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YOUR RESEARCHQuestions about valve lifter replacement
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I just checked the filter now that it is reasonably dry.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
coil packs are around 30k miles and i tested them all no problems, fuel pump also pushing strong pressure.
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We used intake lifers 996.105.255.25 when we changed them out in 2012.
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Suggestion · Original poster
so sorry for the long read but basically i wanted to know if i should just replace the valve lifters and not bother with the springs or just do both since i have the cams off already.
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so my car has been running great for several years. i autocross and track the car about 4 or 5 times a year and daily drive it. the best car ever and i will never get rid of it
. however recently the car started misfiring after hard pulls. would get the car almost to redline all the way up to 4th or 5th gear and she would work perfectly until i let off the throttle. a little after it would start misfiring slightly but only for a few seconds. if i left it at idle it would come right back and keep going. but last week the car completely gave out on me. all cylinders were misfiring but cylinder 6 was the worst one by far. i do all the maintenance on this car myself and checked everything and nothing was wrong. engine oil perfectly clean and a good caramel color. spark plugs are brand new with less than 1k miles on them. coil packs are around 30k miles and i tested them all no problems, fuel pump also pushing strong pressure. but when i did a compression check only cylinder 6 was not holding compression at all. i feared bore scoring but after using a small camera to look inside the bores looked like new. so my deduction is i need to replace the valve lifters in the car and/or the valve springs.
so sorry for the long read but basically i wanted to know if i should just replace the valve lifters and not bother with the springs or just do both since i have the cams off already. my gut feeling from working on cars for years is telling to do the springs as well but if its not needed i would rather not unless it's necessary. i also plan on just replacing the Valvetronic solenoids since everything is already off and i keep reading that they tend to fail.
also if anyone can recommend me all the parts i would need to do this job it would be greatly appreciated. if i do just the lifters i know i will need new bolts for the cam cover along with the sealant for it, the valve lifters for intake and exhaust (obviously), and some new oil to press the lifters into before going in. besides that idk what else to get and just want to make sure i got everything. and if i do the springs ill need the removal tool along with new springs but i don't know if i will be needing the retainer or retainer keepers since I'm using the same valves.
any and all recommendations would be welcome! this is the first time i do this on this car and its my baby so i want to do it correctly with the best stuff.
thanks in advance for the advice!
I am fairly sure a valve spring broke. Myself and a friend were on our way to gingerman race way for a Sunday night scca Thing and all of a sudden as we were passing a few cars there was a flashing engi e light. Misfire cylinder 2. At the next left hand turn there was a not normal sound coming from the engine. I will post a sound clip. It actually does start and run fine but not good to run. I bought some springs from a different engine. Going to pin and put in 750cc injectors at the same time. We will check the cylinders and determine if post one are needed. It has 125,000 miles. Will post pictures along the way.
I am thinking about it. I have heard of so few broken valve springs. I wanted to hear some comments on that . My as least cost part of me says many. The other part says don't bother get new if we are going to do all that anyway.
It is more likely that you had a lifter come apart. This is a common problem for people who run high rpm a lot. 2001 cars are the worst. Don't drive the car, cut up your oil filter to check for metal.
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I would look at cost for new springs and any other potential failure areas to address with the heads off. At your mileage to pull a head and not address a few other areas may be a bad plan.
You might have caught it early enough. Is that aluminum? Those don't look that big, though you won't know until you take it apart. The bigger pieces tear up the oil pump.
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Don't use used springs. Especially ones that have been loose and banging into one another. This can result in surface "dings" which can lead to a stress fracture.
Sorry for you Pat ;-( Was it your black or grey turbo that failed (auto, or 6 speed) ? Was it stock or tuned (higher rpm)?
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2002 996TT seal gray... 997 shifter, UMW tune, Kline exhaust, RS engine mounts.
I know jp. It was the black one . Tip with all the mods... That said I just poked gearstar were the other tip is for the silver car. They will have that back to me in 2 weeks and I can put that in and be back on line . This will give time to do a full tear down . Looks like I will go with new rods and bolts to get the full power out of the k16 billets.
Mods on car
K16 billets
Epl. Tune
5 bar pressure reg
Rss. Engine mounts
3 inch straight through exhaust.
Gt3 rs. Coilovers
Diverter valves
Sway. Bars
1 bar waste gates
Good times. Have you picked a builder yet? I'm pulling my engine out right now due to my new build having its cams set incorrectly. Get a full set of 997 lifters as well. They are updated to handle high RPMs. You might consider a GT3 oil pump if this is a track car.
Yes we will do it here. I happened to have a friend that is a Porsche builder in town. I will buy all the tools. I just checked the filter now that it is reasonably dry. I ran a magnet on a few pleats. It's both aluminum and steel.
OMG .. I just got trounced by an F250 4 door and the little kid in the back flipped me off. It was a cute little finger I think he ment we are number one. We're is the tt when you need it. Not use to the 928 power level. Lol.
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Can you confirm the part number lifters you are using? Visually the old and new style lifters are identical from what I recall. Both intake and exhaust lifters should still be 996 #s. Where have you seen any documentation that backs up the higher rpm claim? Just curious what the reliable limit of the lifters really is.
Btw, I would also recommend replacing the exhaust lifters. 5 years ago I had an exhaust lifter that failed so it's clearly not just an intake lifter issue. The exhaust lifter had visibly collapsed. I posted a thread on it here back then.
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There are 3 versions. The very early cars have the worst ones and the following update look the same as the first ones. The third version that came with the 997 cars still have a 996 part number but I can confirm that they are visibly different from the first version that I replaced in my 2001 car. I don't have documentation that they are better for higher RPM, but I think it is a safe assumption that they updated them to make them stronger and more reliable.
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I have at some point but since then photobucket went in ransom mode which I am not paying them. I don't have any lifters besides my spare gt3 cup ones I am using now.
My car is an 02. We used intake lifers 996.105.255.25 when we changed them out in 2012. I'm assuming this is what you guys refer to as V3. I don't recall them looking any different than what came out of the car. The .25 is the current version listen in PET for the 996/997/TT/GT2. Anyone have pictures of the various versions??
The exhaust lifters we put in at the same time are 996.105.041.72. This is the current number in PET also. The 997TT exhaust lifters are listed as a .73 which is what is listed for the 6GT3 also. Anyone know if the .73 can be used in place of the .72? What is the difference??
