1990 964 C4 Melbourne

As a follow on from my intro thread, I thought I would document my progress with the 964 C4 here. 1990 C4 Manual Marine Blue exterior Linen with blue piping interior I bought the car with the following: Bilstein dampers, Eibach springs lowered to RS height Cup II wheels Cup mirrors Steve Wong strut brace G Pipe Braided brake lines Fab Speed Carbon Airbox with BMX filter RUF suede steering wheel The car has had extensive mechanic work done to it by the previous owner but still plenty to keep me occupied over the last month. Car as I received it (after I had re-installed the orange turn indicators from clear) First step was to get the car registered in Victoria and in my name. It required new front brake pads to pass roadworthy so in addition to genuine Porsche pads, I also had the mechanic (Auto Coupe in Eltham), replace the front discs with genuine parts and bleed the brake lines. Right from word go, the ABS and PDAS lights were appearing on the dash on every drive. Common issue with a C4. While my mechanic had the car, he diagnosed with the Hammer and the fault code was #43 Longitudinal acceleration sensor-implausible signal. These are two sensors located under the centre console. After removing and cleaning, the fault has gone and no more ABS and PDAS light (for the time being). Considered that a big win as it had the potential to be a costly and time consuming problem. Lastly my mechanic went through the car with a fine tooth comb and apart from giving it the all clear, prepared a list of small items which I can tackle myself. Thankfully the seller was happy for me to drive around on his QLD plates for the 2 weeks it took me to sort out Vic rego, but with RWC in hand, I was  now able to get this sorted. I decided to go for 1990 period correct plates rather than something related to the Porsche. I looked up the combinations from 1990 and selected a combination that fits. Pretty sure there was no slim line plates in 1990 but the colours match and I think they make the car look like it is on its original plates.

My driver’s side headlamp had a decent impact chip. The broken glass was rattling around inside the lamp and there was a small hole in the lens. I ordered a new genuine Bosch headlamp lens from Lampen Doktor  and insured both part numbers and ECE Approvals matched my broken lens. Without reading an internet “how to” first, I began pulling apart the headlamp. Not the greatest idea I have had because it was a lot more complicated to get to the lens than I had imagined, I had to pull apart the whole assembly. Got there in the end and the lens was replaced and reinstalled. I recommend changing the rubber seal around the glass lens if anyone attempts this. I’m going to have pull mine apart again and install a new seal because I ripped the old one trying to remove it from the broken lens. New lens on the left without the rubber seal which needed to be transplanted. Did a lighting alignment against the garage wall and job done. The other lens is looking a little yellow now against the new lens though...

Shortly after purchasing the car, the odometer stopped working. After some online searching, I found the following DIY which gave the probable cause and great repair instructions. http://p-car.com/diy/odometer/ The problem is the teeth on one of the small planet wheels get very soft from the VDO oil and break off. You can see my broken tooth here I ordered the part from a company in Sydney and once it arrived, began to pull apart the speedometer as per the instructions. Was not too difficult although it was very nerve racking. Should have taken more photos sorry. You can’t tamper with the mileage without going much deeper into the brains of the odometer than these instructions take you. I was going to wind the clock forward a couple of thousand so the reading would be accurate but I was unable to. Unfortunately the part the DIY said I would need was too small for my car (I needed a 20 tooth medium gear instead of the recommended 15 tooth small gear). The local supplier did not have this part and no other repair shops would sell me any parts. With the speedo in pieces on my desk at work, I bit the bullet and bought from the States. The $25 part then cost me another $36 USD to ship. The new gear fit and I was able to reassemble the speedo. Took it for a test drive before final installation and back to a working odometer.

On Saturday and after following Mike D-Silva’s lead, I hired a Rug Doctor from Bunnings (no Britex available) to give the Linen carpet shampoo. For less than $40, it was worth a shot given the $240 quote I was given from a detailer. The Rug Doctor even fits in the back with the seats down! I removed the front seats and was disappointed to only find $2.40 and a paperclip. Before shots

After about 4 hours, I was happy with the results and seats went back in. I'd say it was an 80% improvement. Rear seat carpet is still a little ratty so I might look at replacing these in the future.

