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YOUR RESEARCHG series backdate to RSR
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Fill with old 911s body panels
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
And so does Magnus Walker, who even has a “chop shop” filled with old 911s body panels.
Leading evidence: 'Fill with old 911s body panels' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'easiest way, yet you'll still have' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill with old 911s body panels' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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My hood is an SC that had a fibreglass extension fitted onto it.
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I swapped my SC hood for one that had already been backdated from a mate.
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Nothing I had done to backdate my SC wasn't reversible until I hit a guard rail, and one side has been replaced with a steel indicator bezel.
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I used fibreglass front indicator bezels for mine from rennspd.com
Replace panels it's all reversible and pukka looking rsr in
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I commend your vision to get the car that you want and reckon it's worth serious investigation, what are describing will look amazing and if you replace the panels it's all reversible and pukka looking RSR in that blue colour would look fantastic.
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There's also the option of running a fibreglass hood and some old school straps that secure to the front bumper, or flush mount latches that bolt to the existing latch panel at left and right.
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If you wanna do it right, and don't want to use fibreglass and happy to spend some coin, find some old SC guards, buy the metal bezels and have them fitted.
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easiest way, yet you'll still have
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Jeff's idea of swapping the guards is probably the easiest way, yet you'll still have to cut and grind to make them fit, unless you get lucky and they line up perfectly with good panel gaps at the doors...which I highly doubt they will.
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Porsche Forum Australia: 1 discussions
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Hi all,
I am considering backdating my 911 SC, which the previous owner has already done a few backdating bits to already. They wanted to make an IROC RSR out of it, but I am more keen on a longhood RSR version.
I have researched and found a few workshops online that supply the required body kits
- TRE motorsports
- DP motorsports
- Getty Design
I know I will need a new set of front fenders, hood, front and rear bumpers, which seems fairly straightforward. I already have wide body rear panel and duck tail on my car.
What I am unclear about is the hood. Most hoods seem to require cutting out and welding in a part of the panel to fit the latch. TRE motorsports seems to have a version that doesn’t require any chopping and welding.
Has someone tried a backdate project without cutting out and welding stuff in for the hood? I have looked online and most examples (including our own
@MFX
home built required hacking and welding panels.
You would have to be bonkers to chop up that. It’s mint how it is, especially in the arrow blue! Spend the money tweeking the mechanicals instead. That’ll be a lot more fun
I used fibreglass front indicator bezels for mine from rennspd.com
Nothing I had done to backdate my SC wasn't reversible until I hit a guard rail, and one side has been replaced with a steel indicator bezel.
Give me a shout if you want to know more
I commend your vision to get the car that you want and reckon it's worth serious investigation, what are describing will look amazing and if you replace the panels it's all reversible and pukka looking RSR in that blue colour would look fantastic.
Thanks. Yeah it’s pretty nice, which is why I have kept it as it is for the last 3 years. The mechanicals are pretty sorted too, so not much to do there as well. I guess it’s either a desire to own a longhood or the boredom from COVID that’s making me consider the backdating option.
Thanks
@LeeM
will do!
There's also the option of running a fibreglass hood and some old school straps that secure to the front bumper, or flush mount latches that bolt to the existing latch panel at left and right.
My hood is an SC that had a fibreglass extension fitted onto it. It uses the original latch and I've put a wire with a ring on it to open it.
You don't need to cut anything if you source the right bits. And for what its worth, TRE Motorsports are expensive
This is what I used for my indicator bezels from rennspd.com
Pretty crap quality really, but a little stuffing around with a Dremel and sander sorts it out
Yep, they fit straight on to existing SC guards...with some adjustment of the bezel (e:g pie cut/trimming etc). I actually used hot melt glue to hold them in place on the guard once I'd shaped and fitted as well as I could get them (very strong glue too), then bogged the small gap and laid fibreglass sheet over the top. I've never done this sort of thing before, and how I did it is probably deemed as dodgy (I'm not going to argue that analogy). I could have spent more time using bog and sanding etc, but I'm very impatient and not fussy.
The only thing I had to cut on the whole car, was the rear reflector panel. You can't fit a backdated bumper without doing that, yet keep the piece thats removed and a good welder can refit it easily enough. From starting to cut that rear centre panel off, to having the backdated bumper fitted and secured exactly where I wanted it was within 2 hours. The front took probably a few evenings of mucking around with the bezel. Trim, fit, trim, sand, fit, trim etc. Total cost of it all including second hand fiberglass bumpers, bezels, old front indicator lenses, bog and fibreglass kit was around $2000. I swapped my SC hood for one that had already been backdated from a mate. I sold all my original bits which covered that and some change.
Depends how handy you are, you could do it in a weekend if you're not mega fussy and have the bits ready. I have an RS front bumper I'm not going to use, so let me know if you want it and we can work out a cheap price
Feel free to call me anytime if you want to have a chat about it all
Lee
0407942151
This is how they turned out with no cutting of the guard or anything else. I only removed some brackets and the shockers underneath for the impact bumpers
I'm not going to say they were perfect, and in all honesty I should have A. Been a lot more patient, or B. Used metal bezels and had them welded on by a pro, but that wasn't in my budget
So you will have a few bits left over and already painted Arrow Blue....handy for me
🙂
Don’t do it....there are enough of these longhood things around already.
Yeah I have looked into that as well. That would be much easier, but I find IROC bumpers too plain, lacking a bit of character. But that would complete the build and won’t require any cutting/ welding/ chopping bits.
