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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSpark Plug Tube Removal Tool - Coming Soon
Leading reported evidence
Replace valve cover and cam cover
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
they changed the valve cover and cam cover to incorporate an aluminum hole that is sealed on the ends, not around the tube.
Leading evidence: 'Replace valve cover and cam cover' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair shop' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The basic idea is to push the plunger into the tube, flip the cam lock, and used the lever to pop it out.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
One is a button that is very important and our great leaders used plastic which is really disapointing for an internal engine part.
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Suggestion · Original poster
If I come up with something I will contact you first........more in line with your products than the average OEM user/repair shop
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39 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T152433Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have been working on a tool to remove the spark plug tubes on the early 3.4's. Anyone who had tackled this job knows its a PITA and I came up with a perliminary design we are testing this week. I have no doubt it will need a few changes, but at this point its looking pretty good....
Once completed I will make a handful of them and have them cleaned up / anodized and for sale.. trying to keep them below $40/shipped
The basic idea is to push the plunger into the tube, flip the cam lock, and used the lever to pop it out. If it works, each tube will take about 5-10 seconds to remove....
Here are some pics of the first stab - more tools to come, if you have requests, let me know - I might come up with something
3.6 doesnt have that part at all? Boxster/Cayman either ??
they changed the valve cover and cam cover to incorporate an aluminum hole that is sealed on the ends, not around the tube. Its quite differant - actually if the later ones leak its a harder job because you have to pull the valve cover to get to the seals... and you cant just "pop" out the one that leaks and move on... though they are a better design and might leak less???
Nice work.
A tool created by the person who needs it/uses it -- is typically more elegant than one created by someone who just wanted to engineer one.
OK...think big corporate. You need some part on it, like razor blades, that people need to keep buying from you.
Er....ok....don't think big corporate.
I have seen the shadetree tools... that is why I am making this tool
It will be cost effective, and of the quality and thoughtfulness that a Porsche shop would look for in a tool.....
Now those shops up in Elk Snort might like the tap jammed in the hole, but that aint the way we do it here in the big city, thanks for the comment.
On a side not, tonight I was helping/watching build a 3.6 crank craddle and install connecting rods. What a great experience! LME makes some really cool parts and I wont spoil thier ideas, but I will say, they are tackling the parts inside the motors that you just would not believe. One is a button that is very important and our great leaders used plastic which is really disapointing for an internal engine part. LNE has a fix for it, and it was easy to see they have really "been there, done that" on so many levels...we are going to be hearing more from them in the future I believe
Good work guys! (you know that part I am speaking of)
I am thinkling of a better way to measure the new connecting rod cap bolts... If I come up with something I will contact you first........more in line with your products than the average OEM user/repair shop
Looks good Ed.... sign me up.! If you know the specs on other Porsche models.... All you need are diff rubbers sizes, no? and diff cams and.... nevermind.
there hasnt been a 3.4 in the shop to test it on... I am certain it needs a little tweeking, but no one is in for service
I am ready to make them, just need verification....
BTW once made I will be offering the Ed Mitchell seal of approval with each tool.... if it doesnt work like I said it would... I will eat it........literally
try 1 was a failure, I have a secone attemt coming soon. The mechanic said in his opinion it was easier to cut the tube in 1/2 and just replace it. I wasnt there to see the operation
but have a second gen tool in work - no change in overall cost (if it works) just a change in the amount of grip and the depth of the grip. Also a change in the puller length for added leverage.
keeping it real, keeping you posted -
On a side note, I got to spend a little more time on the 3.6 (now 3.8) motor rebuild. It is the first in the area and I feel very happy to be apart (at least to watch and ask questions) the build. LNE's new case is very impressive, the machine work is excellent and the parts they are upgrading are very well engineered. (from IMO poorly designed ones the bean counters forced Porsche to use on the cars)
Folks, I just did my spark plug tubes.
I first tried a tansom plug, that was a pain in the ****. After the 2nd tube the transom plug was shot. The only way I could get the first tubes out was tighten the plug down as much as possible.
I couldn't get the 3rd tube out and gave up.
After looking at this thread I saw the idea of using the tap, so that gave me the idea of looking for just a piece of pipe from the home depot. I found the 3/4" threaded pipe nipples worked perfectly. I got 1 2" nipple, 1 1" nipple and 1 tee.
The 3/4" threaded pipe screws into the tube easily and then you can use tee to get some leverage. On the tube on the drivers side closest to the interior you might want to try the 2" nipple and a 3/4 cap, then pry with a screwdriver.
All together I spent $5 on the 3 pieces.
I'm just going through this frustration, my transom plug got the first tube out but was shot trying to get the second one out, the thread on the bottom washer must have stripped from just one tube....
sghokie, do you mind taking a couple of pix of your idea please? I think I will go your route or a 1"+ a bit dia. tap, BTW the diameter of the top hole is 1.025" but the lower hole is only 0.946" so it tapers somewhat from top to bottom.
Which would cost hundred thousand dollars plus for an item like this, if it even has any elements that can be patented. Probably not worth the investment in lawyers and the years it would take.
Am I missing something here. I don't see any pics of the 'first stab' at the project.
That being said, if your tool comes out as a working tool and the fact that I have a 99 job, then put me down for one. Thanks.
Bought a couple of pieces of items from Home Depot, cost me grand total of $2.00 tax in.
Will try it out tonight and provide pix if this solution proves to be successful.
Metal coat hanger might do the job. You need about 10 cm length. and bend the ending a little bit. Put it in the thing should expand and pull out tubes. I found my tubes to be really easy to take out, you could do it with finger pressure.
This is my version of the tool, works real good, easy to use, no cam or fighting with slipping rubber boat-plug, cheap, no fuss, idiot-proof!
https://rennlist.com/forums/9659480-post7.html
Great idea although I just tackled this job myself and spent $2.99 on a boat transom plug to pull the spark plug tubes. Worked perfectly and I saved hundreds over the factory tool. Very simple solution. Nothing more is needed...
I really don't know how you guys got the boat plug to work, maybe I'm doing it wrong, the one I bought worked for the first tube and the threads started to foul and the rubber started to slip on the second oil tube, which is when I had to stop the work until I figured out my tool.
all good ideas. Here's another one...you may have one of these laying around the house. 3/4" male x socket PVC adapter.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-change-2.html
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