Previous owner had installed a really nice Nakamichi head unit into the car. Looks very period correct and in addiiton, had all of the original speakers rebuilt. It was lacking bluetooth and because this is my daily driver, I set about looking for a unit. Ended up installing a Parrot MKi9000 and very happy with the results. I had the original Nakamichi installer wire up a loom for me. Parrot plugged into the small amp located in the passenger kick panel (next to OBD port), power taken from Nakamichi. Ran the microphone to the top of the driver's A-pillar. Phone call quality is great and the unit is all very hidden other than the microphone and the small wireless controller which is detachable. Audio streaming, AUX, iPhone jack, and USB. I have these stored behind the carpet near the passenger kick panel and just audio stream my music. I highly recommend this Parrot unit for those wanting to add some modern telecommunications to their car.

Ever since my first drive, the car was having idle and rev problms. It would often stall on cold start, hunt for revs for some time and when coming to a stop, the revs would drop VERY low to the point where I think it would stall. Made driving more of a challenge and often embarresing. After some more reading, I decided to give my ISV (Idle Stabilisation Valve) and air-flow meter a good clean as this often leads to poor... idle stabilisation I guess. I followed this DIY and it was a 2 hour job for me with very basic DIY skills. http://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989-1994-911/197997-how-to-clean-isv-and-air-flow-meter.html The air-flow didn't appear too dirty but after a good cleaning with WD-40, there was a lot of blank gunk that came off. The ISV was very dirty with a thick black substance. I just gave both a very good clean and dry with WD-40, re-installed and the car feels great again. This appears to have fixed my idle problems but time will tell. No dipping of the idle when coming to a stop and very strong idle at start up. The black gunk which came out of the ISV and air-flow meter Dirty ISV This side looked OK but was crystal clean when I was done with it Sorry I didn't take any after shots, will get better at photos as I do more write ups. That's it so far, been a busy month and I'm not sure how much my girlfriend is enjoying my new love (time waster), but I've been loving working on the car as much as time allows. Plenty more on the list and am waiting on a big Pelican Parts order. Still haven't detailed the exterior but that will be very soon. Will also be changing the Cup II wheels for some Cup I shortly and 90% sure I will remove the Carrera decal although I don't hate it.

Great stuff!

Hmmm...I should really clean my carpet...

Great stuff:) Will be following this, to slowly do my C4

I want your third pedal!

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Damnit … I only got a dollar out of mine. Oh, and a vacuum cleaner bag of dog hair. Still got it if anyone's looking for a bag of ultra-rare 1976 911 dog hair and carpet fluff? Buyer pays shipping.

Great work Poli! I'm enjoying reading about other members experiences with their cars and checking out all the photos.

Great work and nice write up Poli Idle problems can also be a result of having the RS flywheel - do you know whether the car has been re-chipped?

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Thanks Simon, it's enjoyable to document my learning and progress. Need to remember to take more photos along the way though. Thanks mate, that's an interesting point. As far as I know, no chip. I was thinking a Steve Wong to go with the G Pipe, I will look into something for the RS Flywheel and idle issues. Any recommendations? Second drive today from cold start at 5:30am this morning, still hunts for revs in start (is this normal for an air cooled though?), but very stable on the drive and the idle drop problem coming to a stop seems to have gone.

poli84, hunting at idle is a common problem, if you search the Pelican Parts forums there are tonnes of posts of fixes. This is probably the most comprehensive thread I've found, although I haven't had the opportunity to work through any of the solutions yet (got other problems to deal with!): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/250438-idle-bounce.html My 2.7 does it; DAF911's 3.2 does it; could be any one of a number of things as you'll see if you read that thread. It outlines the basic trouble-shooting plan of attack.

Steve wong could do a chip to suit g pipe and lightweight flywheel. As Simon points out there are a number of other things to troubleshoot too

yep wong chip solved my flywheel idle issues on my 3.6. if i had to do it again and had more money i'd simply get BPS or CNJ motorsport to do a custom tune rather than a generic chip.

