Anyone using Castrol Edge 0W40 or Motul 300V 0w40?

Hey guys I have been using Castrol in all my cars and Motul for motorcycles for the last 24 years. Everything I find regarding Porsches says they highly recommend Mobile -1 oil. I understand Oil company + Porsche factory corroboration but I can't find any Mobile-1 oils that are specifically formulated for Porsche engines, like the Castrol TWS series for BMW M engines. Are any of you using the castor 0W40 or Motul 300V 0w40? I know oil questions are completely subjective and everyone has their preference. Just wondering if some of you have tried the Castrol Edge 0W40 Thank you in advance

The 300v is a great oil, but from what I recall the lifecycle of the additive package is very short. I prefer the Motul 5w-40 Xcess, (and a 5w cold weight in general). Another (superior) option to all of the above thoughts is Joe Gibbs DT40 developed by Jake Raby and Charles Navarro specifically for the flat six.

What you need to look for is that your oil of choice meets the Porsche A40 specification. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets it, as does Amsoil 5W-40 and Castrol Edge . There's plenty of other oils that meet it, too. Just search for Porsche A40 and you'll find the list out there on the interwebs. Cheers, Kevin

Pentosin 5W-40 for deep South Texas where temps rarely drop below the 40s.

Liqui Moly 10W60 from Amazon LIQUI MOLY - Motor Oils, Additives, Car Care - Products - Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60

Like this one...

I haven't got very good experience with Castrol edge when I tried it in my previous cars. I dont have any diagnostics or scientific evidence but it did loose its "smoothness" faster than the 2 below. Could feel it more in my 4 cylinder engines as they arent inherently as smooth as the 6's. So far the most suitable engine oils (for 10k-12k kms interval) have been Petronas Syntium (if its sold there) and Mobil 1 (which I currently use in the 987).

I too have thought of using this oil. Do you have any analysis of the oil you could share. Thx

I use Castrol TWS 10w60 in my M3 . It's the only oil approved for that engine. For my 981 , I use Mobil 0w40. Basically, I use whatever oil the manufacturer recommends since I don't have any hard data to do otherwise.

any oil analysis comparison from Mobil1 5W-50 vs Mobil1 0W-40? I've been reading good things on the a40 approved Liquimoly

I used the TWS in my E39 M5, and I agree with using manufacturer recommended oil.. What I find interesting is that BMW M engines require especially formulated oil for said engines ( oils that go beyond the standard additives required by that Manufacturer) yet Porsche requires just the A40 standard and no additional/especially formulated oil for its engines. Dont get me wrong, I love not paying $15 a quart like i did for the TWS, but surely a decade+ old corroboration between Mobile and Porsche would have resulted in a formula suited for Porsche engines only. I am not a chemical engineer so who knows...

Go ahead and beat on me. I use Mobil 1 10-40. Spec is 5-40. Everybody goes 5 under with 0-40. It gets hot here and that just seems too thin for me. At 70k + miles I feel the bearing clearances are loose enough to flow 10-40.

When the engine is up to operating temp (i.e., about 210 degrees), 0w-40, 5w-40, and 10w-40 all flow like a SAE 40 weight oil. It's only when the engine is cold that the oils perform differently. The 0w-40 flows the easiest at cold temps, which is great to cover all the engine parts asap after a cold start.

Joe Gibbs 5w40 as recommended by Flat-6. Has more zinc or whatever the key additive is for lubricity. He will not guarantee his engines if they don't have Joe Gibbs oil in them. I don't have a Flat-6 build motor, but he also says, "if you want your motor to last, use this...even for stock motors." I have an '06 CS with 106K miles that runs better than new. :cheers:

The Joe Gibbs oil with the ZDDP whatever is good for engines but does not comply with the spec for the Porsche approved oil grade classification. Mobil 1 has oils for racing too, and for motorcycles and high mileage applications, with high ZDDP levels but they aren’t Porsche approved either since using them could damage the emission system. Exxon pays the most to have the Mobil 1 sticker on Porsches compared to all the other manufacturers on the Porsche approved oil list. With so many manufacturers and oils on the list, it really comes down to personal preferences for whatever reason to pick a good synthetic. I've been using Redline for years and it’s not even on the approved list but it meets the approved oil grade classification.

