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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFML, these DIY projects are killing mE!
Reported or suspected cause
screw is stripped and i cannot get
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Reported cause · Original poster
My problem is the screw is stripped and I cannot get to the ring.
Leading evidence: 'screw is stripped and i cannot get' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'screw is stripped and i cannot get' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean rads' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
As for the horn, I disconnected the front horn, and put the fuse back in. A quick honk showed that it worked.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Replace coupe 10x of the steering wheels
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Ive replaced a coupe 10x of the steering wheels on the 986 and 996..
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I ordered both, but upon replacing the front-most horn (the easiest to reach), and reinserting the fuse, it worked!
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Replace fuse
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Suggestion · Original poster
After that, I attempted to replace the fuse, but even before that, I noticed the car would not open with the remote, so I had to manually unlock the car with the key.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
Anyway, it worked fine before the bumper was put back on.
I've been a 996 owner now for a little over two months, and so far my DIY jobs have been anything but easy. Actually, I replaced the gas front and rear hood struts which was a pleasant experience. Everything else has sucked. I'm venting a little, but I do need some help.
I bought the car with an inoperable horn. The fix seemed easy enough, so I ordered the air bag retaining ring as that is what I had diagnosed the problem as being. Long story short, but one of the two screws that hold the air bag cover in place was stripped, so the project hit a dead end. The fuse was blown, and every time I put a new one in and pressed the horn, the fuse would blow.
Finally, I decided to simply try replacing the horns. Again, an easy enough project, and I wanted to clean the rads anyway.
Got the bumper off and cleaned the rads. Also, I got to work on the horns. I ordered both, but upon replacing the front-most horn (the easiest to reach), and reinserting the fuse, it worked! So I put the car back together, and never installed the horn that was located in the more rear position.
Upon putting the bumper back on, my PO's ****ty LED fixtures both had broken clips, so the light could not stay in place. This is not a daily driver, so I parked it as I hunted solutions. Its been over a week since I've driven the car, and it is a near perfect day here in NorCal so I decided to take the car for a spin. I used a small piece of electrical tape to hold the light fixtures in place. After that, I attempted to replace the fuse, but even before that, I noticed the car would not open with the remote, so I had to manually unlock the car with the key. No big deal, again, parked for over a week and I think this is normal behavior.
So then I go to put the fuse back in and every time I do, the horn blows. Not just a beep, but a full blow as long as the connection is made. WTF?!?!?! Screw it, I'm going for a drive.
So I get in the car, and now the left hand signal flashes fast. I can't see anything burned out. Hazard flashers work as expected. In fact, all lights work as expected, just a fast blink on left turn.
Man, this thing is killing me. Are these issues related? Or is the horn still bad and now I have a blinker problem.
Not sure if it has to do with the time since run, but the clock was also wrong upon starting it up as well.
OK, enough venting. Where do I start?
Thanks!
BEER!
I haven't an effing clue where you should start. I am more than puzzeled when it comes to the electrics on a car. When POs change or add or mess with the electrics they sometimes make mistakes and then the next owner has to suffer the consequences of their **** brain ideas. It's ok POs modding a car if they know what they are doing but obviously this brainless plebian didn't have a clue. Now unfortunately you are left to clean up the **** he has dropped in your lap. My advice is take it to a top class auto electrics guy and explain that you are completly baffled and ask him can he sort the problems out for you. Or just maybe some real reliable guy on here can really help you to sort this mess out. I honestly hope so. There are some good guys on this forum and i am sure that they will do their best to help you. Good luck my freind. I feel for you. (My advice again is:- if its got a whale tail and has been slammed down to the ground then run away)..coz it didn't stop there.
No idea where to start. I had a '99 Cab for 7 years, still have a '99 Boxster, and fortunately both were/are in good enough shape that I've had to do very little in the way of repairs, just maintenance. I've had a bunch of German cars and bikes and they certainly have their own way of doing things making working on them not very intuitive. I see you've had an MG. I've had several, Minis and Jags too. They are pleasant to wrench on.
Anyway, you'll get there!
When you say LED fixtures are you talking about the side marker lights? If so order some stock clear ones from Pelican and get those replaced. They could be causing your blinker problems. As for the horn, I have no clue. Maybe you jammed it in the honk position when you were messing with the retaining ring.
Thanks for the feedback/support.
Yes, I'm assuming that the horn and lights are not related. Or maybe only related in that they both happened while the bumper was off. Anyway, I'll take another crack at it. The horn worked fine, while I was working on it. I think I pulled the fuse while working on it just in case it went off and I was 18 inches from it. I hardly have any hair, I ought to try to keep my hearing. Anyway, it worked fine before the bumper was put back on.
Yes, I'll order new side lamps. Again, I fear what lies in that seemingly simple project. How were the wire modified, etc, to work with the LED side markers? Anyway, glad to take it for a ride today and again for dinner this evening.
I do love the car. Just seems each DIY has been a rathole of one thing leading to another, making projects take longer and be more expensive than they should.
Were the wires from the car to led cut and directly spliced to the led? Horn and fuse problem probably due to the ring. If the fuse is popping every time you put it in then something is grounding and setting off the fuse. The horn retainer piece probably messed up the original horn in the first place. Pm maybe we can hook up and figure this out. I'm no mechanic but have been around car electronics and pcar radios and stuff without problems. Ive replaced a coupe 10x of the steering wheels on the 986 and 996..