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Thanks Simon, have begun reading through this thread, lots of information in there. Will add the trouble shooting items to the list, perhaps start with the ICV and O2 sensors. Cleaning the air-flow and ISV has made a BIG difference however. Except for a slight hunt at start up from cold, the revs are pretty stable driving. No longer have difficulty taking off and the car is not stalling anymore which has DRASTICALLY improved my driving experience. Until the clean, I was having a lot of difficulty taking off smoothly and was concerned that I had forgotten to drive a manual. I was interested in the Steve Wong chip before I realised I had idle problems. If it gives a little better performance and works well with the flywheel and G Pipe, then all the better. What were your idle issues with the RS Flywheel? Why would you go for the custom BPS or CNJ over the Steve Wong if the Wong helped?

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with the RS flywheel and ceramic plate clutch it could stall at low speeds especially on downshifts. i also have RS cams though. BPS does a comprehensive tune using a piggyback ECU, deletes the AFM from intake. CNJ also does a piggyback ECU with a tune. just much more comprehensive and precise tune, done on  my specific  car on a dyno, not as generic as the wong chip. back to back there is a marked improvement. wong chip is fine and works! just the BPS/CNJ solution is a next step up (both performance and dollars).

OUTER WINDOW SEAL (SCRAPER) REPLACEMENT Pelican Parts order arrived, included were a set of outer window seals (or scrapers). Mine had shrunk with age. You need to order left and right Left: 911-531-931-02-M136 Right: 11-531-932-02-M136 Replacement was very easy, the steel black strip just pops up with minimal force and allows you to slide out the rubber strip which is covered with felt on the inside. WD-40 into the rail to allow the rubber to slide in and pop the steel strip back in. 5 minute job. A lot of corrosion under the steel strip, and the under felt lining seems to be perished also. There is a shorter seal which runs under the small front window, this was badly rotten on the passenger side and I would suggest changing this also (will have to leave that for the next PP order). Driver before: Much better: Left was bad

Nice work Poli, looks like the regular things that need maintenance every now and then. Re the shrinking scraper rubber; I never liked the fact they kept shrinking even after installing a new set Keep up the good work.  If you want to tackle a job that your car will love you for, pull those door cards off and give the lock mechanism a good lube .  I expect your deteriorated felt window seal could be letting some water in so give it a good clean out while you're there.

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Thanks Peter, that's a great tip and will hopefully stop them from being so noisy. Next large project is to install new door stays so when the door cards are off, I'll lube up the lock mechanisms.

New Wheels Finally got around to picking up the Cup I's and dropping them off for refurbishment. They weren't in bad condition, but I wanted them looking factory fresh. A week later I picked them up and had them fitted to the car, replacing the current Cup II wheels which I was never a big fan of. Paired with the removal of the Carrera decal, the car looks totally different in my eyes and much closer to how the factory wanted it to look. Before doing the above, I took some decent (non iPhone) shots of the initial set up. Much better

That's more like it! What a transformation the wheels and deleted decal make - looks fantastic!

did you buy the center caps or did they come with the wheels?

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Thanks Hugh, I agree, hugh transformation. Caps came with the wheels thankfully.

car looks great! incidentally, what are the correct sizes for tyres for the cup 1's? What tyre brand did you go with? Mike.

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Thanks Mike. I kept the same tyres from the Cup II's, just swapped them over. From my reading, fronts should be 205/50/ZR17 and rear 255/40/ZR17. My fronts from the PO are 215/50/ZR17 and I am running Yokahama Advans which are OK but have incredibly loud road noise.

Mike, those are the sizes on my cup 1s. Looking to get michelin ps2 next..

Very nice. Cup 1's look solid and purposeful on the 964 and the decal delete give a clean look.

Aside from the improvements (which look great), the colour of your car is fantastic..