I started with M1 0W40 early last year wiht 23k on 2007 car. I purchased the SC in Dec with oil change records, every 4000 miles. I noticed notable timing chain noise, then changed to Castrol 5W-50 and the chain noise went away. Motor seems very happy with this oil, so I am buying more, not that I dislike M1, but my second oil change was with M1 5W-50 weight, which still had chain noise. I believe the Castrol has more ZDDP and other additives and is much more expensive than M1. I guess the long term use and any mantance problems will be the judge. I live in Seattle where the winter tempature is not severe, so start up is still ok. It takes a while to get the moisture out of the oil though, as measured by the oil gage. My engine burns very little oil between changes.

The other notion is the filtration and any potential oil sepage into the IMS bearing . This brings me to believe that 3500 miles is about as far as I want to go with oil changes. I also am changing to a Corvette screw on filter, bigger filter and smaller particles will be picked up. I will be using a large magnet on the outside of the filter to get any metal floating around in the oil as well. Currently, I am completely opening up the paper filter to examine it and wipe off the magnetic in the drain plug .

I use Motul 5 - 40 here in FL. My understanding is that most engine damage is a result of cold starting an engine until such time as it warms up enough for the oil to flow freely. I don't know the time difference, but 0 weight oil and 5 weight oil, but 0 weight will flow sooner than 5 weight. I'm wondering if all of us should be using a 0 cold weight oil regardless of location? On the Joe Gibbs oil I think there's a different oil recommended for track use vs normal driving for those of us who don't have a dedicated track car.

I've used Motul 5-40. When it became difficult to get and expensive, I changed to Total 5-40 "platinum" or some such???. Total owns Motul and their Euro grade oil is the same a Motul . I think it's better than Mobil One for our cars. As far as Joe Gibbs goes, I buy it by the case online and it's about the same as other premium oils in cost. The reason I buy Joe Gibbs DT40 is because of statements like this one from the Flat-6 site: "- Don't become caught up in anyone's ploy to dictate the engine oil thats best for your engine. Over time other oils have been developed that we have found to be more superior than what the mmanufacturer would have recommended when your car was new. We have a biased opinion on this topic, so please don't ask us for an oil recommendation! We have worked with Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil to develop an application specific offering of engine oil just for the M96 / M97 engine . Its called "DT40", so just buy it and know that it solved many problems in the development of it. Since 2006 we have worked to develop the best engine oil for our engines and until 2012 this wasn't offered to the general public. Each and EVERY Flat 6 Innovations engine is required to utilize this oil. The controversy related to other oil recommendations is something my company avoids completely. When you buy a new Porsche , they recommend Mobil 1 , but when you buy my engine I'll tell you to avoid that offering completely." Maybe he gets a kick-back from Joe Gibbs? He certainly has the same sort of customer relations attitude as The Donald, but I think he knows how to build an engine. I find some of this site's claims, and the inconvenience and high price of the work of Flat-6, are a bit hard to swallow but I don't think he'd recommend this oil so strongly if there wasn't some sort of good reason. All I can say is that I've seen no ill effects from using it. My car is in good enough shape to go to 200K miles, I think. I'm going to try. If it blows up? Well, I'll likely sell it to someone who wants a core for a race car or for a Flat 6 conversion. I think it's going to last quite a while longer. It runs as strong as ever...stronger than when I bought it with 16K miles in 2009. You decide for yourself. I use DT40 most of the time. :cheers:

I put Liqui Moly Synthoil Energy 0W-40 in 4k miles ago I dig it. I'm thinking of doing 5k changes but haven't decided.

I chose other because I use Gibbs DT-40. My engine was rebuilt by Jake Raby and he recommends it.

