Engine Drop, TTP, Accusump, VOS

i've reached critical mass with the aquisition of engine oiling related "improvement" parts for my Gen 1 Cayman S . Time to install the parts. The first step is to determine if my scissor lift is up the challenge of handling a Cayman engine drop. I did 911 and 993 drops with no issues, but the mid engine location in the 987 poses more of a concern, since the lifting section covers much of the bottom of the car. So I put the car on the lift - as far back as I could to provide clearance. In order to remove the undertray, and install the Accusump (3 qt) in the center tunnel I had to put the car on my alignment stands and lower the lift. I removed the rear undertray and took a look at the clearance of the front of the engine. Question, when removing the engine is the movement a combination of down and back? If so, I might just squeak by...

The work to be done in this round is: 3 Qt Accusump, installed in tunnel TTP Pump with Pickup in Valve Cover X51 Windage Insert (it isn't a tray, so what else should I call it?) The "Big VOS" that requires all the painful SAI pump work (Thanks BillC) Spark Plugs (61K on the clock) BBI Underdrive Pulley (Thanks again BillC) Power Steering Cooler, Air Scoop and Line Insulation Larger Engine Mounted Oil Cooler IPD Competition Plenum/TB GT3 Master Cylinder Stainless Brake Lines (one more shout out to BillC) New Rotors & Track Pads with Motul 600 fluid Track Wheels/Tires and Spacers Track Oriented Alignment (with stock parts as of now, but you never know what shows up in the classifieds...)

If you accomplish all of this in your garage on that little lift . . . you are my hero! Please take some icsplz:

Who is Bill C, what shop...?

Forum member

You may have already looked at this, but did you look at getting the bigger VOS berty had on his early 987 that requires no mods? Or as you are doing everything else have you looked at just getting Softronics software to delete the pump? Weight saving and all.....

While the garage is small, I have rebuilt engines there and done a fair number of engine R&R operations. It is a lot slower than having a nice, open, well lit space - but a bathroom remodel (now in progress) took away my planned garage update this summer. I used to have a better garage, but then I got married and moved...

I have a BBI pulley and I'm using the stock belt. This is what BBI recommends too.

Tonight's progress was modest, I just got the trunks open and "safed" with some foam in the latches, battery disconnected and undertrays removed. Had a bit less time since I had to go pickup a used fixed back Sabelt seat for the passenger side With Without Soon to be home to the Accusump...

Didn't see your garage before in your pics, and wish I hadn't as I am a wee bit jealous. Looks like you've got everything you need. The single seater must be cool to work on! :cheers:

Well (sob) that was my FORMER garage. And yes, it would be the perfect space to do this work. But now I am working from your average two car attached garage and the space management is much more challenging...

CB, Sent you a PM..... Hoping you can help me out!

I made some more progress today, spent about 2.5 hours getting the engine drop closer to "drop." One challenge was draining the coolant with the lift underneath. I chose to sit the car on my alignment stands and put some pans under the hoses as I disconnected them and drained the fluids. Results were not too bad, I got most of it in the containers, but neglected to keep an eye out once I lifted the car up again - and got caught out with "extra" coolant that drained as the car's attitude changed. Just an excuse to hose out the garage I guess :hilarious: I'm close to done with the underside prep, only the halfshafts, ground strap and fuel lines remain. Up top I still have more work to do, including the removal of the cargo carpet to get at the DME /ECU and wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips on removing the carpeting? I decided to break out the "Truck Lift" attachment for my Mohawk lift - it allows for a higher lift for vehicles with a lot of ground clearance, and I thought it would help in keeping the upper lift frame away from the motor as I remove it down and out. We shall see, but it looks promising. Access to remove the belt, and the AC compressor in an bit More prep remains here - I chose to do the underside first while on the stands Still a lot in the way Messy. This is why I stayed Air-Cooled for so long... Stuff no longer on the car today... Now there is a lot less in the way It did not take that many tools to get this far. The clamp pliers are a recent purchase and they work very well on the "screwless" clamps used on all the H2O hoses. The "truck adapter" allows for vertical clearance from the car and the lift, and is adjustable for lifting points that are not on the same horizontal plane.

CB, Any way could you snap that pic for me this weekend?? My original thread shows the exact area we are looking for..... http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxs...n-boxster-modifications/60280-help-need-dimension-cayman-boxster-s-gearbox.html As I mentioned, if you have any questions, give us a call on the # I pm'd you Thanks!

Pics posted to your original thread.

Engine is out! However, it is a MAJOR PITA with a scissors lift. So much so that I am dreading the reinstall. I had to remove much of the rear suspension (time for LCA already!) and baby the process by moving the car and hydraulic table up and down respectively to get the baby out.