Some updates to the car: Idle Problems From purchase and collection, the car had some terrible idle issues: - easy to stall when taking off - kangaroo hopping in traffic - stall at first start every morning - rev drop when coming to a stop, often resulting in a stall - huge rev fluctuation at idle, etc, etc I tried cleaning the ISV and the AFM, didn't work so I changed to a new ISV and O2 sensor, didn't work. Finally booked the car in at Auto Coupe and I'm happy to say, that after 3 weeks, I now have a very strong idle and all the above symptoms have completely gone. They started with an AFM calibration which helped but wasn't the fix. Reconfigured the Idle Micro Switch after a past mechanic and molested it, again helped but not it. Checked for all air leaks, etc, good to know everything is tight. Plugged in another ECU and the idle improved so they sent the ECU and some changes were made to match the test ECU and the result is now an even better car to drive with a strong idle, starts first go every time, etc, etc. While it was in there, had a major service done including tappet adjustment, plugs, dizzie caps and rotors, all oils and fluids, etc, etc. Spoiler Grill Following Hepkat's great youtube DIY, I removed and re-painted my spoiler as it was looking rubbish: Haven't got a photo of the finished product but very happy with the result. I used a satin black 'Squirtz' after a solid degreaser and wash. I also painted the black grill on the frunk together with the corresponding screws as this was faded. No photo but looking great! Tail Light Tint I purchased a tail light tint from Gus on RL. Product is good, great colour. My skills let me down and tiny holes were evident from about 1.5m meter. Biggest problem is the tint completely block out the amber indicator (fine in the USA). Although I loved the deep red colour, I ripped it off the next day. My edges weren't great either

Glad you got it all sorted out.  I was at Auto Coupe yesterday picking up my brakes after Darren fitted new seals and pistons. They always have such incredible cars there.

I've been working on a new gear shifter. The knob is made from Corian and is similiar to the ones found on an IB car. It came with a 928 round adapter to fit the 964's flat shaft and I got some stainless steel tubing cut to size to cover the shaft. The problem how to cover the boot. Ideally, I would love to keep the OEM rubber boot exposed as per Singer but: 1. Their console is mounted much lower than OEM 964 resulting in a deep hole from console surface to tunnel where the rubber boot is mounted 2. They manufactured a beautiful plastic cup to fill this hole and after much discussion on RL and exploring of ideas, too hard to replicate through the means of 3D printing, plastic moulding, etc, etc So I came up with the below solution to cut down a leather boot... Not overly happy with the turn out, perhaps because the boot I used was a repalcement boot and not an OEM meaning the leather looked like garbage and it would not sit in place correctly. I love the shifter, looks great, feels great, shifts great, but need to get the gaiter and boot right. So... do I keep pursuing and get a better boot made or do I cut my losses, scrap project and keep OEM? Attempt 1, rubber gaitor covered: Attempt 2, leather boot trimmed to expose rubber gaitor: Clay and Wax Such beautiful weather last Sunday that I washed, clayed and waxed. Can't share too many photos of a 964 looking this good! No photoshopping or filters here, just good old Carnuaba Wax. I've just finished re-dying my centre console and handbrake cover as they were pretty badly scuffed up. Am about to deep clean the seats and once done, I'll hopefully post up some pics of great improvement. Next on the list is to install new door retention straps (doors opening too far without stopping points) and I've bought some control modules to make the windows 'one-touch', fingers crossed that install goes well but will report back with a write up.

I know a bloke with a spare shift boot for your next attempt...

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I hear he wants too much for it to recoup the purchase price of said spare boot.

In current air cooled terms "too much" is an illogical state of mind.

Neat!

Very interesting post - thanks poli84. I'm going to start on my interior later this year so will no doubt encounter the same dilemma re the shift boot. Please also keep us updated on the 'one touch' set up.

This bloke off R/L might be able to help;

The knob and sleeve (shaft), are not the problem. I love the Corian hand made knob and stainless sleeve I have. It's the boot that's the problem, a solution which that guy does not offer.

I haven't yet taken the console out of my 964 so I'm flying blind but do you think it might work to create a blanking plate that attaches to the console where the shifter comes through?  You could then cut a custom hole which then becomes the mounting point for a new rubber boot. The original rubber boot could still be in place with the new one fitting over it and creating the 'extension' you need. By doing this you would have a range of boots to choose from, including earlier 911 styles - you's simply cut the hole in the blanking plate to suit. The blanking plate could be aluminium or plastic and covered in whatever you prefer such as vinyl, leather, maybe even some linen leather to match the rest of the console.

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A blanking plate with an additional rubber boot is a very good idea and not one that I had considered before! I had thought of a blanking plate (cup) and the existing rubber boot and I had thought of a second rubber boot on top but never the two together. That could be the solution, thank you very much. I'll get thinking and sourcing.

