepboys or Autozone. It is a perfect fit for our Boxsters. (Don't ask how I know) Use it with a ratchet to open it.
Here is the oil filter in middle of car. You can see I already drained the oil since the oil drain plug is missing on the bottom of the oil pan. You need an 8mm hex bit to drain the oil.
In this picture you can see the new magnetic oil drain plug I replaced. Now I can use a normal wrench to open the drain plug, making it much easier.
Here is the inside filter material that needs to be replaced once you remove the oil filter housing.
It took about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain. Make sure you drain most of the oil before removing and replacing oil filter.
Inspect oil filter for debris. Luckily, my oil filter had no clear plastic(RMS) or metal(IMS) shards.
After you tighten everything, poor 9 quarts of oil back inside. Check oil level. Add if needed. Start the car. Run for 5 minutes. Rev the engine. Check for leaks. Done.
Here is the short video revving the engine while checking for leaks.
VIDEO0054 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I have been using the curb for years because I didn't want to buy jacks. My car is lowered an inch but I never have any problems getting up on the curb. It is safer too because you know the curb would never fail and drop the car on you.
Nice use of curbing and a good tutorial. One minor nit pick. Your jack stand locations are in very soft points under the car. If the car weight rests on them it will bend stuff you don't want bent.
The jacks in the middle are there for emergency only incase the main jacks fail. They are not actually supporting the car at all as they were about 1-2mm away from touching the bottom of the car. The car was being supported from the jack points only.
I'm not worried. The black rear sway bar or whatever that part is called as well as the Catalytic converters are slighter lower than the oil pan. And I never have any trouble with them scraping. 3 inches of ground clearance is just enough to drive anywhere, except really steep driveways.
I have seen that one before and in my opinion leaving the car on an angle like that by only lifting the back seems like it doesn't allow as much oil to drain out. But he did get 9 full quarts back in there so maybe there is not much difference.
What I do now is drive onto ramps and jack the back up and put on stands, and then after it is done draining I raise and lower the back to see if I can get any more oil out, and usually a decent amount (maybe 4-8 ounces?) comes out. Typing it out I guess it is not very much
On my Toyotas and son's Miata, I also get some side to side raising and lowering but the chassis on the Boxster is too rigid and so that doesn't work.
Overkill? Probably
Unsure if getting that little bit of extra oil out is worth it, but I do it.
At a minimum I would at least have the car level to drain the oil.
I like his method of putting a box around the oil drain pan.
I also usually remove the oil fill cap after removing the drain plug as it slightly slows the initial rush of oil coming out. It comes out FAST!
I'll put in a link tomorrow but I jack from the rear of the car going under the bumper and jack from one of three points, I don't want to describe it wrong so I will post a link/picture in the morning. Then I put the jack stands at the jack points that you can use when changing a tire using the spare tire jack.
There is also a thread on here somewhere, you can put the whole car on 4 stands with only 2 lifts of the jack. I use 3 and do it in stages.
Edit: Figure 2 is where I lift the back, and I usually lift from the left because the way my garage is.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up.htm
For the from I then lift from the factory jack point and put my stand on the reinforced area shown in figure 1.
