Hello all
I am in the process of removing stock Cat-back exhaust so I can install an after market one
Foolishly, I thought it sounds simple enough for a DIY
I was wrong
For the life of me, I cannot get to one of the 1/2 inch bolts (both driver and passenger side) that secure the exhaust pipe to the first Cats.
Does anyone have a trick, tool or suggestion ?
I am hoping someone out there knows how to get to those bolts and via what tool. None of the tools in my tool box seem to work
Thank you in advance
Heat bolts and punch out. Buy SS bolts and Loctite for all new bolts and enjoy! Jeff
I believe there's already lots of DIY stuff on this. Did you remove the wheels and the plastic fender liners? That gives you access from a different angle. I recall it took a good assortment of extensions, u-joints and box wrenches. Since I assume you got the other 4 nuts off, that you've already drenched them with a penetrating oil. Maybe run the engine to heat them up.
Take off the rear wheels, and the kidney size/shape cover (3 fasteners ea.).
These bolts are 13mm not 1/2", if you're having issues getting a socket onto the nuts. I like 6pt sockets.
The inner nut of each side can be a pig. I used a couple of 8" extensions and maybe a wobble [U-] socket joint - straight in from the rear, from distance for all of them.
A 13mm u-joint socket is handy too.
The 'bolt' is a stud pressed into the header flange. Nothing to put a wrench on.
Lots of pb blaster. Wait, then more pb blaster.
If you break a stud you'll have to press or drill them out towards the front of the car. I have 1 stud remaining on each header. Had to switch to stainless 8mm bolts. Breaking a stud is only terrible until you get the damned thing out.
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I've removed the exhaust on two 987 cars now and both times the majority of the studs on the exhaust flanges sheared off.
I had to heat up the studs with a torch and punch them out. That stud closest to the engine on each side of the car is hard to get a socket on and also hard to squarely drive a punch against.
On one car I couldn't drive the stud closest to the engine out and I had to remove the header from the engine to punch out the stud at my workbench.
It is surprisingly easy to remove and reinstall the header but the O2 sensor needs to be removed first.
If you remove the header be very careful when reinstalling that you don't overtorque the bolts going into the aluminum block. 19 Ft/Lb if I recall correctly.
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I just did this job on my car last weekend (for the third time)
As others mentioned, you're not removing a bolt (it's a pressed stud). You will be removing the nuts that are on the side of the flange that faces the rear of the car. I can remove all 6 nuts with a 13mm socket and a wobble extension (it's a 10 inch long extension if I remember correctly).
It's very very easy to break the studs. I broke 2 the first time I did it and needed to heat them with a torch and knock them out with a punch and sledge hammer. Don't just put the wrench on there and try to torque it off. Spray PB blaster or some other penetrating oil and let it soak. One thing I read was that someone was able to get the nuts off with an impact driver without breaking any studs. So what I did was to get the wrench and socket seated on the nut, and carefully tap the end of the wrench with a hammer (in the direction of rotation) to break the nut loose. After using this method, I haven't broken a stud since.
Also, it's a good idea to put some high temp (copper) anti seize on the threads when you're putting it back together so it's easier for next time.