Clay and Wax Such beautiful weather last Sunday that I washed, clayed and waxed. Can't share too many photos of a 964 looking this good! No photoshopping or filters here, just good old Carnuaba Wax. Have really enjoyed reading this post...your 964 looks fantastic!

I finally got around to cleaning the wheel arches this long weekend and also re-painted my brake calipers. I used the POR-15 kit and left the brakes on to do it. Before: Cleaned, taped and primed: Finished product: Pretty happy with the POR-15 kit, cost me $78 and easy to use. Finish is also pretty good. I'm sure it would have been better if I waited longer between coats but I am impatient person. Despite the cleaning, couldn't resist getting it dirty again and the weather was too good yesterday I went for a solo blast through through the usual SMT route.

BACK ON THE ROAD We had a little mis-hap just after Christmas while driving on the roads above (near Lake Mountain). Coming around a tight bend, an on-coming vehicle was a little close to the centre of the road, I got spooked and moved over too far, misjudging the shoulder of the road. Two wheels on the gravel and you can guess what happened. We made slight contact to the embankment on the wrong side of the road with the front left before spinning around and coming to a rest with the back square against said embankment. Unbelievably, the damage was very light and we were not only able to drive off, but also 1.5 hours back to Melbourne. So we promptly filed the claim with insurance and dropped the car around to Paint and Custom in Thornbury. All damage was cosmetic thankfully and P&C were incredibly thorough in replacing everything with OEM parts. Front and Rear bumpers including all supports, etc Primary Muffler plus exhaust tip LHS rear light and centre reflector Front mesh grills Front LHS indicator and reflector A/C condensor and Fan. etc, etc While we were there, I also got a cut and polish, bonnet dents knocked out and stone chips touched up, plus the fuel filler flap aligned and new sunroof seals. The only paint that went down was on the new plastic bumpers and the colour match with the 26 year paint elsewhere is perfect. The car looks absolutely brilliant now, picked it up Friday night and took it on a 500km weekend drive down the coast. P&C did a fantastic job, big thanks to KGB for the recommendation. The front LHS reflector is still coming so the broken one is installed in the shots below, heading back on Wednesday to collect.

Nice to know the car was repaired well.  I bet there were some other nice Porsche's at P&C.  They have a very good reputation, albeit quite pricey.

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There was a 997 GT3 but to be honest, didn't notice anything else as my car was outside waiting for me and I was pretty excited to be reunited. Pricey indeed. I got the list of all work done for the car's file and the final price was... let's just say I'm glad I wasn't picking up the bill!

Looking good the little bits of love are shining through, liking the little tips you take on your way from other sources , the results are obvious in the presentation of the car..enjoy

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Good as new

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If you want sumfink done proper... Glad she's back and you're happy Poli.

It would be a good time to get come clear film on that shiny front end.....................

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Indeed. No one likes being involved in an accident but the replaced bumpers were the worst panels on the car, poor alignment in the rear also. Very happy, thanks again KGB.

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Potentially, it is just the bumper that got the new paint. Bonnet is still original with the same amount of (touched up), stone chips. I had never thought about clear film but will look into it. Any recommendations?

http://www.invisiblecarbras.com.au/

Slight interior freshen up with a new set of genuine Porsche over matts. Ordered from Sean at Porsche Doncaster who is excellent and they arrived within the week. Not as plush as the originals they replace and the colour is not an exact match but they look great and have tidied up the interior nicely. I was going to go for some Coco Matts but at over $500 delivered thanks to our exchange rate and these being only $275, it was a no brainer to stay OEM. Next step is to have a passenger side cushion bolster and driver side seat squab bolster redone by Leather Creations in Cremorne.

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He's pretty good!

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Thanks mate, he was your tip! I was initially going to get the front two seats completely re-dyed to look like new but my current thought is to just get the two bad bolsters (mentioned above) done and then leave the rest of the seats with their natural wear. Leather Creations have said they will be able to match the new sections to the rest of the seats. They are pretty good apart from the two bolsters that need attention. Thoughts? I'm also going to re-do the blue piping myself, I have the correct paint and an artists brush, did a trial section and was very happy with how it came out.

Have you thoroughly cleaned the front seats with a leather cleaner and soft brush yet?