Thanks, pcar.
In some other threads I outlined my frustration with the ring replacement, as one of the screws was stripped. I think. I stopped trying for fear of doing damage. Anyway, the horns seemed to do the trick. With the bumper off before reassembly, everything worked (horn related) as it should.
Yes, I think the LED lights were spliced. Is that going to be a problem?
I may take you up on the very generous offer to meet up.
OK, good news bad news. I took the bumper off again to fiddle with the cables and see what's what.
On the good side, it appears that the lights are not spliced. See attached photo.
As for the horn, I disconnected the front horn, and put the fuse back in. A quick honk showed that it worked. And the fuse didn't blow. However, the air bag ring feels like the likely culprit. Once I wired everything back up and played some more with the horn, it seems that a tap of the horn could engage it in the "on" position, meaning the horn is blaring. No manner of tapping the horn/steering wheel again could turn it off, so I had to turn the car off. Turning the car back on, the horn is off, but pressing the horn engages it on again. Arrgghh... Thought I had this one licked. So I ordered a ring, then returned it to Pelican. Looks like I need it back again.
I've fiddled with the side markers as well, but the left still flashes fast. I'll wiggle the front bulbs around to see if that remedies it. Otherwise, I'm ordering side markers as well.
I guess I'm going to have to take this to an indy. Spoke with Kevin at Valhalla in Lafayette and he seemed super nice and helpful. However, he was concerned that the screw holding the air bag may be stripped, as he has never encountered that.
Thats a total crap job. I doubt the screw is stripped as well. If you want to wait till weekend maybe we can have a go at it and save you a few hundred bucks for the repair...
For the fast blinkers is the front left bulb actually lighting up? Had that problem with my '02 ... if the bulb is not lighting the fast blink is due to less resistance to the relay due to bad bulb or as in my case bad socket bulb holder. I had to remove the headlight assembly and slightly bend the metal spring out that makes contact to the bulb holder within the headlight assembly. If not that it could be bad relay ( but (normally you would ger no flashing in that case) or other electrical short that could be related to you horn problems ...
Quick update...I removed the headlight assembly and just checked everything. Upon putting it back in, the fast blink has stopped and normal operation has returned.
Just the horn remains disabled now.
Pcar, I'll pm you.
I have the same issue with the horn not working - although I haven't replaced my horns yet. I did just replace my steering wheel and was hoping that would fix it (as it would have a good airbag horn mount) but no such luck. Now I have to go searching. What does the airbag ring do, and could this be the culprit? I don't get sound from either horn, so maybe the horns are broken, I dunno! There has been some front-end repair on my car, so I will have to pull the bumper I guess.
Pulling the bumper and replacing the horns is a pretty easy job, and the horns are cheap. In my case, I replaced one horn and replaced the fuse (did you check that?) and everything worked, except the horn would get stuck "on". Its a classic ring issue. My problem is the screw is stripped and I cannot get to the ring. Its a Sunday drive and has been low priority, but I need to get it done; thanks for the reminder.
You'll need to pull that steering wheel off.
there are some tools that will allow you to deal with the stripped bolt.
If I remember correctly it is a hex head - a punch style hex tool is what we used
but it was a royal PITA.
mike
The tools that allow one to work with a stripped bolt are greatly diminished by the position of the bolt. I'll see if I can't hook up with some other forumites soon and get it solved.
Yes, the car didn't have a fuse when I purchased it, but I've put one in and still nothing... I figured it was just the airbag bracket (it was bad but apparently not the whole issue). I hadn't heard about the ring before, so now I guess I have to buy a *different* $100 part!
Best of luck trying to get your wheel off. My bolts were stripped slightly, and I couldn't get them to spin for about 20 minutes... then I finally got a T-bar handle (size 30) that if I worked as hard as I could to pull it into the steering wheel, and slowly added pressure to turn it, I got mine to break loose without slipping. I tried to make sure the head was seated perfectly then I tried to add as much force as possible to keep it in the grooves. I was getting frustrated and finally got one. I hope you can find a way to get yours out!
Rusty, thats a good idea. Being able to get max pressure will be key. When you say t-bar handle size 30, can you be more specific, or share a link for what you used. Or come on down. I'm not that far from Oregon...
Thanks, PG. I'll poke around. Again, I've not touched it since the thread was going as I didn't want to strip it further. Might be time for another pass.
I can't believe that no NorCal member likes beer enough to stop by and make this a team project
Parts Guy is right, but make sure you get a t-30 Torx head... I ended up using something more like this:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...41-56766-52003
as I wasn't sure the size I needed at the time. Just remember to really put inward pressure on the head and try to make sure it is as flat/flush to the head as possible. The angle you're working at makes it really hard to know if you are straight into the head or not. I also tried to put some pressure against the shaft of the tool to better grip my slightly stripped bolt head... hard to explain. I slowly built pressure on the rotation and it finally popped loose. Best of luck!
I am up for a team project... but it would require you to drive down to San Jose where my tools are.
I have the Torx hardware to do this and a Durametric programmer to check and clear fault codes if needed.
David (who is more of a red wine guy than beer guy)
