Temp light turns on very dim.

Sitting at a drive through, the temp light turns on very slow and dim. Let the car sit for 20 minutes checked the coolant reservoir the liquid is pink and at the right level between the min and max mark. Started the car no temp light, started driving again 2 miles into the drive and the light turns on again same way slow and dim and stays dim. As im driving the temp gauge starts going down to where the indicator is sitting between 1 and 8 and holding light still dim. Got home parked checked coolant level, the same as before. What would cause this?

Hey guys i just got in the car and started the engine after grabbing lunch and the temp light started blinking. The temp is normal just the light is blinking and i noticed that it idles a little rough when i stop at a light. Any ideas?

Had the car checked out, the cooling system is working great. The temp light only comes on when i turn on the headlights, and 2 light bulbs inside the instrument cluster have gone out. The instrument cluster is on its way out. Do you guys know if the cluster can be fixed or just replaced?

Check you coolant reservoir tank to see if the level is low, this is what causes the blinking light, and if the coolant is contaminated. Hopefully it is just low coolant, which may mean a leaking tanks, a bad cap or a leak elsewhere.

Quotes source post: 4804577

Quote: There are two electrical components that can cause all kinds of seemingly unrelated electrical issues. One is the ignition switch (electrical portion, not the lock) and the other is the headlight switch. The ignition switch can be bought for around $30 (Audi part). The headlight switch is more but not prohibitive. I think they're worth investigating. To confirm that your coolant temps are good, just buy an inexpensive WiFi or Bluetooth ODB-II reader ($15-$30) to use with a smartphone and confirm the temps in realtime while you're driving. The cluster bulbs can be replaced.

The frequency of the flashing light is part of the diagnosis. Here is the long explanation on the flashing coolant light. "Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously."

Thanks for getting back to me, I thought this thread was dead. The temp light comes on only when i turn the head lights on. The ignition switch has been changed 1 month ago. Good idea on the odb reader i will do that. I will also exchange the head light switch.

Pulled the cap off. There is no more collant in it, well what ever is there it looks like a milk shake. Im going to get it towed to the shop. Has any one had this before? Do i have to rebuild the engine? I have had this before on a Honda and a land rover after i replaced the head gasket it ran fine. Would this work the same way?

Quotes source post: 3771554

Oil in the coolant, could be the air oil seperator bad oil cooler seal, or yes a blown/cracked head gasket. One way to tell is to pull the dipstick, if the oil there is clean (no innermix) than the problem is not to serious, if it's there as well look to the heads or oil cooler gasket. Quote:

Took it to the shop this morning. Got it on the lift drained the oil out. It had a good percentage of radiator fluid in there. After draining the oil the mechanic told me that in order for that much mixture to be in the oil, I have had to been driving with the intermix for a while. The car did not give any sings of over heating or that it had a problem until the light started blinking. I will find out more details after more tests.

Got back form the mechanic it is a leaking head gasket. They drained all the oil and flushed out the radiator refilled fluids back drove it around for 20 minutes and it started to mix again. This is not going to be cheap. Im looking at around 5-7k for the fix. Man this sucks.

Just curious what year and how many miles are on your car?

that sucks. Is this something that can be avoided or is it just a wear and tear type issue that happens sometimes?

2000 102,685 miles. Car ran like a champ till this incident. It totally sucks, I don't know if you can avoid stuff like this even if you constantly check fluids and listen to the engine. When I talked to the mechanic he told me the ante freeze was low. Which made it over heat and that warped the head gasket. The heat gauge never ever passed 0 on the 180 mark that I know for sure. But over time and miles it went. I know on my old rover and mustang that happen when the car over heated like it was hot and really over heated for the head gasket to go. Actually on the rover the gasket went at 135k but the car over heated first then it went. ON the Porsche there were no sighs of over heating ever it ran fine. I should of know to check the fluids more often. I was at 7500 miles to my 10k service and since the car ran great I did not think to check. Next time I know.

It's not necessarily overheat that can kill a head gasket. Normal heat cycles and time can cause it. Have you thought about switching over to Cometic head gaskets? This is a good time for a new clutch, IMS bearing, front & rear main seals, timing guides, AOS, spark plugs, etc. All of those items are going to be much easier to access while the engine is out.

Yes agreed all in the works already. Ims and clutch have 30k miles on them, but will defiantly change if needed. The shop is pretty good and honest so if anything needs updating they will let me know.

Sorry to hear what happened. I hope the car get fixed in no time. I am local to you, where are you planning to have the engine work done at?

If there is no fuild then the temp gauge can't measure anything. I doubt it was that low. Could also be a cracked head. I know Dharn55 know all about that.

Hopefully your intermix problem is caused solely by a faulty AOS. However, you may wish to run a web search on the Porsche 996 D CHUNK problem. Cylinder head problems are uncommon for the 996. D Chunk happens more frequently. Best wishes that you need only an air oil separator.

Quotes source post: 4598464

Quote: This was almost 4 years ago...hope it's resolved by now.

I fixed the car and drove it around for year after that, then some one offered me what I had in the car. So why not, I sold it? 3 weeks after I sold it. I met the new owner at a car show and asked him how the cars was and how he was enjoying it. Because I was sure missing it a LOT. His reply was not to good at the moment the trannie was making so much noise that he needed to rebuilt it. Which kind of bummed me out, I was looking for a G50 trannie to swap the stock out with before I sold it. Any way long story short I missed that car so much that last year I bought another one same year same color, almost identical no aero package this time.