Pics of my Brake System Flushing w/Motive Bleeder

I'm sure this procedure is as simple as changing oil for a lot of folks but it was my first time and the information I got from here and renntech were priceless. I thought I'd pass on my experience and some pics of the procedure to help anyone else that is new to brake bleeding/flushing. I used the renntech DIY article as my guide. The most interesting part was bleeding the clutch. I tried using the procedure noted at renntech but it seems like the final step was allowing air to return back up into the valve. I ended up having my wife pump the clutch pedal for me so I could close the valve while it was still pressurized to prevent air from going back up in there. I know it isn't the exact procedure but the car drove great afterward. I hope there isn't a problem with doing it that way I bought a magnetic bottle to catch the old fluid. I marked it in mL increments to help keep tabs on how much had been flushed from each corner. Removed the plastic cover so I could see what was going on in the reservior. There are 3 screws on the top and one plastic screw on the side. You also have to disconnect the light to be able to fully remove the cover. The plastic screen came out fine, but like some others have said, there was no way I could get a turkey baster down in there. The Motive bleeder came with a little tube (no idea what it was for) that I figured I might be able to use. It was just small enough to squeeze into the slit in the top of the reservior. Anyone with kids will likely have one of these oral medicine syringe things. It fit the tube perfect and allowed me to pull just about all of the fluid out. It took a few minutes at 10mL at a time but I was able to pull almost 300mL out of the reservior. Then it was time to fill it back up with the good stuff. Once it was full I attached the Motive cap to the reservior and presserized to "just under 20psi". Finally a pic of the magnetic bottle in action. One problem I had was that my new and old fluid were very close in color. So close the only thing I had to go on were the numbers Ubermensch gave me for each corner (~0.5L from the PR, ~0.25L from the DR, ~0.15L from the PF, ~0.1L from the DF). I think I ended up flushing a bit more than I needed to but I bought extra so it was fine.

Thanks great pictures!

JA, Dat's da good stuff Mac !! you will be done worrying about boiling - do you track this car? are those bolt on spacers?

My first track day is Sunday. I'm nervous but excited! Ya those spacers were on when I bought the car.

Glad everything went smoothly!

nervous = safe you're OK!! it wont be as hard as your mind made it out to be...our days are very social and fun....the driving is only about a 1/3 to a 1/4 of your day so walk around and talk to people... I would refrain from leaning much more than how to relax and drive the line....any car "set-up" or other suggestions wont do you much good the first couple times out....its just learning where to drive, dont try to be fast...just be right...speed will come later

Question... I have Castrol SRF fluid and I think I need to flush it out completely in order to go with the motul 600. What would be the best way of doing so ? By following your steps, would you consider that a full flushing ? or just a bleed ? Looks like a complete flush to me but I'll be doing this next week so I wanted to double check BTW, very good pictures and great article.

Nice write-up and pics. Thanks for sharing. I'd like to do a flush on my car again but this time I'd like to try the dry(?) method. The last time I changed my Pcar brake fluid I used a buddy's bleeder and filled the pressurized bottle with the brake fluid but I was worried the bleeder would leak or worse yet, blow a hose. Has anyone here tried the dry method. I assume you simple empty the car's reservoir, refill it with fresh fluid, attach and pressurize bleeder, and then repeat the process once the car's reservoir gets low again. Of course, with this method you need someone to watch the reservoir to make sure the level doesn't get too low while you�re bleeding each corner.

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Just follow the brake bleeding/flushing procedure outlined on Renntech and you'll be fine. No problems with switching fluid brands.

Ya what I did was a full flush (followed the renntech article.) The only thing I wanted to do but wasn't sure how was flush/bleed the abs. Afterwards I did go out on the road and trigger the ABS just to make sure my car didn't explode killing me and everyone around me. It worked fine As far as the dry vs wet method I can see the appeal of the dry method and will probably do that next time. I'll probably setup the motive with quick disconnects so I don't have to pump up the pressure every time I stop to refill the reservoir. Hell for that matter I guess I could just use my air compressor as long as I kept it under 20psi.

more questions 1/ did anyone use the durametric software to activate their ABS pump while doing the flush ? if yes, when this should be activated, beginning of the flush I assume ? 2/ doing the clutch flush seems a pain, considering the location of the bleeder valve. Can the system be flushed completely without doing the clutch bleed ? I mean only bleeding through the caliper bleeding valves ?

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I can't comment on the durametric software as I am not familiar with it. However, when I flushed my own brakes I did not do anything to the ABS or the clutch. I only bled the brakes using the caliper bleeder valves. Although I'm very interested to hear what other DIYers here have done in regards to the ABS and clutch. When I've had the dealer do the brake flushes on my 996 I just assumed that they also bleed the clutch and took care of the ABS as well. Would I be wrong in assuming that?

I recently bought a Motive brake bleeder , but haven't yet bled my brakes which are overdue. Thanks for the pics and procedure. Now I'll tackle this job once I purchase some brake fluid. Thanks.