'07 Cayman 2.7 5 spd with 160k. 50 miles each way every day year-round in northern NY so my car reaches operating temperature with 45 minutes to spare. I hate to feed an Oil Thread but I think I have a few relevant things to contribute. The first is (and I know this won't make me popular) while using Mobil1 0-40 through the 30 something and 40k mark when I got my car, I found large amounts of white, waxy sludge under my fill cap and in the fill tube. This happened over several oil changes. I suspect it was due to the fill tube being so cold in Winter but it still bothered me. I switched to Castrol Edge 5-40 and never saw it again. Two- I change my oil at 9,000 miles and cut open my filters every time. My filters have gotten cleaner over time. Three- My engine consumes no oil between changes. Adder- per LN Engineering / IMS advice that I read early-on, I never operate below 3,000 rpm's. C.

Agree 5-40 is better for all but the very coldest temps. Don't agree that you need to avoid RPMs below 3,000 ALL the time. I try to stay above 2,000 and I avoid cold-walling the cylinders. That means giving it a lot of gas at low revs. That isn't good for any engine, except maybe diesels. Not sure about them. Anyway, poking along at steady-state in traffic, 2,000 is OK. Switch down a gear or two if you need to put power down or if the terrain is very hilly. Not sure where in NY you are. Some bits are quite flat, like in N. Illinois here, and some are extremely not flat. When I head for the hills or the track, the lower gears get a workout. Driving steady-state 55 mph on flat terrain, it's just wasting fuel to run above 3,000 all the time. If you push the gas and it feels wimpy, you should downshift, not push harder. I've heard this for motorcycle engines as well. Use the gears, ...but cruising is cruising. :cheers:

A lot of bearings have copper under the lead. The bearings may be getting thin.

My car is both my personal and track vehicle and for the first few years I had it I ran M1 0-40. But then a local builder suggested that if I use M1 it should be the 5-40 turbo diesel oil, which I've run during track seasons. Since neither my engine nor car are race-built, I've always thought of it as a street car, and assumed my engine would last forever. But I finally realized that, as I have been doing 7-9 D.E.s a season, running the crap out of it on R-compounds and, lately, slicks, it probably gets as much hard use as many club race cars. 2 builders, including Charles Navarro of RND Engines, told me they were surprised my engine hasn't blown already! So now I'm planning on using a more robust oil, probably one of the Gibbs products. But, for those of us here who are tracking their cars, be advised that Navarro does not recommend DT40 for race engines. And I think that would also go for engines that are run like race engines. I think I'm going to try XP-7.

Lead bearings? Really? The bearings I see are bronze. Is bronze copper plus lead?

So...this car of yours. Is the engine stock? Stock AOS ? You really ought to read Mr. Brown's description of his fateful track day experience. I think it's in the complaints section. Very typical. I'm surprised this hasn't happened to you. Sometimes it matters what track you drive on. R/A has a very long RH carrousel and a LH corner at the bottom of a long, downhill straight. Both extremely rough on the weaknesses that stock Cayman engines seem to have. I would say it's time to think about rebuilding that puppy and putting some safe-guards on it. If you blow it, usually it costs you a substantial core charge. I have no affiliation with engine builders. I have seen these cars blow up though. ...So sad! :beer

" Is the engine stock? Stock AOS?" Sorry, it is stock but not a Cayman. 997.1 3.8 X51. One reason I bought this car was that the X51 was less prone to blow than the Cayman 3.4. New stock AOS. Compression is still very good and oil analysis shows more aluminum than I'd like but nowhere near failure level. "You really ought to read Mr. Brown's description of his fateful track day experience." Where is it? I run Road Atlanta, Barber, Memphis, and St. Louis regularly; been to COTA, Mid-Ohio, Sebring, NOLA, Indy, Putnam, Hallett, Bowling Green. The purpose of my post was just to share that the top builders probably do not recommend DT40 for hard-pressed engines. FWIW I was able to order Gibbs oil from Autozone at list price, free store pickup, and got it the next day!