Sure have! They look great other than the two bolsters that need attention. Passenger seat right hand side squab bolster - discolouration Driver's seat back right bolster - general wear You can see both in the shot above (just) but they look good for 26 year old linen grey seats

Following on from thoughts above, I was unsure whether to just have the two bolsters resprayed or the entire front two seats. Discussed it over with Bill from Leather Creations and decided to get the whole lot done. Very happy with the outcome and the work that Leather Creations did. I then went home and re-painted my blue piping with the correct blue leather dye which i had already ordered from the UK. End result is brand new looking front seats but still with the creases and signs of a loved life. Having fresh Linen Grey seats really demonstrates how quickly a seat gets dirty. Before and afters to follow but the photos don't do it justice. Before: After: I've been wanting to fit a set of D90's for some time as I've really grown to love their look. The previous owner had sold the rears when I purchased the car so I had only the front pair. Tracked down a pair of rears for $150 each and was happy enough to run them, not in a perfect condition (signs of life but not abuse). Unfortunately when I went to pick them up last week I was surprised and disappointed to see that one wheel had been painted by a colour blind human, using their un-preferred hand and with a deodorant can. This forced a refurbishment of that one wheel. I couldn't have just one wheel looking good so I have decided to refurbish all four wheels and dropped them off this morning. I use a panel beater out in Mitcham, they did my Cups too and have done about 3 sets of wheels for me in the past. They are not concourse but they do the job to a standard I am happy with and for a good price. Hopefully will get the wheels back next week and I will mount them up ASAP. I'm going to hunt for a set of spacers also, 10mm front and 7mm rear with extended bolts, etc. Cup 1's will return in the spring, wrapped in a set of Michellin PS2s.

He goes o.k., that Bill bloke.

The seats look fantastic! I did my D90's in the same colour as GT3 rims.. didn't like them that much in the end.

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Thanks Mike. This is my motivator for the D90's, I think this looks absolutely AWESOME!

Kinda suits your color combo vibe really well.

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Thanks, I agree. Even tempted to switch back to the Flag Mirrors while the D90's are on but I think that swap is a pain in the ass so further investigation is required.

hey poli, love what you are doing.. i refurbed my d90s with a blackout on the inner horizontal surfaces.. looks great and hides the brake dust

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Thanks Hughsey! I remember your refurbished D90's very well after your EOI for sale thread. They look really good are very different to what you normally see.

Have you tried leatherique to remove the creases in the bolsters? works a treat

Check my unicorn thread for before and after shots on leather seats Don't know how it will work on redyed seats though. Cheers

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I haven't tried but I have been thinking about this a bit lately and wondering just how good the product is at getting out the creases. I will read over your thread again, might be worth a shot for sure.

D90's are back from refurbishment and I must say, they look fantastic. Can't wait to get these mounted up. Just dropped all four off at Donellans in Collingwood. Was going to just get tyres for the rears as the fronts still had plenty of tread but have decided on four new tyres. Firstly, running different tyres is not something I like doing but first and foremost, the front tyres were 10 years old and despite looking like they were still good to go, just not worth the risk to save $350. So four Bridgestone Potenza RE003's going on in OEM specifications. Will pick the wheels & tyres up tomorrow, take them home and mount to the car in time for a Saturday morning run in.

They're going to look mighty fine

Thanks @P-Kay , I agree. Can't wait to get them on!

Next - Coloured crest

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Agreed but have you seen the prices of a set of these? Around $200! My idea to have some cheap temporary fun with the D90's has turned into a rather expensive exercise with four wheels refurbished and now four new tyres! Plus, I just got the caps colour matched.

That's not a bad price, I must say. Cheaper options below: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Porsche-Genuine-Colour-Crested-Wheel-Centers-Centres-Caps-set-of-4-near-new-/172211907871?hash=item2818a12d1f:g:3aQAAOSws4JW7d1y Not sure if the below will fit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-PORSCHE-76mm-3in-Grey-Center-Wheel-Hub-Caps-Emblem-Badge-Cover-4-pieces-set-/131835241207?hash=item1eb1fe22f7:g:hB8AAOSwdj9XT7Fg You can't forget a set of these: http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/964-993-89-98-/Wheels-Hubcaps/Valve-Stem-Set-p16412.html James also has the above and you may want to try him for the caps if you want spanking new...