No idea on the ABS system. I didn't mess with mine when I flushed. I think doing the clutch is optional but I figured I already had the wheel off and the car on stands so I went for it. I'm kinda glad I did. I don't know if it is all in my head or what but the clutch feel seems much better.

dotframe: thankx for the info and pix. It was suggested that I bleed the brakes before my last track event. I have never done it and I decided not to try a "first timer", for my last half day event. Besdiies, I wasn't sure how much fuid would be used and I have a new, unopened bottle of Motul 600 fluid that I didn't want to use. Once you break the seal, it is only good for about one month, as it will absorb moisture...so I kinda figured it would be a waste since the car was going into ( is now in) hibernation. I will wait to next year and perform this regularly.

I don't think durametric can trigger the abs, I know the piwi can and I believe that is how the dealers do it.... according to Loren, its not a big deal as its far from the brake calipers to make a difference. The clutch is optional, but I prefer to do it.

Pete and I both use the dry method....its easier IMO as for brake fluid Steve...for street the Castrol GT LMA is cheap and really good...used it on the 996...its like $14/qt vs $35/pint for motul (guessing on those prices, dont hold me to them)

How much did your bleeder gizmo cost you? That looks really neat. 3 or 4 years ago I did mine the old fashioned way, but this looks really cool, sorta like the uview 55000 coolant vacuum system.

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+1 This was my understanding too. I think I'll try the ATE Super Blue next time just for the satisfaction of seeing the color change. I did the brakes and clutch about a year ago. Pretty easy stuff.

I got everything from amazon. The Motul was $15 for each 500mL bottle. The "black label" Motive bleeder was $69. The difference between it and the regular one is the aluminum cap that swivels vs the standard plastic one that doesn't swivel. The magnetic bottle was $10

You bled the clutch, too... right? Good work - it's satisfying, isn't it!

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Yep, do not mix Motul with Castrol or normal DOT5 fluids. I think that the abs and clutch system should be flushed allso. Motul rbf600 The stock fluids will work fine (must be fresh) for the stock brakepad's. I think that the main reason for brake fade is that the driver don't know how to brake right. (This is just my observation, not related to the OP of this thread )

Dotframe thanks for the writeup. I used a Motive bleeder a few weeks ago before an event. Very easy to do with the pressurized container. Only needed 1 set of hands and worth the $45.00 investment for future brake jobs. Anyone contemplating doing this themselves.... do it... with this setup the hardest part is removing/re-installing the wheels. I bought an impact hammer and now tire changing and brake maintenace are a breeze.

I admit as well that brake fade is a common newbie error that I did myself for quite some time. when you start you brake too soon too long. the idea to avoid brake fade is to brake hard but not long. minimizing the time on the brake and increasing cooling times.

I think this is a very useful thread in terms of stating the amount of fluid to drain per caliper to prevejt from using the blue fluid.

Gray, keep in mind those volumes are approximate. Ideally I like to change from blue to gold to keep things easy. Cycling the ABS shouldn't be necessary unless you introduce air into the system. To avoid that situation I don't completely drain the reservoir. I pull probably 150-200 ml. I've never measured but I think my syringe is 50 ml and I get 3 good pulls.

Anything different for cars with PSM? Heard something about the valves needing to be opened/closed with the software.

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I didn't even need to remove the wheels - can access the bleed nipples through the turbo twists ... So I guess it depends what wheels you have. Used ATE200 fluid ... No issues at the track ...

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How do you get to the inside bleeder valve with the wheels on? Seems like a lot of effort, not sure how you could fit in a wrench nor connect the drain hose properly with that little clearance Small hands?

If you have a Motive, be sure to check the hose and replace periodically. I was bleeding my brakes last night when the hose from the tank sprung a leak in-line and sprayed pressurized brake fluid all over my car. Great tool though. Just fyi.

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What inside bleeder valve?!

each caliper has two bleed nipples. an inside (closest to the car) and an outside (closest to the wheel). Right next to each other on the caliper.

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Exactly. I still don't understand

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I have a feeling Mr. targa996 unintentionally learned something useful here... and saved from blowing a corner and/or ramming into someone while on track due to original fluid on the inboard side of his calipers... yikes.

Quotes source post: 9030586

This is inaccurate. You can definitely operate the ABS pump via Durametric using Activations under the ABS heading: Durametric lists "Brake bleeding activations" as one of its "special features" for the 996, and it also works on 964 C4, 986, 987, and 997. The "Pro" version of Durametric has the "Coding" functionality, allowing you to modify some options (such as whether the side markers on some vehicles blink when the turn signal is on) - but otherwise, the "Enthusiast" version and the Pro version are very similar in function. Operating systems like ABS, SAI all work, and you can also clear airbag lights if you forget to disconnect the battery before you unplug a seat or door bag.

When I first picked up my Motive I was using it completely wrong. Their instructions are wrong. What you've posted here is correct. To make sure anyone that comes across this knows: Wrong way (Motive Instructions) - Add two bottles of your desired fluid and pressurize the system. You'll never get all of the fluid out of the Motive into the system which is wasteful. Correct way (above) - Never ever add any fluid to the Motive. Top off the brake fluid in the reservoir. Check the Motive lines before every use (brake fluid is nasty stuff). Connect the Motive to the reservoir and use it to pressurize the system. 10-15psi is more than enough. Bleed/Flush away and watch the reservoir.

^^ +1

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Yes this is still true...besides I'm the Pete my buddy ivangene (Ed) was talking about.