My bonnet did not require any cutting of the front structure. It has a short hood inner skin with a long hood outer so the latch hasn't been moved. I did weld on an extension as you can no longer reach the latch with the long hood in place.
The front is easy. Set aside your current front guards and get some long hood guards and a bonnet like mine (from Mike Tankard).
The rear is where you have to cut if you want a backdate. You have to remove the support bracket from behind the reflector panel if you want that look.
That said, as the others have eluded to, it would be much better to just swap out for Iroc bumpers and go with a duck tail or flat decklid for a hot rod look. Much easier and less invasive.
But he wants a longhood
😅
Jeff's idea of swapping the guards is probably the easiest way, yet you'll still have to cut and grind to make them fit, unless you get lucky and they line up perfectly with good panel gaps at the doors...which I highly doubt they will. If you wanna do it right, and don't want to use fibreglass and happy to spend some coin, find some old SC guards, buy the metal bezels and have them fitted. Thats the three options you have.
The way I did it with the fibreglass bezels was the cheapest option for me.
Put the IROC spoiler under the G series bumper in place of the valance, retaining the bellows and the rubber trims, then it wouldn’t look so “bland” .Probably requires cutting the IROC bumper off the spoiler though, or transfer the rubber pieces to the IROC, but I think there is a recess in the G series bar for the rubber strip.
As with all these spoilers, where do you put the number plate ?
...and put a whale tail on it.
I think doing it as a 3.0RS would look amazing! Change the bumpers and wing, delete the sill trims, chrome headlight rings, gold side script and wheel centres. It would look the absolute tits!!! In fact here is one I prepared earlier
Amazing hack! Thanks for sharing. Quite surprised how well it’s turned out for the price and the effort you put in.
Yeah I am coming to the same conclusion. IROC seems like an easy route. Just not sure if it will look better than it’s current looks and whether it’s worth the time/ effort.
Yeah. I really do want a longhood. But maybe that needs to be a different car than trying to convert this into one.
Chopping rear reflector is news to me and that effectively kills my longhood plans.
IROC sounds like the best option here. Just need to be sure it’s worth the effort.
The metal sill cover with the black trim that runs under the doors. If you’re going to backdate the car to long hood spec you would be deleting it anyway. Just a couple of screw holes to weld up and respray the sill when you’re getting the bumpers done. Fairly simple to do.
You could also do an SCRS front bumper if you didn’t want the front oil cooler opening
Ah I see now. Never even noticed the lack of sill between these models. I do like the black contrast it brings with Arrow Blue. Between the impact bumper, door sills, side scripts and rear guards, there is a nice black that runs along the car.
Gotta think this through before spending $ on a conversion. M
Nope. You either go all in or not.
That said, your car is not original anyway, as it obviously has already chopped before for the widebody, so if it is what you really want. Go for it. The reflector mount, needs to be cut out, but you can keep it and weld it back in later if you ever want to revert it back.
True. But it was done by the previous owner so I didn’t see it on the operating table getting those wide flares fitted.
I can’t place why I am hesitant to it. I love RWBs and enjoy watching Nakai San chop classic 911s. And so does Magnus Walker, who even has a “chop shop” filled with old 911s body panels. I would love owning those outlaws but don’t have the heart to do it myself
🤦♂️
@blue_ixxi
Maybe you should talk to
@AndrewW
As he told me today he didn't actually cut the rear panel off, but drilled out the spot welds
Will send him this link to see what he comes back with
So sell it and buy a pre-74 or a backdate. Simple.
ps. If you buy a backdate, then get used to explaining it (they are easy to spot).
Ps. I have a mate thinking of selling his RWB if that is of interest.
I think if you don’t have the heart the best bet for a backdate is sell your nice example and pick up a LHD import that has been converted to RHD and isn’t in great shape. Problem being though those cars are now hard to come by and not as cheap as they used to be.
Out of interest what is the going rate for a RWB?
The RWB thing is really about what the base is and what else has been done to it. At the end of the day it is just a very well marketed fibreglass body kit.
Give Michael Harris a shout - he did all the work to tidy this car up. I recall driving it - if I spent any money on it, it would be on the engine...
https://promotive.com.au/
I have a few 100mls of Arrow Blue paint left over if you need
Yeah that is such a beauty. So tempting!
Yes have spoken to Michael. Sadly he is in Brisbane and I am in Sydney, so apart from the car history that he already shared in a lot of detail, I can't get him to help with much else.
Interesting comment about engine. I find it pretty sorted, roughly 205bhp, pulls strong and smooth and only done 50K kms since rebuild. What work do you suggest I do to it?
It's great standard engine. But the set up, cosmetics, widths and rubber would suggest it has a bigger heart
It's crying out for a 3.5l ITB screamer or a 964 3.6 transplant
I hear you and you make a great point. It is a matching numbers Aussie delivered car, so there is a bit of hesitation to change out the engine on my part. If the engine needed rework, I would have definitely considered rebuilding it as a higher displacement engine.
I will take your feedback and keep a look out for a 3.2 or 3.6 engine out of later models
Bravissimo...wide boy and an accompanying soundtrack.
IROC is a kinda correct re:VIN and Brutta Bella . But like all n sundry say if you got the tingly feels for a long hood, get out the grinder. It’s only time time and more money. And it’s just a car
Looking forward to holiday progress
Edit: made a slight mod to your engine theory
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