OK, that first set you posted is cheaper than I had thought... you're making me spend more money. I'll see how it looks with the silver crests but I might need to make this happen.

Happy to help empty a fellow enthusiasts wallet

Poli, who did your wheel refurb?

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I take them out to a place in MItcham called Thornton Smash Repairs. I've had 4 sets of wheels done by them over the years. They're just a panel beater but they do them for $60 cash a wheel. As I said above, it's not a concourse job but they fix any kerb rash you might have give them a good paint. I've had the odd paint run in the past or some overspray but for $60 a wheel, I've never complained or have they been bas enough for me not to be happy. Really happy with the job they have done recently though, best lot to date. If you use them, strip the tyres, valve stems and wheel weights. Oh and they don't do the inside of the wheel unless you ask (might be more for that).

OK I fitted the D90's on Friday afternoon. Mixed feelings at the moment but they are growing on me. The rears especially need a spacer so researching the best path for this as I feel it looks awkward at the moment being lowered and such a high offset (wheels are sitting too far in the guard). But took the car and its brand new Bridgestone RE003s for a drive to mount Donna Buang on Saturday morning (great bit of road that, never driven it before) and it was excellent even in the damp conditions. Was greeted wth snowfall at the top of the mountain which was pretty cool! Tyres are ace, very grippy in the wet.

D90's on a 964? Perfect!

They are perfect.  Get some spacers on there and they'll be even more perfectererrer.

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Shhh.. Don't tell anyone about the driving around here!!! I saw you in town on Saturday (we've got a place down here) - the car looked great

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Thanks Peter, once they are set up correctly I think I will agree. The Cup I's are hard to beat but this could be close for me. I do love that you don't see many 964s running D90's anymore. Thanks Tit, finding the right spacers without changing to longer lugs is proving difficult but I am hoping the H&R DRM 15mm bolt on spacers will be correct and available. I've got a few more visual changes in the head so hopefully it all comes together soon enough! Thanks very much mate, was this in Warburton? Driving aside, I absolutely love that part of the word. It was a very special sight on Saturday morning. Thick tree coverage, green hills, heavy fog and the rain made for a pretty impressive visual and emotive sight. The meat pies at the Warburton bakery are also one of my favourites and I like to think of myself as a bit of a connoisseur haha

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Yeah we've got a place in Warburton, its a great spot- Little Joe do a great bite as well. We mainly spend time down here cycling or taking the cars for a run.

If the RE003's are anything like the RE001's and RE002's i had, then they'll be amazing bang for buck and probably a really impressive improvement over the 002's. For tyres which are just for street, it's almost like some employee secretly wants them for track at Bridgestone.

This month Bridgestone Select outlets are offering $100 off on a set of 4 so I bought a set of RE003's for my c3.2 for $554.  Good and cheap to boot!  also good range of widths available for 16" rims

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That's a great price for a set of tyres.

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That's what got me over the line with RE003s. Donnelans in Collingwood was doing the $100 off so got 205/55/16 and 225/50/60 fitted and balanced for $570. Was very happy with that and am very happy with the tyres. Agreed about the levels of grip although I haven't explored any more than the above and in pretty horrible conditions. Looking forward to becoming more acquainted with them. If they continue to impress, I may end up going with these for my 17" cups too instead of the Michelin PS2s i am currently planning.

Those Aeros gotta go if the D90s gonna stay.

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It's a job on the list, have the flag's wrapped up nicely and ready to be installed, just need the time to get the job done.

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It cost me $1200 to put PS2's on my 17" Cup II's last year.  I'm really impressed with PS2's but if the RE003's turn out just as good for about half the price I won't complain!

That is very cheap for a set of PS2...

Mike: http://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyres

what size did you run on the front?

Standard 205's Just how I like it!

[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/gerardpolidano/IMG_6376201_zpsxuuzawxy.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/gerardpolidano/IMG_6368201_zpsfwi2ph1z.jpg

Quotes source post: 245456

That's not good to hear. How long after did the squeals begin? And by Textar, did you buy the Porsche branded Textar, or Textar branded (probably makes no difference). I had bad squealing at the front previously, but sort of went away finally with some CRC Disc Brake Quiet (maybe give that a go?). My mechanic installed them and I can't make out what brand they were now. I also left off the spider dampeners as they were toast, if I get squealing with the new brakes, I will order a set.

