39 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHorn Honks when Brakes Applied
Reported or suspected cause
most likely the oil pressure sending unit
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
The oil pressure issue is most likely the oil pressure sending unit.
Leading evidence: 'most likely the oil pressure sending unit' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'most likely the oil pressure sending unit' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace clock spring, easy job' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a few strategically placed pieces of cardboard to prevent mine from accidentally honking, lol......
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
The oil pressure issue is most likely the oil pressure sending unit.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
The horn issue is most likely a worn/damaged clock spring in the steering wheel.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
39 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I tried the "fix it with silicone" trick first, and it worked for ****.
2000 C2. 103K. Been a great car. Owned since basically new (5K miles). Two issues recently.
First, oil pressure reads max when ever the key is on. Even if the engine is not running. Sounds like bad wiring or sensor, right? Obviously, I checked the oil, and its fine (reasonably new and adequate in amount.)
Second, when I apply the brakes, the horn honks. Started gradually and occurred only in hard braking. Now, it happens with virtually all braking. If stopped, and you apply or pump the brake, it does not happen, but if the car is moving, any real brake pressure, the horn honks. Doesn't bother me, but other drivers and my neighbors are less than pleased.
Any idea on that issue? I'm thinking I have some wiring that has rubbed thru and as the car changes speed rapidly, the wiring is shorting. But thats just a wild guess.
Many thanks in advance.
The oil pressure issue is most likely the oil pressure sending unit. It's a common problem and very easy to fix yourself (just do a search for oil pressure sender).
The horn issue is most likely a worn/damaged clock spring in the steering wheel. Does it still do it if you downshift to slow the car? This is also a fairly easy fix, but you need a special tool to remove the steering wheel.
Thanks. Don't know about the downshifting causing the horn to honk. I will test that shortly.
I was actually telling my wife a month or so ago that it seemed strange that people keep honking at me when I was in that car. So, it was a while before I even figured out that it was my car honking.
And, to think, I have come screaming up to 100's of traffic control devices, honked my own horn repeatedly on the approach/braking, and then flipped off untold numbers of innocent drivers who are looking at me thinking: why is that guy honking?
You do not need a special tool to remove the steering wheel, all you need is a 24mm(I think) socket and a torx for the airbag. I replaced my clock spring, easy job.
no, but you might need an extra pair of hand to loosen the big nut. One holds the wheel the other loosens the nut.... do not use the wheel lock as you will break the lock pin.
I did it with one hand. Oh, wait, that was another nut I busted.
Seriously, it's pretty easy. Make sure you wait for a minute or two after you detach the battery cables to prevent premature airbag deployment. I tried the "fix it with silicone" trick first, and it worked for ****. Just order the part for ~$125.
I'm telling ya, I have had about 4 pieces of cardboard wedged in gap between horn & steering wheel for over a year now.....have not had a problem since.
Laugh all you want, but it works, & took all of about 45 seconds....
ZX - just basically jam some cardboard shims into the gap all around the horn "button"? If thats right, and the horn still works, that sounds like the ideal plan for me.
After all, once you pass 100K miles, cardboard becomes Porsche Certified and N-Spec. Or is that only on Boxsters and those minivans they build? I forget.
Thanks again guys.
What part are you referring to? The airbag retaining frame?
I was going to do the silicone fix on mine but after reading your post(as well as others who had trouble with the silicone fix) I may just go the new parts route.
Until then, as I mentioned above, I pulled the fuse for the horn.
If by "button" you mean the outer pad on the sterring wheel, then yes.
I figure the spring gets weak & when one hits the brakes it causes the pad to go forward
& allows the contacts to touch.
The cardboard keeps them apart, but still allows you to use the horn by pushing it.
*The horn "spring" is actually four molded rubber centers that mount and isolate the airbag frame (horn contact). They deteriorate over time and the horn makes contact when you brake.
The clock spring is a flat cable wound up in a container sandwiched behind the steering wheel that connects the rotating part of the airbag-grenade explosive device and any other steering wheel mounted functions, Tiptronic, radio, horn contacts, etc... with the stationary part of the column.
*like this pic from Pelican catalog:
993-347-088-01-M100
Holy cow, that is the funniest **** I've heard all day! I am sorry that you are having a problem with your car, but the horn blowing every time that you step on the brakes! Does it do it in traffic?
I bet it is a stupid problem that is relatively easy to fix... let us know what it was so that we know how to resolve it as well.
Good luck and keep us posted.
LOL... Hey you just reminded me about my 1/2 *** fix to my horn button that has been in place for 2 + years now.
I totally forgot I was going to buy the plate and fix this. But for a quick fix 2 years ago I just cut some rubber fuel line to fit between the wheel and the horn plate... LOL.. been working great. I may just leave it now.