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YOUR RESEARCHSlakker Heartech 4.1 build.
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Install pistons
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Leading evidence: 'Install pistons' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install pistons' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
got all camshafts and parts cleaned up (or replaced) and ready for installation.
Tighten 2-3 times without compromising it's integrity
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Also, the TTY camshaft bolt has a margin of error built in and can be tightened 2-3 times without compromising it's integrity.
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Suggestion
In order to find this thread could you or an Admin change the thread title from Heartec to Hartech, please?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I did use a boroscope, but I found it much more useful when inserted from the adjacent cylinder bore.
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I can't believe it's been over a year since I removed the engine from my car for a clutch job and some basic maintenance, and ended up with a full rebuild process.
the plan was to start sooner, but other projects took priority, and finding a local shop for the rotating assembly balancing turned into a project by itself.
but that's water under the bridge, and last weekend I started with the engine assembly.
general info about the build.
the car is a 2002 C2 3.6 withy 60k on the clock.
as part of my maintenance, I removed the cam cover on bank one due to a small oil leak and discovered a broken roller on the timing chain.
you can read more about it here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-unlucky.html
and here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...d-sort-of.html
the engine case halves were sent to Slakker in mid-September and received back in mid-December as promised.
the case came back with a set of 102.6 mm Capricorn pistons with piston pins, circlips, and piston rings.
I also ordered a set of Pauter LW rods, Heartech wide rod bearings, and 102 mm head gaskets from Slakker.
The Crankshaft was installed in the Carrier using new OEM bearings and squirters, and ARP bolts.
New IMSand timing chains were installed, and the crank was dropped into bank one.
How much did the �rebuild� cost? Did it include any head/valve-train work? New Ancillaries - or did they use all your existing? Did you send the motor to them? Whole car? Do tell!
this weekend was the real deal for me.
installed the pistons on bank 1.
Installed the bank 2 half case and the front console/oil pump, and started installing the pistons for bank 2.
I did use a boroscope, but I found it much more useful when inserted from the adjacent cylinder bore.
with that said, using this mirror was a great help, and was making it easier to confirm the circlip is fully seated.
Toward the end of the day, I buttoned up all the parts attached to the block (water pump, thermostat, coolant fittings, etc.) hoping to install the heads on tonight, so I can get to timing the engine by the weekend.
I sent just the block for machining.
https://sr.dev/products/hartech-3-6-...ity-conversion
slakker aranged the fraight pick up and drop of. just needed to pack the block and secure it on a pallet. easy.
thanks to you I was able to prepare everything ahead of time.
organizing the parts tools and torque specs in advance saved me a lot of time during the process.
as for the tool� let�s say I got you a new one.
I will try to post some information tomorrow on how I installed the circlip.
Engine moved back to the garage, and both heads are on.
heads done by Hoffman with new 3.8 spring valve seats and all the other goodie�s.
also went with the stage 2 porting.
maybe tomorrow will start with the camshafts.
Interesting thread, Thanks for sharing
@meirschwartz
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In order to find this thread could you or an Admin change the thread title from Heartec to Hartech, please?
Was a long week at work but I'm still on track.
got all camshafts and parts cleaned up (or replaced) and ready for installation.
the goal for this weekend is to:
- complete the engine timing.
- install cam covers and scavenge pumps.
- move the engine from the stand to the hydraulic table.
- start working on the accessories installation.
I watched Jake Raby's process for the engine timing several times, and although it looks confusing at first (I think there is an editing issue in the video), I think it's a straightforward process if you follow the steps.
I also watched this video by Lee Jankins, and I might take this approach.
You Tube
two things I still have in question, and I would appreciate the opinion of those who have done it before.
1. Once bank one is timed, and the initial torque is applied to the intake camshaft bolt, is it OK to rotate the engine a few times to confirm the correct timing, before applying the second stage angle value for the bolt streach?
the idea is that if adjustments are needed, there is no need to waste the TTY bolt. Jake talks about it in his video but he doesn't follow his instructions afterward.
2. the torque book calls for 30 Nm for the first stage, and 90* for the second. in Lee's video, he is torquing the first stage to 50Nm and the second stage to 120*. is there a difference between the M96 and the M97?
thanks in advance guys.
Yes to first stage tightening and rotation to check. Porsche spec is 50nm stage 1 and 110 degrees stage 2. Setting to U6 for installing caps and tensioner and rotating to TDC should take the slack out of the chain but it doesn't hurt to go ahead and rotate another 720 after stage 1 just to make sure. Also, the TTY camshaft bolt has a margin of error built in and can be tightened 2-3 times without compromising it's integrity. It's also not a bad idea to leave the caps off and check that timing is still spot on as a final step before installing back in vehicle.