Hmm, i might have to give that CRC quiet a go. Mine fronts have a bit of squeal. Nothing too bad just at every traffic light.

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Sounds familiar

Don't know why but it really bothers me!

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Yah. I'll give that a go. My dampeners were serviceable. I certainly gave the backs and sides some brake grease, but apparently to no success.

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Edit - $30 a can! Rrrriiiiipppp...

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No can, it’s a paste. 118ml red paste in a squeezable bottle. $19.99 from autobarn. I’ve just put 500kms on the new brakes and not a single squeal, very happy and relieved with the set up. Great braking feel, didn’t think I would get such a difference with OEM pads, excellent initial bite and feedback.

My commitment to the D90's went up a slight notch after managing to find someone selling a pair of 16x7's (fronts from a 944 S2, standard 964 is 16x6). I've been on the look out for a set of these for some time, I like the design of the D90 but never liked how flat the front wheels were. The 16x7s have slightly more depth to the wheel which look better and still retain the OEM tyre fitment. Took them to my usual panel beater for referb and had them fitted on Friday. Still have 7mm spacer, they don't fill out the front guards any more than the 16x6 due to the slightly higher offset but they are a better looking wheel and I am happy with the result.

Perfect

Nice change mate. Subtle but just better.

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Thanks guys, it is very much a subtle change, I'd be lying if I said it has made a big difference but it's certainly an improvement. You know when you get something in your head and you just have to execute that plan? This was one of those things, the flat 16x6 D90 really bugged me. Really love the D90's though and how my 964 is looking, I'd like the front to come down just a fraction but the car handles so well as it is, I'm afraid it may induce more bump steer.

My engine is out at the moment getting a little pampering so took the opportunity to give the engine bay and rear suspension a thorough cleaning. Was fun crawling around in that space. Before: After: And a little a gag present for the car just before it was admitted

Mr Sheen? Not that there's anything wrong with that!

...a little 3.8 pampering???

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Nah, just some degreaser, a high pressure hose and a lot of old rags. I wish...  nothing like that unfortunately.

I saw your car there @poli84 neato in the rear to match the top! Always nice having a spring clean

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The spring clean is a good psychological boost, even though I know it will be filthy again the minute I get it back and head for them hills! Will be nice for a short time though

Happy to have the 964 back, always hard to be apart. For a little while, I had been having difficulties with my clutch. Stationary at the lights with the clutch fully depressed, the car would still pull forward as the clutch was not disengaging, had to force the shifter from first into neutral and I had a really heavy pedal.  It was due for a major service so the decision was made to drop the engine, replace the clutch, do the major and then give the engine a little cosmetic freshen up while we were in there. I didn't want to split the motor as the oil leaks were not bad so we addressed most things that were practical and reasonable while the engine was out like replacing the lower weeping magnesium valve coves with the upgraded aluminium ones, and the chain cover gaskets, etc. My DMF was also toast so this was replaced, I stuck with the DMF instead of upgrading to RS SMF. The clutch master cylinder was leaking so we changed that out to a MPL Tuning one. The MPL unit is meant to reduce the required pedal force by 30%, it is certainly a lot lighter than it was and happy with it thus far. I thought the clutch roll pin may have snapped as this is a common occurrence with the clutch symptoms I was experiencing, but this turned out to be fine. The engine and engine bay now matches the rest of the car which is a really well kept, clean and detailed driver's car without being too precious about it all. The engine tin wear was blasted and powder coated in matt black and the cooling fan and upper mag valve covers were re-done to a factory finish. The nickel plating was re-done on everything that was removable. Any ideas on treating the fan shroud strap which can't be removed? Blasted and painted valve covers: The cat and heat shield were blasted to remove all of the surface corrosion Now back to the driving!

Very neat. Love it.

Nice work Gerard. Bet you are happy with the outcome (if not the bill $$)

Quotes source post: 262776

? ? should have driven it up to you Mike, left it with you for a couple of months and joined you on the weekends for some spanner time!