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YOUR RESEARCH2001 996 Turbo No RMS or IMSB Issues?
Leading reported evidence
Use car
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'Use car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check every seal, every gasket, fitting' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
(You or a PPI should check every seal, every gasket, fitting, but be sure you check the selector shafts.
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Suggestion
(You or a PPI should check every seal, every gasket, fitting, but be sure you check the selector shafts.
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Suggestion
You want to experience the car/engine from a cold start, cold to warm idle, running around town until warmed up, then steady speed cruising and a few full throttle acceleration runs.
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Suggestion
These are cool running engines but you want to make sure the cooling system is working properly.
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Suggestion
You want to experience the car/engine from a cold start, cold to warm idle, running around town until warmed up, then steady speed cruising and a few full throttle acceleration runs.
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Suggestion
The engine must idle smooth, without drama, run around town like a 500K mile Yellow Cab, and tear *** down the highway until the test driver or you run out of road or courage.
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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OK, I think I will give up on the 7 owner CS4. I have another question.
Didnt I read here that the Turbo engine is completely different and immune to the RMS and IMSB issues? Please correct me if I am wrong. The 2001 Turbo has 50000 miles on it. Asking price seems reasonable.
The Turbo engine is a different engine than the NA engines.
It does not have a rep for seal leaks but any seal can leak. A good inspection of the car's underside after a test ride/drive will turn up any signs of leaks.
(You or a PPI should check every seal, every gasket, fitting, but be sure you check the selector shafts. It was from a selector shaft seal my Turbo's transmission was leaking.)
The Turbo engine does not have the same style/design IMS (aka layshaft) and bearing as the NA engine. The shaft is gear driven by the crank and runs in high pressure oil fed bearings.
The gear drive can generate a bit of extra noise but you should not hear anything scary in this area or any other area but of course you have to know what is scary and what is not scary.
The 6-speed can rattle a bit once warmed up but push down the clutch and the noise should go away and when you release the clutch be gone, until you say give it some throttle again.
There have been a few (very few) cases of the bolts holding the gear wheel or maybe the chain sprocket to the shaft coming loose.
There are high mileage examples of these cars in service. My 03 Turbo is closing in on 99K miles and will probably be at 100K before year end. There is another Turbo (S model I believe) that has gone over 350K miles with no internal engine work required.
Anyhow, these cars are not known for engine troubles, though there are exceptions.
You must strive to find/buy a good example. Well maintained, well cared for, "loved", and of course no matter what else in good condition.
No ungodly rattles, knocks, ticks, no scary or sick engine noises at all.
To much too cover but be sure you spend some time in the car as a passenger and as a driver. Total miles covered around 30 miles.
You want to experience the car/engine from a cold start, cold to warm idle, running around town until warmed up, then steady speed cruising and a few full throttle acceleration runs. The engine must idle smooth, without drama, run around town like a 500K mile Yellow Cab, and tear *** down the highway until the test driver or you run out of road or courage.
Mind the gage readings: oil pressure, boost, voltages, coolant temp. These are cool running engines but you want to make sure the cooling system is working properly.
Then you give the car a full used car check out.
Then you get the car in the air and a PPI underneath and let him find something to cause you to reject the car. It is after test ride/drive that leaks are looked for.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Mac,
Thank you very much. Is there anyplace that explains the differences in these two engines. I had no idea they were completely different internally just because its turbo charged. I assume the 2001 is a TT @415HP. The car is low mileage at about 50,000 miles.
I think 02-04 996 Turbos are the best value in the Porsche world!!! Given original cost, styling and what they can now be had for!!! An 05 Turbo S is even better - well if you can get rid of the ceramic brakes!!
Judging by all of your threads, I really don't think a Porsche is the car for you. It's pretty obvious you're the kind of person who will spend all their time worrying about some kind of impending doom rather than just enjoying the car as you should.
Anyplace I do not know.
One place you can learn some about the differences is from the book at this link:
Amazon
Amazon
"I assume the 2001 is a TT @415HP. The car is low mileage at about 50,000 miles."
I do not know of which specific 2001 911 you speak of, but let me make this point: All 996 Turbos have a turbo-charged engine, fitted with twin turbos at the factory and the car and the engine are quite well suited to this turbo-charging application.
But not all 996 engines that are turbo-charged are Turbo engines. Some owners have added an aftermarket turbo (or supercharger) to a NA (naturally aspirated) engine.
All the heat and stress of turbo-charging *without* the solid foundation the Turbo engine has to offer.
If you want a Turbo be sure you buy a Turbo. If you want a turbo-charged 996, well, they are out there or you can buy a stock one and add an aftermarket turbo charger via a kit.
Sincerely,
Macster.
