7 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRear control arm degree of difficulty
Leading reported evidence
Replace front & rear control arms/links/inner & outer tie rods
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Years ago I replaced all front & rear control arms/links/inner & outer tie rods on my 99 996 C2.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
If you adjust the bushings on the new part to approximate the angles on the original it saves a lot of time especially the tuning fork as it can be adjusted in 3 planes.
Leading evidence: 'Replace front & rear control arms/links/inner & outer tie rods' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust bushings' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
If you adjust the bushings on the new part to approximate the angles on the original it saves a lot of time especially the tuning fork as it can be adjusted in 3 planes.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
For those who have done it how hard is it to change the rear as opposed to the front .
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Not having to remove the wheel carrier in the rear to replace the shock was a plus.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Since I was replacing the stock tow arm with an adjustable one I just cut it with a sawzall which gave me more space and leverage to work on getting the bolt out.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Adjust bushings
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
If you adjust the bushings on the new part to approximate the angles on the original it saves a lot of time especially the tuning fork as it can be adjusted in 3 planes.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Since I was replacing the stock tow arm with an adjustable one I just cut it with a sawzall which gave me more space and leverage to work on getting the bolt out.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T063944Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Gentlemen and Ladies
so I did the front control arms and drop links as well as the tie rods this weekend. FCP has a great video and all told took about 5 hours without too much drama.
went well enough that I'm considering doing the rear as well. The video looks a bit more involved. I'm looking at doing the FCP kit (coffin, dog bones and tuning fork) and adding the drop links for the sway.
For those who have done it how hard is it to change the rear as opposed to the front .
I do have a lift which makes things a lot easier
aside from the drop links is there anything else I should be changing out while I'm there.
FCP has everything for 10-15% off right now but the sale ends tomorrow
thanks
M
Years ago I replaced all front & rear control arms/links/inner & outer tie rods on my 99 996 C2. I did not find the rear suspension to be more difficult than the fronts. In fact I would dare say the rear was easier since there is no steering rack boots and inner tie rods or McPhearson strut bearings to fuss with. Just good ol knuckle draggin bolts to un-do.
I just did the front suspension refresh on my now current 996 C4 a few months ago after noticing a clunk over rough roads. Now looking to do the rears as well. If FCP is having a sale I'll be bustin my knuckles here before summer to refresh the rear suspension as well.
I'm adding your list is sway bar bushings, new shocks and shock mounts. Technically you're supposed to use the caliper bolts only once too (right...?) so I add those to the shopping cart.
I recently refreshed all the suspension bits in my C2, and I didn't find it any harder or easier than the front... just more things to uninstall and reinstall. Not having to remove the wheel carrier in the rear to replace the shock was a plus.
You guys have sold me. I'm hoping to get some coil overs when I have the cash so I'll hold off on the shocks for now. I've added the drop links and the bushings.
Thanks
M
Thanks to everyone who convinced me to go for it. Just finished up the rears. It wasn�t any more technically challenging than the front. It can certainly be done in a day or so.
Of course there are always the unexpected problems. For me the lower coffin arm ball joint would not pop out on the drivers side. Eventually, with enough motivation, blood, sweat, tears and rage I got it out. Turns out the pickle fork was hitting a ridge. Moral of the story is angle the front slightly towards the outside of the car. Passengers side popped right out. If you adjust the bushings on the new part to approximate the angles on the original it saves a lot of time especially the tuning fork as it can be adjusted in 3 planes.
id also like to send out a special thanks to PB blaster. First time using it and wow.
For anyone considering a suspension refresh it�s definitely worth it. Took a quick drive yesterday (still need to get an alignment but the car was tracking true) . The car feels 1000% better. Before the car was floaty into corners and was a bit shifty holding the line. Now it�s point and shoot. For me the rears made a much bigger difference than the front but YMMV.
I did a full adjustable setup on the rears a couple years ago - all pretty simple. The only real problem I ran into was one of the bolts in the drivers side tow arm was seized/frozen (ie: I got the nut off but the bolt itself was stuck in the subframe). Since I was replacing the stock tow arm with an adjustable one I just cut it with a sawzall which gave me more space and leverage to work on getting the bolt out. Good luck
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