A little more detail on the drop. Things were looking great today until I got the engine released from the body, only to find that several of the factory manual guidelines could not not be followed or were incomplete. For future reference: Step: 10-5 - remove the connector from the engine compartment exhaust fan as well. 10 - 20 - remove the hose from the engine also 10-34 - The p-car dealer in k-man-s 's engine drop removed the entire half shaft (axle) and I found out why later (clearance). Do it! 10 - 57 - despite removing the torx bolts for the AC compressor, I ended up draining the system to atmosphere and leaving the compressor in place on the motor (it would NOT budge after removing mounting bolts) EDIT: I found the third bolt under the intake manifold after removing the motor. Duh! No where in the factory instructions does it mention removing the oil fill hose from the luggage compartment - you need too!!

Time for an update. I've got the TTP installed (did that today) and most of the VOS complete (just a spacer away from putting the pump back on). Also on stage 2 of 3 in painting the intake manifold. Also did the spark plugs Many pics here: Picasa Web Albums - Chris Brown - 987 Tech A few samples: Machining cam cover Clean head ready to receive cover Nurse, torque wrench! Sewn back up Next procedure occuring here...

Today we had a family function, so an early rise was in order to get something done! I installed a larger on engine oil cooler, as pioneered by Rob VN here: 376726111 Engine Oil Cooler - Articles I also finished the VOS install, which I have to credit Bill C with providing a tremendous help with the pump modifications here: Installing the stock Air Pump with the "Motorsports" VOS - Articles Modified Bracket Modified Pump Installed. This thing is big! Impossibly tight fit. Will be adding an upper bracket once the intake is put back on. Next up - re-installing the intake manifolds and associated hosing.

before you call the ttp install complete, consider insulating the ttp oil line w/ a length of thermo-tec thermosleeve. It's maybe $20 for a few feet. I did it because that line runs just above the headers. update - if you're underwhelmed w/ undoing some of your work to slip the sleeve over the oil line, iirc thermotec has a sleev w/ some velcro-like closure for installation w/o freeing one end up. it seems like really good stuff for the money. mmmv, -PM.

keep up the good work!

How's this? - I had planned to add the insulation before plugging the motor back in, but your post shamed me into it right away. And no worries about undoing work, with the engine out everything is pretty easy.

Today I got a few hours in, which allowed for the install of the bbi under-drive pulley. I used a shorter belt, the Gates K060820 which fit perfectly. I also took delivery of a box from Belgium via FedEx...

Irene had her time, and I finally got my Suncoast shipment with the intake gaskets Which is new? Clean and ready Now, we can install! Larger Oil cooler and IPD fit just fine together Something a little different for the Cobalt Blue Car...

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Took a few hours today to rehang the motor/trans in the car. Was not too tough and I did not remove the front motor mount. The first step was removing the driveshafts, which I really should have done during the drop. They came out very easily, other than requiring a large air wrench to loosen the retaining nut. Here is the empty backend... And the engine ready to go back Clearance with the table all the way down and the car as high as possible (with garage door open) was tight but passable Since I did this solo, I enlisted the help of Mr. Bungee and Strap to keep the control arms free of the engine Looking good! And where did the engine go? There we go - just a matter of connections at this point I did connect the engine oil fill hose during the install and guided the electric harness through the firewall, but nothing else is mated yet. Took 2 hours for this part of the procedure working solo.

This article is excellent. Wish people were posting more DIYs these days. Thanks!

now you just need a turbo strapped to it! great pics!

This is impressive work and great pics, thank you.

Fantastic thread!! subscribed

I got a few hours today to install the oiling mods that could not be done with the engine and trans together on the table. Pulled the "oil pan" and installed 996 defoamers: Closed it up with an X51 Oil Windage assembly. Used Loctite 5900 to seal the pan/cover to the case. The X51 part required a small modification to fit: There we are, almost ready for fresh oil fill. In preparation for the Accusump, I installed an LN Engineering Oil Filter Adapter and Canton Sandwich Plate. For now, I am going to use the "larger" filter size since I have stock ride height PASM car. This is what goes into the "extra parts I might need someday" pile.

Looks good! Any chance you could send out the part #s for the defaomers/swirl pots? I have the main part number but looks for the o-ring and hex bolts needed to install it. Cheers.

You will be happy to know that the o-rings are included on the part, and there is no need to replace the torx bolts - the existing will work fine.

Nice. Did you lower the pick-up lines or anything in addition to the swirl pots?

No, the X51 is just a different baffle, the pan is the same. So the pickup is already in the right spot.

CBRacerX, Do you have the part numbers for the LN Engineering Oil Filter Adapter and Canton Sandwich Plate for the Cayman S? I think I have all the part numbers for the complete Accusump system except those two. Thanks