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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNeed help identifying a coolant hose
Leading reported evidence
Replace lower hose in the picture
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Finished the project over the weekend, consisting of changed the lower hose in the picture, changed cracked and leaking coolant resivoir, new coolant level sensor and new motor mounts.
Leading evidence: 'Replace lower hose in the picture' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect coolant hoses and get it way down' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a 12mm length in that one and 10mm length is all the others.
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Suggestion
may as well disconnect the coolant hoses and get it way down.
Disconnect trans just remove the slave and tie it off
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Suggestion
no need to disconnect the trans just remove the slave and tie it off.
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Suggestion · Original poster
While I’m there also change coolant and this one hose but I need help identifying it.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Finished the project over the weekend, consisting of changed the lower hose in the picture, changed cracked and leaking coolant resivoir, new coolant level sensor and new motor mounts.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
I think you mean the one in my clip, you need to remove alternator and drivers side intake runner, the pinning is a safety thing not really needed if you use the correct loctite adhesive which has a truly massive shear strength!
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37 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hello I have a 2003 911 carrera 2 with 112,00 miles. I am planning to relplace my coolant expansion tank and motor mounts. While I’m there also change coolant and this one hose but I need help identifying it. Can’t tell on Porsche diagrams.
I had the fitting directly below the oil filter pop completely out and lost all my coolant. I took a few things apart-y pipe, alternator etc and I see I need to take off the oil filter housing and brackett below it. Can I do this with the engine in the car. I need to re-epoxy and pin with a right angle drill. While I am in there I will pin all of the non leaking fitting ala sharkworks.
Has anyone removed the bracket below the filter housing? Thanks Mike
Glad to help. If you’re a DIYer on this car and wanna make dealing with the cooling system easier, pick one of these up if you don’t already have one...
Astro Pneumatic Tool 9409A Hose Clamp Pliers
Amazon
Amazon
all the intake has to come off. oil filter and mount stays on. with the motor in the car you have to drop it as low as possible. may as well disconnect the coolant hoses and get it way down. its almost impossible to get the intake off with the motor in but it can be done. get ready to bleed at the knuckles! you will have to remove the secondary air pump, the a/c compressor, the p/s pump. leave the p/s and a/c connected to the hoses and hang them over the back end of the car .
honestly if your going to do all the fittings its really easier to pull the motor. no need to disconnect the trans just remove the slave and tie it off. since the coolant is already gone the worst part os over. not so much to spill out. you will thank yourself if you do. in the car is a major major BIATCH!!
Finished the project over the weekend, consisting of changed the lower hose in the picture, changed cracked and leaking coolant resivoir, new coolant level sensor and new motor mounts. Also put new coolant. Car runs real well and was a rewarding DIY. Thanks for the help about the hose. It was looking real cruddy and thought this was a good time to replace it.
you still have to remove everything i said to get to the fitting under the filter . all that has to go to get to the intake manifold. leaving it in the car really doesn't help much in this case. if it was a w/p fitting or under the p/s it would be different but oil cooler it all has to come out
as an example i had 3 clamps on the intake runners turned towards the oil tank. there is no way to get to them unless the ,motor is out and you can reach it from the back.
Quote:
I think the one he means can be got too by removing just the drivers side intake runner dude!
Is it this one?
Porsche 996 Turbo Coolant Pipe - YouTube
I think you mean the one in my clip, you need to remove alternator and drivers side intake runner, the pinning is a safety thing not really needed if you use the correct loctite adhesive which has a truly massive shear strength! But absolutely pin the others as that will protect against a massive failure although they will still leak if the Porsche adhesive lets go.
Quote:
it always looks so easy with the motor out. the intake is a one piece unit. theres no way possible to get it out of the way with everything installed. in order to get to the back runners and get the clamps off you have to dissect the engine to a point you may as well remove it.
i have done this twice now. it just isn't an easy
Yeah after looking at it again, I think once the drivers side intake is removed and alternator also I can get an angle drill and tap in through the side from left to right
Quote:
So is the locktite the only sealer that I use. And what locktite product is it again? So you feel that this fix without pinning would be OK?
thanks for your help, Mike
My aplogies its a 3M adhesive you need
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/epoxy-...sives/4587292/
or
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4254825&rt=rud
or there is a stronger one I cannot find that is black, these are far stronger and deal with heat better than any others we have tried but you do need ther aplicator gun and mix nozzles as well
I can't find it, but there's an AMAZING thread on a guy doing most fittings in the car and I believe if you get a small bit on a right angle drill it's not that bad to do.
Quote:
you can't remove just the intake on the drivers side. you have to remove the ENTIRE intake in 1 piece. the amount of effort your going to use to try to get this out and you can have the engine out and pin all the fittings. its up to you. good luck either way
Quote:
can't say. to me intake is the intake manifold. hence the name "intake"
that fitting in the video can be done with the a/c p/s and secondary air removed. my thought is if 1 fitting is loose how long before another comes out? most say "when i lose a fitting ill address them all" this is that time. do it once do it right and forget about it
Quote:
You can remove the intake and plenum and leave the intake runners on the pass side so you dont need to remove the air pump, ive done it many times.
I did mine this week. I not only pinned all seven fittings I also did the sharkwerks elbows. Regarding the fitting in question it can be done in the car. With that being said I would not change the plastic elbows while the engine is in the car. It's less than simple with the engine out of the car let alone in the car.
Quote:
How did you prevent the shavings from going in the engine when you drilled & tapped them for the pin? I have have one that came apart that I will re- adhere & pin, the others I was only planning on pinning them but was wonder were the shavings are going to go if I do it on the engine with the castings still on the car.
Quote:
The material your drilling is cast aluminum, when drilled it created a very fine chip. Drill into the fitting 8mm or so and just before breaking through blow the chips away. The natural helix of the drill bit wants the bring the material to the top. I would surmise that there is a little bit of chips that would get in but nothing to be worried about.
If your using a 4mm screw for 75% thread profile it requires a 3.3mm drill which is around
.128 I drilled all mine with a .125 drill in anticipation of the hand drill not being exactly concentric to the bore.
The only one that's interesting is directly under the oil filter and is to be drilled at an angle. I used a 12mm length in that one and 10mm length is all the others.
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