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YOUR RESEARCHTechy Question - Turbo Actuator
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Suggestion
i had to replace a turbo for this once many years ago ..
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Suggestion
You might have to remove the turbo to do it and that is worst case but you def won't need to replace the turbo only the actuator.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Car has gone for the inspection prior to sale - one of the turbo actuators is sticking and is proving 'stubborn' to release
Anyone out there with any experience of this?
Worst case scenario is that it will need a new turbo!
Could you not just change the actuator? Which are relatively common faults, the rods corrode and cause them to stick or seize.
I previously replaced mine with those below - I am not an expert but I do not see why a sticky actuator would mean a new turbo, unless in someway the actuator has caused damage to the turbo :dont know:
https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Twin_Turbo_Actuators_for_Porsche_996_and_GT2--product--59.html
They are a bit of sod to get off as they pick up all the crud but they should come off with a bit of persuasion. You might have to remove the turbo to do it and that is worst case but you def won't need to replace the turbo only the actuator.
The actuator is just an electric motor, if the arm and motor move then it's not the actual actuator that's your problem. You can check it very easily with a long screwdriver or might even be able to reach with a finger.
New rods are about £20 but they are different each side.
OPC are about the same price as Design911
It's not the rod that actually goes it's the ball joint and the little circlip that rot.
996 is a mechanical system for wastgate control .. 997 is the electric system .
Yup .. i had to replace a turbo for this once many years ago .. when they seize they really do seize ..
Heat is your friend here .. plenty of heat !
couple of picts i found ...
The actuator is the bit with the long thin metal shaft which goes through the end of the waste gate and attaches with bolts. These are easy to change/replace.
The actual waste gate is a flap inside the turbo and has an arm outside the turbo which the actuator connects to. They are notorious for seizing where they go through the body of the turbo - usually on the passenger side as this turbo is lower and comes into contact with more crud/salt than the offside one.
As Demort says, a blow torch/oxyacet torch and a 17mm spanner (which slides perfectly onto the arm), plus plenty of lubricant, are a good stop-gap measure.
Once they start to corrode inside the turbo body I'm afraid its only a matter of time before the turbo needs to come off and be sent for refurb.
I had it happen on my original turbos. Then it happened within a few months of putting my hybrids on - I had to send it back for replacement under warranty. Now I get under the car with some WD40 and the 17mm spanner after each day I've driven it to give it a wiggle to keep it free.
:thumb:
OPC dont send them for refurb .. they just replace if it doesn,t come appart
I know ... sigh .. not proud of every job i have done .. but im still honest
Are you saying don't refurb the turbo?
I've had the Cossie unit refurbished a few times over the years, always came back looking brand new for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
That is Plan A....
I just have my fingers crossed that it works - if the turbos need to be done then I will be in to a heap of cash to put it right....
I couldnt get the actuator off of one many years ago when i worked at an OPC .. i tryed everything including an awfull lot of heat .
At the time and i assume its still the case we didnt farm out things to be refurbed .... thats not the Porsche way .
Service advisor went and sold the customer a turbo when i said i couldn,t get it undone , OPC dont recomend things like refurb or at least they didnt , so the customer wasn,t exactly given any options .
I felt and still do that i failed .. hence im not proud of every job i have done .. i let the customer down on that one .
Im honest as i admit i cant do everthing .
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