ignition Switch vs Lock Mechanism

Have had a problem with my ignition switch as previously posted. Key turned too far clockwise and AC would not work. Turn key back slightly and all worked fine. Tried the DIY but failed miserably. Indy wants to replace the entire lock mechanism...not just the switch. Thoughts?

I believe the lock mechanism is only responsible for the contact that lets you know your key is still in the ignition (keeps the radio on until you pull the key out, may sound a chime if you open the door with the key still in the ignition), steering wheel lock when the key is out, and of course not letting keys with the wrong cut turn in the ignition. Every other function is the responsibility of the electrical switch portion. So if your key is turning in the ignition fine, your steering wheel lock works, and your car doesn't think the key is in it when it's not, I don't see why you'd need to replace the entire lock mechanism.

I had the same issue, replaced just the switch, fixed.

Thanks guys. It's covered under warranty but your opinions are the same as everything i have read. I recall some "fix" Porsche recommended that involved more than the switch. I wonder if that is what they are doing?

So many switches failed that Porsche discontinued switch availability and recommends installing an "updated" switch that includes the whole switch/steering wheel lock a$$y. That is all that Porsche offers now. The old switch is still available for prices ranging from ~$14.00-$100 from Audi, VW, NAPA, EBay etc. The new Porsche recommended switch assys (~$300+ installation) have had some failures also. Most folks just replace the ign switch. (unless it is under warranty) Lots of DIYs (many claiming ~45 min or less first time and much quicker if they have to repeat again. Here is one there are many: http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/P...tionswitch.htm

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This man is correct. For those of us not lucky enough to be covered by a warranty, it makes sense to keep replacing $30 switches every once in a while compared to doing the big "upgrade". DIY difficulty is a 3/10 - maybe 4/10 if you're big and inflexible like me which makes it difficult to cram into the footwell. I should mention too that I replaced my switch 3 years and 40K miles ago and it's still working fine. The issue I was having was that my key would not pull out of the lock. I was quite surprised when replacing the plastic electrical switch totally solved the problem.

Why bother with the pissy switch, just change the complete mechanism. That's what I did, it isn't hard, it cost $130 from Sonnen Porsche and it will probably last the life of the car. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3395412

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Yeah, easy job but my back was tweaked for 3 days after doing it!

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They also have failed and the switch replacements are harder to get. If you have replaced the whole assy please put that info in your owners manual so the next poor victim doesn't go crazier trying to figure out why 4A090 5849B doesn't fit.

Went ahead and replaced the whole mechanism since it was a warranted item. If this repair was not under warranty, and I could have done the DIY on just the switch, I would definitely have gone that route. Thanks for all the replies!

Is the ignition switch or the lock mechanism responsible for the action (assuming a spring of some sort) that returns the key to run position after you start it? When I started the car this weekend there was a pop noise from the key mechanism and now I have to manually turn the key back when I start the car. Also, when I remove the key from the ignition I have to tap the ignition to get the car to turn off the radio.

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The switch contains the spring which snaps the switch and lock mechanism back to the run position(or the "off" position when the key is removed). When you have a sticky(hard to turn) lock mechanism it eventually wears out the spring and the spring will eventually be unable to snap the lock mechanism back to the "off" position. This happened to me a couple of years ago and when this happens you cannot put the key back into the ignition because the spring fails(does not have enough strength) and will not snap the switch back to the off position. Luckily, when mine finally failed I was parked in my garage and not out somewhere. I only changed the switch on my car and my lock mechanism is still very stiff so it will eventually wear out my spring again. I can tell my switch is going bad again because it usually takes a couple of seconds(longer when it's cold outside) for the switch to snap back after I remove the key. Has anyone tried a lock lubricant with any success for a sticky 996 ignition???

AHHH the great switch debate. 1. 14$ switch is a good DIY if you can stand on your head for 5 minutes and have eyeballs on your finger tips 2. bad swicth can make all sort of issues a. sticky mechanism not let go of key b. radio stays on when key is removed c. ac stays on after key is removed d. impossible to remove key if u procrastinate with replacement start with cheap part... if cheap part no worky then go to entire mechanism. switch cured all of the above for me. And yes im big, unflexible and no mutant eyeballs on fingers but still swapped switch in 20 min.

I'm going to snag a switch on the way home and pop it in. Looking in other threads it looks like the switch will fix the issue.

