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YOUR RESEARCHCentral Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
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Check center console
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Central Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
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Leading evidence: 'Check center console' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check center console' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I pulled apart both doors and checked the microswitches, both seem to be fine...
Central Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
Disconnect /
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Central Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
Reconnect battery
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Central Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
Replace key remote and had it reprogrammed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I also replaced the key remote and had it reprogrammed.
Central Locking Problems, unlock and two honks - Suggestions?
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Battery was recently replaced.
When I lock the car using the key (not the remote), it unlocks a second later and honks twice.
The key fob does not lock the car anymore, either.
There is an aftermarket head unit, but the locks worked prior to changing the battery.
I have:
-Checked the center console
-Disconnected / Reconnected Battery
-Verified that both driver and passenger windows move down when pulling handle.
-Passenger window regulator recently replaced
I hear you can pull codes for sensors at a pcar dealership, I was hoping to get some suggestions here before dropping an hour of labor to pull codes.
Thanks
It's not the fuel door or something else not closed. Two honks indicates there is a malfunctioning component in the alarm system. More than likely it's one of the microswitches in the system. The write up on Renntech is good. You may also be able to narrow down which switch it is by checking functionality. If it's a door lock switch (which mine was), I was able to tell by the fact that when I drove the car the automatic locking of the doors didn't engage (red light on unlock button didn't illuminate). Then I checked each door and realized the passenger door was still unlocked while the driver side was locked. I replaced the locking mechanism and all was good.
~$200
I seem to recall there was a lot of variation in the price. Make sure you get the correct side!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...02-04%29%20%20
PS--If you do have to replace the door mechanism, order replacement mounting bolts as well. Mine stripped very easily during removal. I ended up using a bolt extractor to take them out and replaced them with new parts.
I think the Durametric system can read alarm codes so you can figure out where the problem is. Did you find one of the door locks not working properly? Which microswitches did you replace? I don't recall the total number, but aren't there 7 or so?
Code just states a central locking failure, doesn't tell me which switch.
According to the DIY on renntech, it says it's the door locking sensor:
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
I pulled apart both doors and checked the microswitches, both seem to be fine...
driving me nuts =/
what model and year so we can help look up correct info?
Just a thought before you go ripping the car apart (so to speak), but has the handbrake to be engaged for the locking system to remain locked? For instance, if I unlock my car and decide not to open the door, it locks itself up again after a while. There is a microswitch on my handbrake which may effect the system on your car. Another thing could be that the windows are not fully closed. Just a thought. Or would a low battery on your remote (if in possession) let the car unlock itself? Hell I don't know I am just shooting in the dark here.
Yes, windows are fully closed. Both windows function properly as well. I've used both internal and external door handles to make sure they move the 1/2" when opening.
The car is a 2001 996 turbo.
I also replaced the key remote and had it reprogrammed. The shop that did it told me the code was generic and they would have to dig deeper if I wanted to find out which switch it was specifically. (basically saying pay $ to get answer, lol).
I can look at the ebrake as well.
To my knowledge, my alarm module under the seat has never been in contact with water. The battery in the car is brand new, it was recently replaced. The stereo headunit is after market, but it was like that when I got it. I know there is a microswitch for radio theft, but not sure if that will relate.
The previous owner said he never had a problem, but he could be lying. Said everything worked fine, then he replaced the battery after the PPI, it has never worked for me.
So just to be clear, you had a shop read the code and they gave you a generic fault code? Although I haven't personally done this, my understanding is that if you use the Durametric or PST it will tell you the specific switch that is giving the error. That will save you a lot of time...I'd take it to a dealer or a shop with the proper code reader.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.