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But you will need a chiropractor.

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I originally tried just replacing the switch. I am waaaaay too claustaphobic for that job! Someone who has successfully done it might want to give a tip on getting that screw that faces the front of the car undone!

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and a headband light

Hmm. I just replaced the switch on Saturday. Took me like 20 minutes. Not sure what everyone is complaining about. It wasn't that hard. The key was to use a tiny flathead screwdriver bit. Just the bit. Here's the DIY I used: Linky

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You must be a contortionist , I did the switch a while back, it was not a difficult job but it was an uncomfortable one!

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+1....I also used the headlight band......30 minute job.......it was a PITA for a 6'3" guy like me....hanging upside down on the drivers seat, head in the footwell and feet in the back seat.....

I'm 6'4" and if it's anything like swapping out the assist spring for the clutch, it won't be comfortable, but I'll be able to handle it.

Just like swapping the assist spring, they are right next to each other. You have to remove the exact same AC duct as well. There are only 2 flatblade screws under some dried up red "locking" paint that flicks off very easily with the screw driver blade. Any small shafted "tweaker" screw driver will work, but not those convertable, flip around ones that vendors hand out all the time. A real one, like a Craftsman, that has a small thin shaft and small blade. The electrical connector pulls straight off, loosen the 2 screws, so a few threads show, but do not remove them and the switch pulls right out. My key was actually stuck in the ignition and would not come out no matter what I tried, but once I pulled off the switch, I was easily able to turn the key to off and it came out easily like it normally would. Then I installed the URO switch for $19 (free and super fast shipping, got mine in 4 days) from ebay, and was done in no time and works just like it was new. I can't figure out how it affects the key so bad, but it does. By far the hardest part is removing and re-installing the AC duct without breaking anything in that tight small area. If your key gets stuck like mine, remember to put the seat all the way back and down before you pull the battery negative to work on it. I pulled the negative because the damn chiming was driving me crazy while I had my head under the dash!

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I just moved down to Maryland last week. My car was shipped down and on my first drive my ignition is suffering the same symtoms many have described and my AC wouldn't turn on (and the fan speed jumped up and down on its own). I want to go after the shipping company for the repair 'cause i don't have the time for a DIY, as i'm a total rookie. They won't likely own up and I'll be stuck. Can anyone point me to some more helpful links (tips and tricks) that will really make this a 20 min job, like the tip for the "tweaker" screwdriver that, without it, makes the job impossible or adds an hour long trip to Sears? And what is a tweaker screwdriver? Thanks in advance

Look at post # 18 for a picture of the screwdriver I used, and a link to a DIY. Oh, and though I'm not a contortionist, I am pretty flexible. Also, I'm a skinny 5' 8", so I guess that helps.

I loved these threads; I had a switch that was going bad, and I made it worse by adding lubricant until I could no longer remove the key. Got the $12 part from NAPA (made in China but don't tell anyone) and once I figured out what I was trying to do wasn't too hard. One trick that may help others is that I wanted to get the clutch pedal depressed to leave more room to work. I noticed the steering column down near the floor, just above the splines, has a sort of "groove" about 1/2" wide, just wide enough to loop a tight large-size Ziptie. To this I tied a 2nd ziptie and was able to lock the pedal down to the floor. Holding the clutch pedal down. These zip ties are the largest that Harbor Freight sells

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IDK how you guys are doing it in 15-20 minutes?! Ive spent almost 2 hours already, because the closest screw it pretty tight and i can't get it rotated even a bit. The other one though, was easy to unscrew. Update: I sprayed a bit of WD40 and tried more and more and finally unscrewed it! You really need to have strong fingers to unscrew that thing haha

another update: now the key won't turn at all??! Whats wrong? 3rd and last update for today.. Had to take the ignition switch out and match/rotate the hole in the back with my old switch. Assembled again, trying to start, cluster panel lights turn on... and nothing happens. No click, nothing... Any ideas please??? Thank you.

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The trick is to also remove the vent to the left of the steering wheel, the way you can come in at the hidden set screw from the top left (and not be contorted into a pretzel under the dash) rather than from the bottom right.

I had a non Indy, Korean (?small agile small handed) Ultratune mechanic (francise holder), recognise, fix mine switch swap alone. I the Indy I use - Family run Porsche specialist I use, is 5 hours plus away.. So far I've only needed the Official dealer 20 min away for parts.